Go Sportsters

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by Bloodweiser, Dec 20, 2010.

  1. Randy

    Randy Long timer

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    Thanks for clearing that up for me. I believe that it was in the "7 pages of suspension" that I read about the 13.5" shock limit. And it sounds as if that may be accurate, without modification. I guess the thing to do will be to lift the bike, remove the shocks, and move the swingarm to various positions to check for interference problems at the max extension allowed by the different shock lengths. I'll look at the rear brake master cylinder arrangement too, and see if I can visualize what you did to correct it. I do plan to raise the front at the same time on mine, as well as get a longer "jiffy" stand.

    That reminds me... Where did the term "jiffy stand" come from? I'd never encountered it until entering the H-D world a few months ago. Side stand, kick stand, and a couple other terms that I forget atm, yeah, but, never heard of a "jiffy stand" before.

    :1drink
  2. hhkiwi

    hhkiwi Been here awhile

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    OK, below's a photo of my setup. The rear shocks measure exactly 15" center of bolt to center of bolt with no load on the bike. In that state, the drive belt just rests on the rear master cylinder (which has not been modified). As soon as I sit on the bike, there's plenty of clearance between the belt and the master cylinder, looks like 1/2" or more. The bike has now done 6500 miles and the belt is still the original belt and shows no signs of wear.

    Cornering clearance is beyond my capabilities and probably beyond the stock tire's capabilities...

    So don't worry too much about 13.5" vs. 14.25" - you'll be fine. Remember though that you can't use the stock specs for belt tension with longer shocks. The belt needs to be very slack because it will tension when you get on the bike.

    [​IMG]
  3. Randy

    Randy Long timer

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    Hmmm... More conflicting info... I'd rather have plenty of clearance since I don't want to chance belt contact at times when the rear suspension tops out and goes to full extension while riding. Plus, when you run the belt loose the bottom run isn't under tension and can oscillate up and down a bit with various throttle inputs. But, if you're not having issues with 15" shocks then I wouldn't think the 360mm Ohlins would present a problem either since they are actually a little less than 14 3/16" eye to eye. Still though, I think before I place an order and drop the coin I'll put mine on a lift and take some measurements to make sure what I get will be within my own comfort range.


    Yeah, I explained the belt tension issue in some detail back earlier in this thread, HERE. But, it is worth pointing out again since it can cause serious wear and/or damage for those that aren't aware of it. :thumb

    Thanks for the additional input.

    :1drink
  4. hhkiwi

    hhkiwi Been here awhile

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    As I said, 6,500 miles with no signs of the belt being in touch with the rear master cylinder while riding. And we're talking California roads here...
  5. tree88

    tree88 Been here awhile

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    was between the bellcrank (lever that actuates the master cylinder) and the belt. if the above poster doesn't mind, he can post a shot of the right side of the bike where the belt passes by the bellcrank, and i will do the same tomorrow (the pics wouldn't come out tonight, too dark). mine being a 2012 might be different, dunno for sure.:eek1
  6. Randy

    Randy Long timer

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    Yeah, I was wondering about possible differences between the years and models of bikes as well. Mine's a 2013 and I've never compared the master cylinder, bellcrank, or pedal linkage between my bike and others. Could it be that since the Roadster originally had longer shocks it is set up slightly different in that area? I crawled around under mine a bit earlier tonight and I'd be curious to see how it's all set up on the Roadster, just to compare. I'd also like to see how you spaced yours to allow more belt clearance. When you described it earlier my mind's eye thought I knew what you did. But, when I looked at mine more closely I couldn't see how it worked.

    :1drink
  7. hhkiwi

    hhkiwi Been here awhile

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    Happy to do that but I may not be able to take a photo until Saturday - let me see how I go tomorrow.
  8. tree88

    tree88 Been here awhile

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    we keep going at this rate, we might learn somethin lol:evil


    btw- this is kinda weird for me- posted a pic of my bike, and nobody has slammed it for having a comfortable seat, suspension travel, or cornering clearance....
  9. Randy

    Randy Long timer

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    Well, I don't like to put anyone's "thang" down, and I know there are different tastes and priorities when it comes to bikes. But, this forum tends to have more "real riders" than some of the more H-D specific places I've experienced. Not that there aren't real riders there too, but the ratio is much higher here, in my experience. For example, here we are, talking about modifying our low bikes to improve cornering clearance, and I couldn't count the number of times I've read about people LOWERING Nighsters, 72's and 48's over on xlforum. I just don't get it. Seems to be a good bunch over there too, but just of a different mindset I guess. Function seems to take a backseat to form in other places. Here, for the most part, function trumps form.

    Welcome to Advrider, btw!

    :1drink
  10. DS Hobo

    DS Hobo Adventurer

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    I just bought this bike and as far as I know they are the stock shocks from Harley for the 1200S model. I will take a closer look at them and let you know what I find out.
  11. tree88

    tree88 Been here awhile

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    most all of the bikes over there look awesome, but I need functional transportation lol. I have the typical "bar hopper" sitting in the garage- there is a reason it lost it's slot as the day to day ride. I wonder if other makes have the same issues with "fashion police" ?
  12. tree88

    tree88 Been here awhile

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    belt to bellcrank clearance

    [​IMG]


    closeup of above

    [​IMG]


    belt to pulley cover clearance

    [​IMG]


    holes that must be slotted (and half the thickness of the bottom spacer put behind ie: 1/4" in down will require 1/8" of spacers to get the bolts to tighten correctly)

    [​IMG]

    you can just make out the 1/8" of washers behind the bracket.
  13. hhkiwi

    hhkiwi Been here awhile

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    ... and here are my photos. First the one showing the belt resting on the bellcrank with no one on the bike:

    [​IMG]

    The next shot shows the situation with me sitting on the bike. I can push my finger in between the belt and the bellcrank:

    [​IMG]

    And finally a photo showing the back of my belt - there's virtually no sign of wear after 6,500 miles:

    [​IMG]
  14. Randy

    Randy Long timer

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    I tried to take pictures of mine for reference, but my bike is set up a little differently. The exhaust and cross over pipe support is in the way of getting a decent angle on it. The pics I got were pretty useless, unlike yours.

    I understand what you did with the top mounting bolts, but I'm still a bit confused. Perhaps I'm looking at it wrong, or maybe I'm just dense, IDK, but it appears that about the only thing I could accomplish with spacers would be to move the master cylinder rearward, and not really down away from the belt. Do you have a pic of were exactly you placed the 1/4" spacer? Are you talking about behind the two large bolts below the m/c in this pic?

    [​IMG]
  15. tree88

    tree88 Been here awhile

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    [​IMG]

    there are three bolts which hold the bracket to the bike.

    the lower (front) bolt is where i spaced it down 1/4"

    by moving the bracket straight down, there is a gap opened between the rear of the bracket and the frame.

    this gap can be filled with roughly half the thickness of the lower spacer (because the rear of the bracket is at roughly a 45 degree angle)

    the bracket moves straight down (because the front bolt hole will not allow forward or aft movement) but because of the angle of the frame it must be spaced to fill the gap.:D

    hope this clears it up for you
  16. hhkiwi

    hhkiwi Been here awhile

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    I'm scratching my head here - what am I missing? Why do you want to mess with your rear master right away?

    Just install the longer shocks, give the belt some slack and take the bike for a ride. Then look at the outside of the belt for any signs of contact with the bellcrank - there's a good chance you won't find any, in which case there's no point lowering the rear master, right?

    My belt is 6+ years old with 6,500 miles on it and my bike has had 15" shocks from new. If there'd been regular contact with the bell crank - or any other part - I'd know by now. But there's nothing, except perhaps a very fine line on the back of the belt from pushing the bike out of the garage with no load on it. But you'll have to look very closely to see it.

    Me thinks you worry too much.
  17. tree88

    tree88 Been here awhile

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    mine had a really light wear mark from the linkage- but riding style may have a large part to play in that. I do tend to gear brake alot (rear suspension unloaded, tension on lower part of belt) so I modified mine to prevent any further wear... your results may vary.:wink:

    that and my suspension does not move very much when i sit on it (drops about 3/4")- so it runs damn near topped out at all times.
  18. Randy

    Randy Long timer

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    Ahhh.... Now I got ya!.. The whole cast iron thing gets moved down. I was just looking at where the master cylinder appears to bolt to that piece. And yes, I see what you mean about the top bolts and it all makes perfect sense to me now. Denseness over! At least for now... :lol3



    Not missing anything. I agree, I'd try it first as is. But, I like to have a contingency plan just in case I'm not comfortable with how close my belt runs to other hard parts. I probably wouldn't "need" it, but it's nice to know that once I spend the cash on a set of shocks, I'm not screwed if my bike exhibits interference issues. Besides, a little extra clearance won't hurt.

    :1drink
  19. Eye of the Tiger

    Eye of the Tiger Adventurer

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    The fact that my wire wheels have tubeless tires with tubes in them makes me angry. I am used to keeping a tire plug kit with me, but I'm not patching tubes. Anyone know where I can get some cheap cast wheels that I can run tubeless tires? All the ones I see on line are really pricey and fancy looking,. Or a good way to seal the wire wheels so I can throw the tubes away?
  20. hhkiwi

    hhkiwi Been here awhile

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    Keep an eye out on Ebay or Craigslist - you can regularly pick up stock cast wheels for a good price.