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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by Bloodweiser, Dec 20, 2010.
Found ze leak:
Great!, it's coming together
yep. I got the rocker box leak taken care of and the mail man dropped off a stock seat for me today.
Also, I just posted up some take offs for sale if anybody's interested:
Now to change the oil, air up the tires, and tune that carb. Maybe tomorrow.
Mikesova: those are good results from your refit! Bike looks great. I looked at a "1200 custom" nearby and it was very nice, too nice in fact, but worth the $$$ for another buyer.
I am interested to see what happens next with JBC's bars (the Biltwells look good!) as that integrated riser detail limits your choices a little. My favorite set was the XR1000 bar with standard riser (it was OEM, dimpled and fit my build great) and I ran those after trying stock 883 bars (too narrow), Daytona bend, and drag bars (way too narrow) on my '88 1200 (I gotta scan a pic of that bike...).
As a sidenote, I was talking to a young hipster yesterday and we got talking about bikes... I told him about the Sporty we just got and he remarked that Sportsters were too big, and told me "everybody" is now looking for 250cc standards!!! I showed him a few pics of Storz conversion and similar bikes. I could see the wheels turning, and he studied the pics for a while. It was a fun chat and good perspective from a 21 year old (who might now be Sportster shopping!). But I gotta laugh, where was this kid when I sold my WR???
My Sporty "going" to NC for some downhill MTB action!
Like a freakin' Clampett mobile she is.
Where's Granny's rocking chair?
Anybody have a set of the newer more oval shaped sportster mirrors they don't want? black or chrome, whichever.
I'm heading out in the morning thru WV., down to Fancy Gap, then down the BRP to Maggie Valley....Meeting up with my buddy on his CB1100 in southern Ohio....
Gonna take 33 to, 16, to 60, to RT20, to Princeton, then down 77 to Fancy Gap..Great ride I did it last year on my Vstrom, this year on the Sportster..
Mike, I might be willing to part with the stock mirrors off my 2006 Roadster. Fair warning, I'll part with them because I really want something I can actually see behind me with, these are only good for checking out my arms. But send me a PM if you're interested.
Heck yeah. I'm jealous that I'm not loading up for a long trip tonight. Y'all have fun and be safe!
I piddled with mine between rainstorms and yard work today. I had a standard black license plate mount and some amber indicator lenses in a box so I put them on. I also finally mounted the National Cycle Gladiator windshield that I received months ago. I didn't have much time to test it out but it actually works very well and is adjustable at two pivot points so you can raise or lower it and change the forward pitch.
Black Mirrors available.......pm sent.
working with some plasti-dip:
Trying some low buck customization. I saw something about wrapping paracord around the upper forks. I found this rope at the local discount shop. It's black with specks of red and yellow, which match the bike's paint scheme. I wrapped them a little short to leave room for the signal relocation brackets I ordered.
I used what was left to wrap part of the sissy bar:
I also plasti-dipped the air cleaner yesterday, while I was doing the fork legs:
It's been way too hot out the last few days, so I've been hiding in the house/garage.
That Plastidip stuff looks interesting. I acquired a Dyna OEM air cleaner cover so that I could protect my K&N filter from the rain and mud. I'm thinking that Plastidip would look good on it since it's kind of chrome overkill at the moment.
Don't you just spray it on with no prep and then peel it off later when you're ready?
Yep. Just make sure it's really clean. Also, I would reccommend using a large styrofoam cup (what I found in the recycling bin) or something like that to prop it up while spraying. If you let it sit flat on a piece of cardboard, the plastic dip wants to peel off when you pick it up after it's dry. Yeah, prop it up, do like 4-5 coats and let it dry. After you give it a couple coats, you think you've got it covered, until you look closer. :)
I think it looks awesome, but I'm a little nervous about it being so close to the carb. Gas will eat it up, so be careful.
Edit: I also saw somebody using it on their heat shields on either hdforum or xlforum. I can't believe that it would hold up to that, but supposedly it will. 8 bucks a can isn't exactly a huge investment.
That looks really good, at least in pictures. I keep hearing about this stuff. I think it's time to try it.
Do you know if it can be applied over paint then removed later without paint damage?
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That's literally the point of it. To be able to coat something that can be removed later. I don't think I would have painted the fork legs on my bike, but plasti-dip, sure, why not. If it gets nasty looking after a while, I can literally pull it off without even having to take anything apart.
Thats sweet. I'm going to buy a test can, see how I like it. I see myself using it on a lot of stuff.
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It has its place for the right application. One of the good things is its remove-ability. Just be aware of its limitations. Like all coatings, the key to long term durability is proper adhesion, and that requires having an adequate anchor pattern on the substrate. Bright and shining chrome is just the opposite so nothing will stick to it real well over the long term. That's great if you just want a temporary change, or don't mind reapplying it on occasion.
But, if you want a good long term solution I'd look into powder coating. I picked up a little powder coating unit from Harbor Freight a while back and I'm really impressed with the results on a few parts that I've done so far. . I paid less than $50 for the unit and just a few dollars for a jar of matte black powder. I've done several things on my Sporty already and have been surprised how far one jar of powder goes. I've posted pics of some of the things I've done, a while back in this thread. Much cheaper than rattle cans, and much more durable. It's very easy to use and produces a finish superior to any readily available paint. Dust it with powder, bake it in the oven at 400 degrees for about 20 minutes and let it cool. Out comes a finished product with no drying time, no noxious fumes, and no worrisome overspray to get on things you DON'T want paint on. Until it's cured with heat it's just a very fine dust, so you can do it in places you might not want to use spray paint, like inside your garage. The only caveat is that it won't work in places that would call for high temp paint since it has a melting point a little below 400 degrees. But for most parts on a motorcycle it's a really good thing to have around the shop.
But, even with powder coat, you still need to have a properly prepared surface for it to stick too.