We stayed at the community camp site at the entrance to Palmwag. This is what the accomodation looks like. Thinnish matrass. High speed dust pattern. The next morning we leave and stop off at Ongongo spring. I wish we could have stayed over, but the other two want to cover some distance. We fill up again at Sesfontein and then hit the road north to Opuwo. We are at last entering Kaokoland. Some dust devils at a rest stop. We come to a dust-billowing stop at the first cuca shop for a cold one. This lovely lady is the proprietor. She belongs to the Himba tribe. They are a proud lot that don't really mix with any other tribes in Namibia. The headdress shows that she is married. We fill up with fuel again at Opuwo and then we enter Kaokoland proper. From hereon it should be twin track into wilderness area. To my dismay the track is being turned into a gravel road. What took two days to drive in 1995 now takes only two hours. The powder holes keeps things interesting though. Eventually the road reverts to twin track though and we go in search of a good spot to sleep. And for only the second time in my LIFE I get off the bike without putting the sidestand out. Makes you feel like a right arse. We bought some boerewors to braai (sausage to grill) in Opuwo and the 1200's bash plate comes in handy. I had this heavy duty bashplate made up for this trip because I knew that it won't be a walk in the park. It is soon to become a major role player, but not in the way I expected. Day three ends with blisfull sleep in a riverbed bathed in moonlight.