going south, see you in five months

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by johnsonal, Jan 20, 2013.

  1. johnsonal

    johnsonal avenger of all evil

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    Here's an old, shakey video from ecuador that I finally got to upload. I'm in Lima now so I am going to go look for new camera mounts so the video turns out a little better and less shakey, and possibly a new view position...

    <iframe frameborder="0" scrolling="no" width="640" height="360" src="http://api.smugmug.com/services/embed/2468551304_wwPQsBP?width=640&height=360&albumId=27639699&albumKey=kSMB3s"></iframe>
    #81
  2. johnsonal

    johnsonal avenger of all evil

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    days ninety seven and ninety eight, 4-21 and 4-22-13

    so we had left the beach and just arrived in Curaz last I left off. we stayed in caraz for a full day and two nights where we did this fun stuff.

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    the next day we left early to head back over the Andes. we were going to just try to make it to the coast but when we got there we decided to just get a chunk of the shitty peruvian pan am out of the way and kept going all the way to lima. but did get in some of this on the way...

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    and here is the pan am. straight, hot, boring and very dirty. could be some beautiful desert but there is so much trash everywhere. everyone just throws their garbage on the road and it blows around everywhere.

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    pulled into Lima kinda late and found the Loki hostel who reluctantly let us pull our motos into the lobby. this is a big party hostel but neither one of us feel much like partying. loooooooong ride today.
    #82
  3. johnsonal

    johnsonal avenger of all evil

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    days ninety nine through one hundred and two, 4-23 to 4-26-13

    the next morning in Lima we went down to a honda dealership where andy found a cheap but nice, set of tires. while he was waiting to get them installed I decided to buy myself a little present. a new camel back! the one that came with my jacket was getting pretty gross and I liked that the camel back had pockets and doubled as a backpack. I met a guy in the parking lot who traded me a bottle opener keychain and a Jesus sticker for my old one.

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    then we set off the short ride to Huacachina. this is an cool little town outside Ica that is surrounded by sand dunes and has a real oasis style pond in the middle. something straight out of a disney flick. but very touristy. we found a cheap hostel and went and got some food.
    this guy was at the hostel

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    At diner we met this french guy Jerome, who had the same party spirit that I was feeling, as at midnight it would be our 100th day on the road, we set out to drinking. we all got very drunk and before you knew it I sat on my camera and broke it. it's better there are no photos of this evening anyways. The next day I woke up still a bit drunk and decided (a very poor decision) that if I just had one rum and coke with breakfast i could beat the hangover that had andy by its grasps. all I remember of this day is meeting some local guys, that were about the same age as me, playing instruments on the street and being invited to join the band. I played the PVC flute, rather poorly. we drank all night and I don't remember much but I am sure I had fun. the next day was a terrible hung over death ride down the pan am of course to the town of Nazca. A few days earlier I had really wanted to see the Nazca lines but the thought of being in a plane pulling three Gs to get you tipped over enough to look out your window sounded less fun today. it was all i could do to climb the tower in the desert and look down. pretty cool. the town of Nazca, not so cool. touristy obviously. we found a nice looking hostel that we later found out had paper thin walls. neither of us got any sleep. tired and shitty we set out for a 450k ride into bone chilling 15000 feet elevations and back down to 10000 to the town of Abancay. not an awesome town but it will do for one night before heading to Cusco tomorrow to meet my friend Haley and chill out for 4 or 5 days. I'll get a new camera and have plenty of photos for you on my next post. until then...
    #83
  4. adventurebound9517

    adventurebound9517 Been here awhile

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    good stuff, keep it coming. You might want to cut back on the booze so that you kill the liver before returning home. :eek1
    #84
  5. twisted-hog

    twisted-hog Been here awhile

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    Good to see you are keeping the party alive. But becareful, I've done the hung over ride before in the heat in Montana in the summer. Climbed on my bike no shirt, no helmet, those couple hundred miles where a blur.
    Then I did it again :slurp :bash
    Those are some great photos and video going over the Andes through the tunnels. Is that road only about a lane and a half wide? Can 2 cars pass each other or does one have to pull over?

    Funny was just about to ask if you guys had changed rubber yet, but Andy answered ny question.

    Looking forward to your future posts with your new camera.
    #85
  6. johnsonal

    johnsonal avenger of all evil

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    Yeah hung over riding is never any fun. And in my opinion can be just as dangerous as drunk riding, which I NEVER do. The tunnels in the canon del pato are for strictly one vehicle. I came across two cars in a standoff in one of the tunnels and neither one would budge. kinda funny! There are spots on the road where one car can pull off to let another by but not much room between the two. I picked up some Metzelers in Medellin but andy changed his once in Baja and then in Lima. My tires had steel belts showing by the time I got to Medellin and his were close in Lima. Thanks for the post, always great to have some encouragement!
    #86
  7. Honkey Cat

    Honkey Cat Tailights Fade!

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    Great stuff
    #87
  8. johnsonal

    johnsonal avenger of all evil

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    Been having fun in Cusco. Here's a little teaser.

    <iframe frameborder="0" scrolling="no" width="640" height="360" src="http://api.smugmug.com/services/embed/2488657357_cWpDdGG?width=640&height=360&albumId=27639699&albumKey=kSMB3s"></iframe>


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    More to come!
    #88
  9. twisted-hog

    twisted-hog Been here awhile

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    #89
  10. johnsonal

    johnsonal avenger of all evil

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    days one hundred and three through one hundred and ten, 4-27 to 5-3-13

    So I arrived in Cusco and met up with my friend from back in Ashland who has been living here for a few years. After the ride from Abancay I was a little hungry and had some errands I had to run. So we jumped in a cab and headed down to the Plaza de Armas for some food and errands. one thing on my list was tickets to Machu Picchu as I heard they sell out. nowhere to be found. so back to Hayleys appartment to do some research. after reserving my tickets online we set out for dinner and a drink joined now by Hayleys boyfrind, Santi and her roomate Andrea. well one drink turned into many and soon we were all at some dance club taking shots of Pisco and making asses of ourselves.

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    good times. the next day was kinda a lazy day but I did eat some good food and get our tickets to the ruins. now train tickets to Machu Picchu are about 100 bucks but with a little research and more help from PORKANDCORN, fritz, we found a way to ride around the back side of machu picchu and hike 6 miles down some train tracks to Aguas Caliente right next to the ruins. So overall a hungover day but also a productive one. the next day we met up with stephi and nina, the german girls we met on the boat. I love these girls they are so much fun!

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    we went and got some food and then out for ONE drink as we had to ride to hydroelectrica in the morning, about 160 miles, and then hike 6 miles into town. well once again one drink turned into many and we ended the night playing a game I like to call drunk battleship, where everyone said a number and letter that correlates to a part of the cocktail menu and then has to drink the corresponding beverage. The next day didn't start out fun. I woke up at 6 and drug myself down to my motorcycle after coffee and fruit at Santis house. after a bit of riding I started feeling better. we stopped by an awesome salt mine before riding the Amazing road around to Santa Theresa.

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    After Santa Theresa the road turned to dirt and mud and got really fun!(see above clip). we dropped off our bikes at a guys house for the night and started hiking toward Aguas Caliente.

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    the next day we went to Machu Picchu.

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    beautiful place! we hiked back into Hydroelectrica to pick up our bikes and headed back toward Cusco. on the way back we made a detour to a Cuy (guinea pig) festival.

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    guinea pig is a delacacy in peru and we figured what better place to try it than a festival for it. bad idea. all drunken locals in a small town eyeballing the white folk. they were nice enough but a little pushy on the drinking. I mean talk about the pot calling the kettle black but it was a little uncomfortable. they were getting a little mad every time I said "no I have to ride my motorcycle" so I ate a little cuy, drank as little as I could, and got the fuck out. I went back to Hayley's house for the night. the next day we set off toward Boliva as we had stayed long enough and had to get back on the road. we ended up in a town called Puno, shithole, on Lake Titicaca. then today set off toward La Paz. border crossing was easy but costs Americans, and only Americans $135. the town right after the border is called Copacabana and is MUCH nicer than Puno. wish I would have woke up a little earlier and rode to here last night. anyways made it to La Paz, found a fairly shitty hostel that hayley recomended,(thanks hayley) and grabbed a beer and am writing this post. Death road tomorrow! more to come....
    #90
  11. PDX Alamo

    PDX Alamo Been here awhile

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    I am pretty jealous sir, good times all the way around. When y'all get back I owe y'all some drinks
    #91
  12. johnsonal

    johnsonal avenger of all evil

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    I appreciate that man but I don't drink...... I'll look you up when I get back. Can't pass up a free drink! How was the rest of Antigua? Is the rainman still there? He didn't seem to move to fast when he found a place he liked, and he seemed to be enjoying Antigua! (Or vice versa) Thanks for the post.
    #92
  13. capriccio

    capriccio Long timer

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    Just spent the last few hours reading your thread, viewing your videos/pics and enjoyed it like a good book. Good guys having a good time bumming around the Americas, "Awesome"!
    #93
  14. benwiggin2

    benwiggin2 Long timer

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    still incredible johnsonal. What will be on your bucket list after this epic amazing awesome trip. I'm prolly old enough to be your dad- well maybe not but you sir are my hero.

    by the way I did hose down the patio today already. It's almost noon in So Cal.
    #94
  15. johnsonal

    johnsonal avenger of all evil

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    #95
  16. johnsonal

    johnsonal avenger of all evil

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    There's 5 more continents on my bucket list! I don't know if you can ride Antarctica but I'd like to find out...
    #96
  17. twisted-hog

    twisted-hog Been here awhile

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    I'm confused who's, who?

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    #97
  18. Honkey Cat

    Honkey Cat Tailights Fade!

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    Sweet trip
    #98
  19. johnsonal

    johnsonal avenger of all evil

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    Days one hundred eleven and one hundred and twelve, 5-4 and 5-5

    Ok, sorry but the internet in Bolivia has been shit.
    we woke up in La Paz headed out to ride the death road. first we had to get gas. Now, if you don't have a Bolivian license plate you have to pay about three times the local rate and sometimes they won't even sell you gas. this ends up at about six dollars a gallon. I don't like this. so we try a couple things. This didn't work...

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    the only thing that does sometimes work is saying the magic word, "pro-pee-na" which means "tip" in spanish. After paying the gringo rate at this place we set out toward the death road. The elevation climbs quickly as your bike chokes, struggling to get air. We got up over 15000 feet.

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    On the way out there it was freezing cold, raining, hailing, snowing, and I had to ride with my shield open because it was fogging up so bad. meanwhile the hail and rain was hitting me in the face and I couldn't see. I thought to myself, "yeah, this is why they call it the death road". as the day went by the fog lifted just enough for us to look over the edge and see what we had been missing.

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    On the way back we realized that we had ridden past some beautiful mountains, but had completely missed them due to the fog.

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    Of course I got my first flat on the death road.

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    We went back to our shitty hostel and drank some beers and played ping pong ready to leave the smog of La Paz behind and head toward Potosi for our long awaited dynamite. the next days ride to Oruro was boring. We found a cheap place to stay, had a few beers and some cheap food, and passed out early. Oruro was a fairly nice town lots of metal sculptures lining the street.

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    internet is kinda slow so I'm going to post this and try for another but uploading is taking as long as for-ev-er. (sandlot reference)
    #99
  20. johnsonal

    johnsonal avenger of all evil

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    Days one hundred and thirteen and one hundred and fourteen, 5-6 and 5-7

    The ride to Potosi was equally as unexciting as the previous days ride. Straight and pavement. I did pull off for a break and find some decoration for my bike.

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    We arrived in Potosi and signed up for the mining tour the following morning.

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    Then went out for drinks. There was some sort of festival going on with a band and fireworks so we joined in on the festivities. The next morning we woke up for one of the most touristy things we have done on this trip. They dressed us up like idiots and loaded us on the bus.

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    before you go to the mines they stop off at the miners market, where you are supposed to buy gifts of coca leaves, soda, and 196 proof alcohol for the miners you meet in the caves. And where you can buy DYNAMITE! Awesome. I bought some extra booze, and alot of spare dynamite, fuse, blasting caps, and enough amonium nitrate to make alot of large booms. We all loaded back on the bus and headed toward the mines. by the time we arrived at the mines (15 minutes later) I was already a little buzzed from sipping on my plastic bottle of 196 proof. And had quickly made friends with the tour guide ex miner who also liked my plastic bottle of gasoline. we entered the mines. This isn't safe. Before I knew it we were ducking under broken support beams in 8 inches of water.

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    Then we climbed a wall into a loose gravel hill and squeezed through a small hole no bigger than I am wide. seriously if I was a little fatter, I would have been stuck like Winnie the Pooh. All the while I have a shitload of dynamite, blasting caps filled with nitro glyceryn, and amonium nitrate rattling around in my backpack. We arrived at the top of this gravel hill and climbed through a small hole into an open room where a couple miners were working on cleaning out a cave in that happened last week.

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    They happily took a break to drink booze and accept our presents. We chatted with them for a bit before heading back down the rabbit hole and off to our next adventure.

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    We arrived back at the main tunnel and split off up a new hole in the ceiling. Here our guide quickly put together the dynamite and lit a few sticks off. This was sketchy. As I sat and waited for the fuse to burn down to the enevitable BOOM I looked around to see the panic on everyones face. I was well into being drunk at this point so my worries were elsewhere. I have a video of this whole process but it's like 20 minutes and I will have to have better internet to load the damn thing. But I will post it I promise. So meanwhile our tour guide is now drunk too and holding lit dynamite while this girl next to me is getting mad because she is scared and pissed that "I got the guide too drunk" He's a big boy. He runs down into the dark and 30 seconds later BOOM. The feeling is awesome. you can feel the shock wave go through your body, to the end of the cave, and come back through your body again. Everyone now is over it. Except drunk me and drunk tour guide. everyone heads toward the exit as we climb deeper into the mine looking for more of his friends. After another sketchy climb through tight holes we meet up with some other miners and party for a bit. I'm the only white person left. We drink alot more of this poison and bullshit for a bit before heading out of the mine. Well apearently we were in there too long because when we finally emerged into the daylight our bus was gone, leaving Chacco, the guide, and myself in the middle of nowhere. Chacco spots the bus down the side of the hill and we both head straight down this steep hillside stumbling drunk, trying to cut off the bus at the next turn. the buss spots us, we hop on, and head back toward town. I passed out immediately but as for poor Chacco, he had another tour to give. I felt bad for him.

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