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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by Bloodweiser, Dec 20, 2010.
Can you make them spin in opposite directions?
Slip a buck in my belt and lets see
Sweet! Someone call the police! You stole that bike!
Nice looking sporty you got Tom! You stole that bad boy!
Installed my home-made crash bar;
Got a little over $10.00 in the whole thing.
Care to share the details, parts list, etc...
Sure! 1 inch aluminum round stock, cut to 20 inch's and 1 1/2 thick aluminum plate, cut to fit the front down tubes. (liberated from the scrap pile @ work. They had some nicks and dings, just cut around the really bad stuff) I got 4 cheap skate board wheels off of Amazon, 55mm wide (75mm wide with a offset would have been better) 6 S.S. 3/8 bolts course thread. 2 are 3/4 inch long (used to attach the plate to the mounts for a chin spoiler) 2 are 2 inch's long, used to attach the round stock to the plate. Last 2 are allan head bolts, 2 inch's long. 12 S.S. 3/8 flat washers and 2 S.S. 3/8's nuts.
Cut the 1/2 thick plate to 4 3/8 wide and 3 1/2 inch's long. ( it stops just below the regulator) Find center on the width of the plate and scribe a center line down the lenght. (machinist dye helps here. Coat the plate with it and your scribe marks will show up better) Come up from the bottom of the plate about 3/4 of a inch and scribe a line along the width. Come down from the top of the plate about 3/4 of an inch and scribe a line along the width. (For the lines on the width I said about 3/4 inch. You can go more or less to get the look you want)
Now find the center to center measurement on the bolt holes for the chin spoiler. (61 mm if I remember right) Make 2 center punch marks 30.5 mm on both sides of your center line. (once again, I think the center to center of the mounting holes were 61mm, 61/2=30.5. Measure yours to be SURE this is right) Do the same for your line across the top.
Now drill 4 holes at your center punch marks. I used a 1/8 inch bit for a pilot hole, then the 3/8 bit, and reamed the holes with a 3/8 hand reamer to insure an exact fit. I was using my drillpress. You can use a handdrill, just go slow.
For the round stock, find the center on the length and mark. Find the center on the width and mark. Now measure out from your center line on length 1/2 the distance of your mounting bolt distance (30.5mm in my case) and center punch on the scribe line for center width. (this insures the hole you drill will be dead center of the width of your round stock.) Drill the 2 holes with a 3/8 bit.
Now find center on both ends of the round stock. Mark and punch. using a 5/16 bit drill holes in both ends of the round stock 2 1/2 inch's deep.Using a 3/8 16 tap, tap out both holes (same size as the allan head bolts). GO SLOW AND USE PLENTY OF OIL. Back the tap in and out, going about a 1/4 turn each time. You do not want to break the tap off in the hole. Tap the hole a full 2 inch's in. (you drilled it 2 1/2 inch's deep. The extra 1/2 is for the tip of the tap)
Now it is time for the skate board wheels. Using a 1 inch drill bit, drill out the backside of the skateboard wheels. (if you are using a hand drill, a wood counter boring bit might work) Do not go through the center "web" on the wheel. This will allow the backside of the wheel to fit over the end of the round stock, lending support to the bolt in case of a slide.
Now paint, polish, or what ever, then assemble using the flat washer's. If you did everything right, it should fit.
Skateboard wheels are rated in hardness. The harder they are, the more likely they are to slide. That is what you want. You want it to slide, not grip and flip.
I used 55mm width. A 75mm width with a off-set center would be better. I'm going to get that type.
You can tig weld the bar to the plate and do away with those bolts. I did not have access to a big enough tig welder. If I did, that is what I would have done.
I do not know how well this set-up will work on a heavy pig like our Sportster's. I hope to never find out. I did it to protect my Anvil exhaust. They are not made any more. That is sad as they work very well. Better than a Torque Hammer, and the Torque Hammer is a very good pipe.
I have used a set-up like this on my 'tard. It worked very well on it.
Anyone else hear of an issue with crank position sensors in 04' to 06' XL models? Some cursory research shows quite a few failures.
I had one fail today on my 06' XL883R. Melted from the inside out, completely destroyed! Looks like it pretty much melted down, then exploded. I'm actually glad it quit running, because it puked out nearly a quart of oil between the time it started chugging and when I got it turned around and started back. It would not have made it home.
Have another one ordered. Think I should order a second and keep it with the bike?
It's easy to replace, but I would like to have had some warning. No biggie. No long term damage or anything. I'll replace it when it comes in, ten minute job.
I have never seen one do this though, never.
My '05 had a replaced CPS when i bought it from the dealer.....
Use your imagination man.
I spoke with the service manager at HD. He said it's not common, but does happen. He thinks it's because they are over filled with oil and it splashes too much on the housing causing them to crack, then ground out and melt.
I had not serviced mine since I bought it a few months ago since the seller said it had just been serviced. I figured I would go ahead and service it in an effort to get at least some of the junk out. When I drained the tank, I got nearly four quarts out, adding that to the quart I lost when the CPS failed, plus half a quart I've been getting out by cranking it over, I figure it had about five+ quarts of oil in it...:eek1
It was last serviced by the dealer that did the 1200 kit... Wow.
New CPS on order. Hope I don't have any other issues or damage.
Lesson learned is to service a used bike when you buy it, regardless of whether or not it had been before you bought it. My bad.
Dealer oil changes are notorious for this, I don't know but it seems like they give that job to the least experienced tech in the building OR to the pimply faced kid who sweeps the floor. Whichever is handiest...
I think part of the issue is the manual states capacity as 3.6 qts. Actual capacity is 2.8 qts... I can see that compounding after a couple oil changes. The oil "sumps", they drain out 3 qts, add 3.6, then do it again for the next service, pretty soon it's plumb full.
BTW, the dip stick never registered past the full mark, even when hot.
Hmmmm... Did not know this.
I had the initial service done by the dealer, but for subsequent oil changes, what is the proper procedure for putting in the correct amount when changing oil and filter? What about just oil and no filter?
I have never owned a Harley but was looking at possibly doing a trade for one. Someone with a 1991 1200 Sportster contacted me. Can someone enlighten me as to what to look for (i.e. what to watch out for) when looking at this vintage sportster? It is a 5-speed and has had some customization done (Wide Glide front end, larger tank etc. that I actually don't care for and forward controls) I prefer the stock peanut tank and mid controls, but that is just me. This is more for use as a base project bike, not necessarily a daily driver. Thanks!
The manual is a little vague, just basically says drain the tank via the drain hose, remove and replace filter. Doesn't give a procedure should there be quite a bit of oil left in the crank case "sumping". That's why it's a good idea to run it right before you drop the oil, give the best chance of getting most of the oil out. As for capacity, I've seen quite a few variances between particular bikes. One guys says his has been fine with 3.6 quarts, another says his has been taking just over three, another says 2.8, etc...
I'm still waiting on the CPS, so I won't be able to do anything until then.
I'd posted in another thread that I was thinking about a Sportster, drove up toward Indianapolis and picked this up Saturday:
Haven't had a chance to learn much about it yet, except to say that I'll soon be deaf if I don't do something about those pipes. And the grips are scary.
At the risk of getting slammed for not knowing. Some time ago some one asked why use up side down forks when there was conventional forks x with adjustments (rebound /compression ). I was wandering if anyone knows of any forks I could use with my standard triple clamp and with rebound /compression adjustments. Something with more than 3inches of travel.
That has to be one of the steals of the year. Can't touch an old Ironhead for that price!
Never know until you ask Pete. Here's the little I know. Harley made a Sport model Sportster that had the forks you're speaking of, they're still available new from HD. Part numbers are #45943-96 for the right leg assembly and #45944-96 for the left. If you have fun tickets left over I think you can get the adjustable Sport shocks yet too, they are #54552-96 right and 54542-96 left. The fork legs will bolt right into your 39mm triple trees.
The upside down forks you see are stiffer than the Sport forks but a fork brace helps a lot in this regard. It won't have you running away from any 600cc sportbikes but the Sport model Sportsters really are a LOT of fun on a twisty road.
Another (simpler/cheaper) option, while not giving damping adjustment, but will give vastly improved fork action, would be a set of Ricor Intiminators, combined with a decent set of aftermarket springs. Then of course, getting the set-up (sag, oil height, etc.) set up for your bike and weight will make a big difference too. I've done a bit of work to mine, including the Intiminators, and while they're still not the best forks I've sampled. They're not a set of cartridge forks of course, but they are a good deal better than they were stock. Actually, for what the bike is and the way I ride it, I'm pretty damn happy with the forks now.