Garmin Montana

Discussion in 'Mapping & Navigation' started by AugustFalcon, May 18, 2011.

  1. CSpringsRider

    CSpringsRider Been here awhile

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    Wired up the AMPS mount with an SAE plug. Like VTbeemer, I plan to use the setup on multiple bikes.

    Question for the group related to using the AMPS mount connected to an SAE plug. The SAE plugs are for charging the battery so it is not a switched connection to the electrical system; in other words, it is always powered. Do I need to worry about: a) frying the Montana if I have the device in the mount when starting the bike, or b) running the bike's battery down if I leave the Montana in the mount when I stop for a break?
  2. Rocky TFS

    Rocky TFS Been here awhile

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    No, being wired direct to the battery, the Montana will not see the spike. The Montana uses very little power, you could leave it on overnight if you had no other draw and a decently healthy battery.

    How are things in the Springs? :clap I went to CC many years ago, had some really cool experiences riding and flying around the area.
  3. Yossarian™

    Yossarian™ Deputy Cultural Attaché

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    I use this same setup. Only once have I had an issue, when the Montana got left on overnight and drew down a battery.
  4. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b

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    No matter if a device is wired directly or wired through the ignition switch, the device will be powered when you turn on the ignition before starting the bike. (Perhaps BMW or some CANbus bikes wait for the engine to start before powering on unnecessary circuits? Some bikes keep the headlights off until the engine is running.)

    But then I don't know of bikes that cause a positive voltage spike. The bikes I've ridden have a battery voltage sag when starting and it takes a couple seconds for the voltage to climb to 14V (charging voltage).

    I have had no trouble with the Montana draining the battery on the direct-wired bike even though it has a very small battery.
  5. CavReconSGT

    CavReconSGT Just the right amount of evil.

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    I use a PDM60 to power all my accessories (Montana GPS, InReach, Bluetooth transmitter). It has adjustable current and turn on and turn off select-able times as well as what triggers it. I do not like parasitic drains on my battery. Even small ones. Ask me why?

    Standard disclaimer. I am not associated with the makers of the PDM60, just a happy user for two years now.

    KR
  6. wbbnm

    wbbnm Long timer

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    I strongly recommend not leaving the Montana on the bike for too many nights. The unit does draw current when connected to power even when turned off and the batteries are fully charged. I try to remember to take mine off each night. This isn't hard because I usually want to go over the tracks for the day in the evenings.

    As I understand it the main function of a fuse is to protect the wiring harness on the bike in case of a short downstream of the battery. Thus the main function of the Amps fuse is to protect the harness from a short in the run between the fuse and the unit/mount. The only protection it provides to the GPS unit would be from a massive overvoltage from somewhere that I can't imagine.
  7. SteveAZ

    SteveAZ Long timer

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    +1

    I measured the draw and posted a while back but here it is again:

    Current measurements during and after charging - all at 13.9V in rugged mount (not the auto mount with the speaker)...

    Unit on, display 100% backlight, 30% charged: 414mA
    Makes no difference if the unit is on or off when the backlight is at 0% as long as when it's "off" the charge indicator shows (30% charged): 278mA

    Unit on, display 100% backlight, 100% charged: 192mA
    Backlight 0%, 100% charged unit on or "off" with charge indicator showing 100% charged: 72mA

    Unit in the mount but "off" with nothing on the display (makes no difference if it's charged or not): 46mA

    So about 140mA for display at 100%, 200-225ma for charging a low battery, negligible draw for the difference between the unit on or "off" with the charge indicator in the display and 46ma just to sit in the mount...
    A fuse has one and only one purpose - to prevent fires. Did you all realize that the National Electrical Code (which among many other things like proper wire size specifies proper over-current protection - fuses, circuit breakers...) is part of the National Fire Codes series published by the National Fire Protection Association? The fuse should be sized so that anything downstream can handle the fuse current and rule-of-thumb is no less than 68% the working current. The other primary factor is a bit more complicated - it is the I^2t rating and has to do with peak and inrush currents (this is related to "slow-blow" and "fast-blow")...
    Szepy likes this.
  8. CSpringsRider

    CSpringsRider Been here awhile

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    I have another question because I could not find an answer using Google.

    The output for a Garmin car charger (mini USB) is 5 volts at 1 amp. With my AMPS mount connected to the SAE plug, I am seeing 12.7 volts at the appropriate pin (as I would expect). Does the Montana have an internal converter to drop the voltage to 5 volts?
    Rocky TFS - We are loving life here in the Springs. Have had an unusually warm fall so my wife and I have been riding the dirt bikes, dual sports and mountain bikes since skiing has not been a good option. Temps are now below freezing and look like they will be colder than they have been so the dirt bike rides in Divide and motorcycle rides west of town are probably done for the season.
  9. CSpringsRider

    CSpringsRider Been here awhile

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    Rocky TFS, Yossarian, Grinnin, CavReconSGT, wbbnm, SteveAZ - Thank you for all the well informed responses. Folks like you are why I love the forums I participate in.
  10. CavReconSGT

    CavReconSGT Just the right amount of evil.

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    Yes it does. I have added a dc to dc converter to use to power my AMPS mount.

    EDIT: What I wrote above is incorrect. I was thinking of my Delorme mount for my inReach. The Garmin AMPS mount does take direct 12V DC.

    KR
  11. CSpringsRider

    CSpringsRider Been here awhile

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    Thank you. I just looked up the PDM60 since I had never heard of it before. It looks like a really good solution for switched power; I have been wanting to add some protected, switched power on the Tenere but there is almost no installation "real estate" available on the ES version. All the space under the seat is taken up by the electronic suspension. The PDM60 might be the solution I was looking for.
  12. CavReconSGT

    CavReconSGT Just the right amount of evil.

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    I have a similar problem on the F700GS. I wound up placing it between the battery and the frame.

    KR
  13. wbbnm

    wbbnm Long timer

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    I always get my switched power from the wiring mess behind the headlight. I normally tap into the taillight wire or the input power to the turn signal switch.

    I have no qualms about stripping away insulation from the middle of a wire and soldering another wire to that and taping it up good.

    But my KTM 690 came with aux leads for both switched and unswitched power. This was nice.
  14. CavReconSGT

    CavReconSGT Just the right amount of evil.

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    In order to tell the PDM60 to turn on switched items. I use the switched wire that goes to the accessory plug on the F700GS.

    And to tap, I use these:
    https://www.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Con...rd_wg=qLqvp&psc=1&refRID=3CCMXDYJC07K6XT0AFGG

    KR
  15. Emoto

    Emoto Sure, why not?

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    The PDM60 is an expensive solution. You can have an inexpensive fuse panel like this for under $40, and then put a relay on the + side tied to switched power, so anything run off of your fuse box will only be powered when the key is on. You could also choose to run only half of the fuse box with a relay, so the other side would be on all the time, if you want. Simple.
    [​IMG]
  16. guavadude

    guavadude Dirt Nap Enthusiast

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    The Fuzeblock is good hub too and you can easily change from switched to unswitched by just moving the fuse location. Relay is built in.
  17. CavReconSGT

    CavReconSGT Just the right amount of evil.

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    I originally installed a Denali Powerhub. Once I realized that I was only carrying fuses for that, I decided to use the PDM60. Nothing wrong with the fuse panels. Just didn't want the keeping track and ability to run out of fuses and keeping the right sizes. The PDM also doesn't turn on the other gear until an adustable set time has passed so it reduces the load while cranking and can stay on a adjustable amount of time after the bike has been switched off. It does other things also but again, 6 of one half dozen of another as far as the actual protection.

    KR
  18. CSpringsRider

    CSpringsRider Been here awhile

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    Emoto - Thanks for the description of another option. I liked the PDM60 because of the ability to not power a circuit until the bike was powered for a period of time but am not sure that is an essential feature. I definitely would like to be able to ensure that none of the added circuits are powered unless the key is on. I understand how to wire the panel directly so power is on all the time; any suggestions to a site that describes adding the relay so that I can provide switched power? I found a couple that describe the process but if you have a strong recommendation for one, I am interested in hearing it. I am also challenged by the fact that the Tenere ES model has very little real estate to mount a fuse block. I'll probably end up removing the stock toolkit and using that space for the block.
  19. wbbnm

    wbbnm Long timer

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    If you end up with the fuse block very far from the battery, you should consider putting a fuse in the wire to the fuse block. Especially if there is any chance of the wire chafing on something.
  20. Emoto

    Emoto Sure, why not?

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    I think the PDM is a fine thing, it is just kind of expensive. Nothing wrong with it that I know of.

    I don't really have a site to recommend. Oh wait, this is a good site, run by one of the guys who posts here, whose name I can't recall (which irritates me because he's a really good guy): http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/relay.html But... this is pretty simple. You just substitute the fuse box for whatever the relay diagram has (driving lights, etc.).

    1. The 86 wire gets attached to anything that only has power when the key is on, like the tail light running light wire, for example, instead of a switch.
    2. the 87 goes to the power terminal (+) of the fusebox
    3. the 30 goes to the positive side of the battery (+)
    4. the 85 side goes to ground.

    [​IMG]
    CSpringsRider and BruceWA like this.