Goat meat, good friends and riverbeds

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by metaljockey, Apr 27, 2006.

  1. metaljockey

    metaljockey Dodgy SOB

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2005
    Oddometer:
    279
    Location:
    Eastern Cape, South Africa
    We stayed at the community camp site at the entrance to Palmwag. This is what the accomodation looks like. Thinnish matrass.[​IMG]


    High speed dust pattern.
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    The next morning we leave and stop off at Ongongo spring. I wish we could have stayed over, but the other two want to cover some distance.
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    We fill up again at Sesfontein and then hit the road north to Opuwo. We are at last entering Kaokoland. Some dust devils at a rest stop.
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    We come to a dust-billowing stop at the first cuca shop for a cold one.
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    This lovely lady is the proprietor.
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    She belongs to the Himba tribe. They are a proud lot that don't really mix with any other tribes in Namibia. The headdress shows that she is married.


    We fill up with fuel again at Opuwo and then we enter Kaokoland proper. From hereon it should be twin track into wilderness area. To my dismay the track is being turned into a gravel road. What took two days to drive in 1995 now takes only two hours. The powder holes keeps things interesting though.
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    Eventually the road reverts to twin track though and we go in search of a good spot to sleep. And for only the second time in my LIFE I get off the bike without putting the sidestand out. Makes you feel like a right arse.
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    We bought some boerewors to braai (sausage to grill) in Opuwo and the 1200's bash plate comes in handy.
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    I had this heavy duty bashplate made up for this trip because I knew that it won't be a walk in the park. It is soon to become a major role player, but not in the way I expected.

    Day three ends with blisfull sleep in a riverbed bathed in moonlight.

    #21
  2. Thumpercrazee

    Thumpercrazee Long timer

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Georgia, USA
    WOW :clap Absolutely beautiful! Great photos of an amazing country. I sure wish I could see it up close.

    Thanks for sharing.

    TC:D
    #22
  3. bpeterson

    bpeterson no other way to say it

    Joined:
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    wow, that's some incredible scenery! simply breathtaking. I can imagine why you'd want to go back.

    Looking forward to the rest, thanks for taking us along for the ride. :clap
    #23
  4. metaljockey

    metaljockey Dodgy SOB

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2005
    Oddometer:
    279
    Location:
    Eastern Cape, South Africa
    The next morning we break camp. As you can see it is the dry season. The plan was to knock off daily around 14h00. It turned out however that we generally took of by 07h00 and rode till 18h00.
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    In the early morning there was just still air. The trailing rider had to keep at least a 5km following distance.
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    The Himba are nomads who moves after grazing for their cattle. They have shelters like these that they use intermittantly when in the area.
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    We reach Etanga, a collection of huts, and find that it has a cuca shop. It's still morning, but you never pass up on a cold beer when it's available. Myself and Hennie soaking up some sunshine.
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    The sun & beer combination makes me feel all affectionate towards my Savannas who have served me so well over several years.
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    This is the wall on the inside of the cuca shop. The red is the residue of Himba leaning aginst the wall. They rub their bodies with a mixture of Vaseline and red ochre. Not much opportunity for bathing in this area.
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    We meet this character.
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    Living as a nomad in a wilderness area takes it's toll. Still, there are no hospitals, running water, motorised transport or even shelter from nature here. Yet people grow to a ripe old age. Makes you wonder about exactly how healthy our western lifestyle is.
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    We bought him a beer. Figured no harm can be done and looks like his day could do with some brightening up.

    Grave sites are scaterred here and there.
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    The horns are from cattle slaughtered in the deceased's honour at the funeral. Once again, check out the date of birth. No spring chicken.
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    #24
  5. Sanam

    Sanam Dare to Win Well

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    Aug 31, 2004
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    Location:
    nowhere land
    :super
    #25
  6. MABAPIGU

    MABAPIGU Lofosfox

    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2005
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Matosinhos - Portugal N 41º10.830' W008º40.929'
    No doubt... Great report!!!:wink:
    Thanks for sharing!!!

    :slurp
    #26
  7. Paves

    Paves Beetrt/liver sausage

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2006
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    Location:
    Mount Helena, Perth Hills
    :clap :clap Brilliant. Just as dry as deserts in West Aus, but just soooo different in so many ways - flora, fauna, people.
    More, more, more, what an education. :clap :clap
    #27
  8. nachtflug

    nachtflug infidel

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    Location:
    Harrys place
    freaking awesome shot and awesome ride report. I don't vote on many threads. this one is 5 stars. awesome shots.
    #28
  9. gaspipe

    gaspipe Wandering Soul Super Moderator

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    Location:
    Pickwick Lake, Tennessippi
    Excellent :thumb This place looks awesome.

    #29
  10. Brood

    Brood Wannabee

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    Apr 4, 2006
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    Location:
    Cognac, France
    That place looks absolutely superb!
    #30
  11. metaljockey

    metaljockey Dodgy SOB

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2005
    Oddometer:
    279
    Location:
    Eastern Cape, South Africa
    Thanks for the kind words, and yes Twyfelfontein Lodge is the bees knees. Whilst sitting there we said " we sure as hell are coming back here with the wife and kids" (or kid, in my case). And so I did, two weeks ago. In the rainy season. It was wonderful. We had to be winched out of one spot and had to dig our way out of two more with a little foldaway spade. Excellent fun.
    #31
  12. Dirtysouth

    Dirtysouth Stud fee waived for noobs

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2004
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    Location:
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    Woot, titties and beer.:clap
    #32
  13. murphy54

    murphy54 n00b

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2006
    Oddometer:
    9
    what can I say...wish I was there
    #33
  14. metaljockey

    metaljockey Dodgy SOB

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2005
    Oddometer:
    279
    Location:
    Eastern Cape, South Africa
    So... at this cuca shop there is this bottle. Copperband be it's name. It's not something we know or have ever come across. It is enticing to Nardus though and we are in a strange country so you have to sample the local brew. (Only 4 months later we find out it is bottled in South Africa and sold in our local bottle store) This turns out to be Mothers Milk (with a capitol M). It tastes like Coke, it goes down smoothly and quickly. No mix needed.
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    As I said mother's milk and Hennie goes blasting down the track with the saddle bags flapping like some bird in distress. That boy just cannot hold his liquor. The result is that for the next 10 km me and Nardus have to pick up the detritus emanating from his top box. The most painfull salvage is this:
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    A little wet patch and the remains of the Copperband Rumba.

    It was just one of those perfect days and this picture is one of my favourites ever. Me having one of the happiest days of my life.
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    The day progresses and a lot of distance is covered and alcohol has nothing to do with what happens next. We go down a very rocky downhill and my specially made up heavy duty extra coverage bash plate gets ripped straight off the bike.
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    To this day I hold a lot of anger towards BMW for an absolutely crap idea to fit straight onto the engine casing with substandard rubber ................. hold it.. try and relax .. focus... not the place and time ... move on , think of peace and tranquility.

    So it's fckng close to 40C and all the mounting rubbers are sheared and I'm thinking "fckng german sheisters" and did I mention it's 40C? I don't have spare rubbers (I do now, religiously) and we're at the bottom of an engine casing destroying rocky climb.

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    Here's the mthrfckng snfbtch bstrd rock still holding it's aluminium trophy.
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    There's no way I'll get out without totally destroying my engine casing so it's precision engineering Africa style[​IMG]


    So what we do is to dispence with the rubbers and fit the bash plate straight onto the casing with bolts. The bashplate is now carried much higher and I feel quite chuffed having outsmarted the german engineer bstrds. I know, you see it coming.. I didn't.

    Several hot blasting hours later we crest a hill and cast our eyes on Canaan. Or in this case, Epupa falls. To see paradise in this burnt surrounds almost brought tears to my eyes, except my riding partners would've divorced me if they picked up on that.
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    Really, this view had a profound effect. Felt it in my intestines. We went down and camped right in between the palms on the right by the main chasm.

    And be honest, this is a damn beautiful piece of machinery, isn't it?
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    #34
  15. funacide

    funacide KTM 950 ADV s

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2005
    Oddometer:
    46
    Location:
    Pretoria, South Africa
    Awesome report, can't wait for the next days to follow....

    I really need to do a Namibian trip soon, almost forgot how beautiful the place can be....
    #35
  16. RLK

    RLK RLK KLR

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2004
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    Location:
    CSprings
    Every picture is another "wow" Especially the swimming hole and the method of cooking sausage. This report is part of the reason I'm posting my future reports in my regional section, to make way for the big shots like this. The bar continually rises over my little pudding-head.

    :clap
    #36
  17. Kilroy Was Here

    Kilroy Was Here Carpe Diem

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Oxnard, California
    Fantastic!
    Your pictures carry me off to another place and time.
    Thanks!:norton
    #37
  18. Slice

    Slice words+pix+wood+bikes

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2004
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    685
    Location:
    western North Carolina, land of the sky
    Yahoo, baby. This is one cool...er... hot ride. Thanks for taking the time to show us your "new" country.

    Hey: Twyfelfontein Lodge. Isn't that the place that gave Glen, aka Striking Viking, free room and board when he cruised through Namibia?
    #38
  19. disconnected

    disconnected rider

    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2006
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    Pittsburgh
    wow spectacular pictures... now thats a adventure:freaky
    #39
  20. metaljockey

    metaljockey Dodgy SOB

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2005
    Oddometer:
    279
    Location:
    Eastern Cape, South Africa
    Just getting back to this pic.
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    For those who like to know where they are, this is the Kunene river, the northernmost border of Namibia. The hills in the background are in Angola.

    We scheduled a rest day here and find it an excellent place to rest. To the left are the falls. This spot would become quite significant to me before the sun rises again.
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    We meet Aletta, she is in charge of the camp. She is Herero, the neighbouring tribe to the Himba. She turns out to be wonderful company. Here she is baking bread for us.
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    A day of tranquility ensues. Hennie enjoys a leisurely patching job.
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    I take some arty pictures of the stuff that occupies my thoughts.
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    Nardus takes some arty pictures of the stuff that occupies his mind.
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    We order some meat to braai from the locals. An unfortunate goat moves on to a higher plain and we have this delivered to us.
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    The night starts out well with all three of us trying to be the alpha male (Aletta kept us company). We braai goat and we also heat up the Copperband for better effect. This is a little trick I learned whilst in colder climes.
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    This was a mistake however. The heating part. Also maybe the fact that this was the second bottle for the evening.
    Goat meat and Copperband do not compliment each other. I learn that in the dark early morning hours when I try to get rid of both and fall into the river. The rock I had been using to support myself came loose from the riverbank causing me to topple in head first.
    We are just about 50m above the main chasm of the falls, the current is pretty damn strong here, also this is a crocodile infested river, my mates are passed out and I'm about to become one of those missing person statistics. I make an underwater turn and grab hold of the palm tree roots that luckily forms part of the bank. I almost rip my nails out pulling myself back up onto dry land. And there I am, still very drunk, the pungent goat meat smell wafting from the fireplace, I'm wet through and trying to deal with the fact that I just cheated death. Next to me Hennie and Nardus are snoring the night away as if nothing life altering had happened.
    Suffice to say I won't forget that night easily. Nor will I touch that vile Copperband widowmaker shit again. And goat meat? Forget it, Iv'e had my fill.




    #40