Garmin Zumo 590 Cradle butchery - The How-To

Discussion in 'Mapping & Navigation' started by blender, May 9, 2014.

  1. BBohemian

    BBohemian Adventurer

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    Has anybody tried to keep the USB charging port there and chuck just the audio cables? I ordered the second cradle for my designated "dirt & DS" bike and because that bike doesn't have an electric outlet I'm hoping to keep the USB intact - I use it quite a bit on my GS to charge the phone (owned the 590 for happy 2 years by now)... ?
    #61
  2. toy4fun

    toy4fun GET out of the way

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    This makes me feel bad...I just cut the cable a few inches from the cradle and hooked up the hot and ground leds, topped off with a nasty gram to Garmin!:lol3
    #62
  3. BBohemian

    BBohemian Adventurer

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    Thanks for posting this how to but, word of caution on using T5... my second cradle that I just got ($21 shipped - thank you, eBay!) uses T6 screws, I almost stripped the first one before realizing it.
    #63
  4. dpike

    dpike Been here awhile

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    i picked up a second cable to do just this and snip the audio cables. i haven't figured out if i'm going to just cut the cables at the end of the rubber separator block and seal the ends with black liquid tape or if i'm going to seal off each wire. my concern would be if i don't separate and seal off then ends of each wire from the cut audio cables that a cross connection would interfere with bluetooth audio being used.
    #64
  5. Cavi

    Cavi Been here awhile

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    why not open up the cradle and cut them at the main connector, then snip wherever you want?
    #65
  6. BBohemian

    BBohemian Adventurer

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    This may help with your decision, I think the USB wires are those 4 on furhest right (black, green, white and red).

    IMG_1971.JPG

    Regretfully, I cut them all before realizing it and when I spliced black and red to the harness power connection cables (also black and red) inbetween the GPS unit and the fuze, my iPhone is not powering. Somewhere I read the data wires (green and white) must be powered up as well. My dilemma is now between opening the case up again and somehow try repairing the severed connection or trying to splice the green and white to red and black just to power it up. I mean I do not need to transfer any data, I just would like to charge my phone. But, I worry that I may fry my phone if I just splice it all together because i think I would be getting 12V directly to my phone - I suspect the separate plug for Audio & USB was getting reduced voltage from the GPS unit to 5V... I did some search online but to no avail to confirm this theory...
    #66
  7. dpike

    dpike Been here awhile

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    thanks.
    so ideally if i was going to do that i'd cut the ends of the cable at the audio connectors, expose the wires, open the cradle, disconnect this plug, then check continuity at this plug on each wire and at the cut ends of the audio connectors, THEN snip those wires at the plug.

    ... sounds a lot longer than it would probably take.
    #67
  8. BBohemian

    BBohemian Adventurer

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    Not in the long run - considering my current situation... :baldy

    This is what the inside of the cable look like before the plastic splitting block. Audio cables are those loose ones, USB is in silver mash looking grid and the power supply wires are in the aluminum looking foil. All wrapped up in parchment paper. If u try to pull all of it at once, it is going to be extremely difficult. However, if u pull the wires individually you can keep much longer portion of the main harnes undisturbed.


    IMG_1992.JPG IMG_1991.JPG
    #68
  9. facablade

    facablade Been here awhile

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    Code for conector to buy one please

    Enviado desde mi GT-I9195 mediante Tapatalk
    #69
  10. BBohemian

    BBohemian Adventurer

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    +1 on the audio & USB connector.
    #70
  11. dpike

    dpike Been here awhile

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    Easy enough to do. I cut the audio and mic cables, matched the color inside the cradle, cut them at the block in the cradle, then cut them flush at the rubber splitter thing. The power cord I'll cut down as needed and the long USB cord I'm sure will be a blessing some day. Took all of 10 minutes.

    *edit*
    added a couple pictures
    mic and audio wires
    [​IMG]

    block with full wires
    [​IMG]

    mic and audio wires cut and pins removed.
    [​IMG]
    #71
  12. Alheng

    Alheng n00b

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    Warning rambling post about the Zumo 590/95 cradle. Some of you long distance riders may find this useful.

    Had some time on my hands today and decided to make the Zumo 590/95 cradle movable between bikes and did the the harness hack. I won't go into detail here as there is alot about it on the net, but I did stumbled upon one post saying that if the original harness is used to power a smartphone, the hotspot feature on the phone does not need to be on for the GPS to get live updates. That was news to me so I decided to try it and yes it was correct, so I wanted to save the original USB on the harness as not having the hotspot feature on saves the phone battery if you forget to turn it off when you get off the bike. I did however want to make it much shorter instead of having coils of wire to lug between bikes.

    I carefully hacked away at the harness where the head phone, mic and intercom connections came out, to identify those colour codes.

    In the back of the cradle the first four cables on the long connector - black, green, white and red are for the USB cable, all the rest are not required if you don't intend to use hard wired speakers or mics.

    But when I started cutting the wire to make everything shorter, I noticed on the USB plug side there were 5 wires! White, green, red, black and yellow! I went back into the bin where I had tossed the bits I cut off and found out that the wires did not run straight thru but were joined. So here is the heads up, the black wire on the long connector, joins to the yellow wire in the USB plug

    I did a test solder leaving out the black wire from the USB plug and the USB plug didn't work. Then I connected the black wire to the 12v negative line and BINGO! It all came alive and the smartlink booted right up without turning on the hotspot!

    Note that the cig plug is straight 12v and not one of the step down to USB voltage units, the one I used was a spare Sena plug with the USB board removed. I like it because it has a changeable fuse in it.

    Soldered the lot up and now have a cradle that I can move between all my bikes.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    #72
  13. Xoliul

    Xoliul Been here awhile

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    I did this for a 660 mount, for my BMW Nav V. 3D printing a replacement turned out much cleaner than hacking up the old backplate, as I use my own interchangeable wiring harness.
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2010947

    Good illustration of the use of having a 3D printer :)
    #73
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  14. Barry

    Barry Just Beastly

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    Oops... Disregard.
    #74
  15. Siff

    Siff n00b

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    So I'm looking at these and pondering my dilemma. My old 550 had an audio out right at the unit and I could just hook up my earphones right there. Looking at this mess, I'd like to create my own 595LM power / audio out cable with the audio out plug right up near the unit. I'll attach a powerlet type plug and bounce it between different bikes when needed. I've butchered cables before and even created my own stereo plug attachment for a radio to my helmet earphones. Frankensteining is just fine with me.

    However.....

    Does anyone know which of those pretty wires at the long connector are associated with the audio out? Don't really care about the mic or USB but wouldn't mind knowing which is which. A detailed wiring diagram for all the "pins" would be great.

    Your "hacked" expertise and insight would be much appreciated....

    Siff
    #75
  16. Siff

    Siff n00b

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    #76
  17. Barry

    Barry Just Beastly

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    I'm not clear on exactly what you are joining the USB wire to, or why. I do not need a hot spot function, just need power to the cradle, and power to USB port for phone charging. Like in your bottom pic.

    I'm not tracking with you when you reference the black wire from the USB to the 12v negative line. Do you mean the black wire is a ground for the USB you soldiered it to the ground wire for the hardness?

    Reading the above bold/italic text it seems you are talking about more than 2 wires...

    I am EXTREMELY unsure of electrical wiring, etc. Apologies if I am asking really basic questions.

    Barry
    #77
  18. sudolea

    sudolea n00b

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    Looking for the source of the traffic of a video I made last year, I came onto this site here, which seems to generate a fair lot of all of it's hits. More specifically, I'm talking about this thread's mentioned video of mine : . Glad it could help other fellow-bikers.

    Reading the full thread, I think it isn't fully clear here that I also included a parts list in my video. That information seems somewhat obscured by having shown it embedded in here. So I think it may help other people if they'd have a look at the description of the original video, where also the parts list can be found. I may repeat myself, but for completeness sake, let me add it here too. I just re-checked the links, and these links still work, so these parts can still be ordered online where I had bought them when making my own removable support - I don't have any shares at Conrad ;-)

    cable : http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/739653/Content-1-pcs
    connector : http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/546821/Pre-fab-braid-Contact-spacing-2-mm-1-pcs
    anti-kink : http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product...HV2228-PVC-BK-D1-Anti-kink-System-Black-11-mm

    P.S. The English terminology might be somewhat cripple, especially the "anti-kink" (?); the original version is in Flemish (= Belgian Dutch) indeed :-)
    #78
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  19. sudolea

    sudolea n00b

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    I have a male audio in connector available here. There are 3 metal parts on it. I don't know for sure if there are maybe more needed to make use of all available pins in the Zümo's mount's audio output ? In case your question still needs to be answered : as I have the original cable loom still available, and IF there are indeed ONLY these 3 pins needed - please confirm -, I can measure (resistance-ohm) which little wires on the Zümo's cable loom connect to which of the 3 audio out pins... (within a week from now, as I'm not at home for a week from now).
    #79
  20. Renny202

    Renny202 Adventurer

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    +1 I just bought a 590 and wish the cradle and power cord would 'detach' so I didn't have to buy 2 cradles for 2 bikes. Ugh. Also, I only want power too, don't need all the other attachments for sound etc.
    #80