Going to Sardegna in Fall... a shorttrip to see the sun

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by philofax, Feb 26, 2010.

  1. philofax

    philofax lifetime noob on wheels

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    424
    Location:
    Munich, Germany
    October in Munich. Temperatures are below 18°C and it's clearly, summer is gone.
    Wolfgang called us on a friday afternoon and told us, he will be going to sardegna
    for a short trip mid october with a friend and he would be happy if we can join
    them. Short trip to sardegna? heading from munich to the ferry in livorno (750k)
    on oct. 15th and taking the nightferry? 4 days on the island and then back to
    munich? sounds like a saddlesore thing, we are in.

    we booked the ferry the same evening over the internet (50.- EUR) and began
    to pack our stuff.

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    On Oct. 15th we were starting at 07:00h and taking the autobahn to austria.
    cause we have not enough time for sightseeing, we bought our toll stickers
    for a week (4,4o EUR) for the austrian highway and met a nice couple at the
    gas station. temperatures are now 0°C. freezing.

    we were planing to meet wolfi and his friend at the ferry. the friend was from
    berlin and arrived in munich by train. wolfi and joerg are going from munich to
    livorno a hour or two later than us.

    the couple at the gasstation told us, thats funny, that the first two persons
    they meet since they got of the train from berlin (guess what) were also on
    their way to sardegna and they also met a young man which is going there
    too. we told them (more guessing), yes, thats joerg.

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    it's cold at the austrian border, so we went on, hoping that when passing the
    alps, it will be much warmer than here. 10 hrs till the ferry leaves. we have to
    go.

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    marion asked me to go directly to livorno, just austrian highway, italian autostrada
    and then hop on the ferry without any problems. nice plan ... ;)
    #1
  2. philofax

    philofax lifetime noob on wheels

    Joined:
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    it's half past 6 on the evening, marion is angry. she asked me to go directly to
    the ferry but i wanted to see the SS12 which leads through mountains and
    small villages in Tuscany. It is so nice, scenic, a joy to ride ... but eats up time.

    Long story short, we arrived in time. Marion was now shouting at me, because
    i was so calm and she thought ferry will leave without us. We arrived and our
    friends were still waiting at the ferryport. Getting our Tickets at the office,
    on the ferry, securing the bikes and ready to go captain.

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    if you want to go to sardegna, you have full options. cabin with or without
    seaview. 4 man cabin, 2 person in a room, shower, what you like. the ferry
    leaves at 21:00h (09:00 pm) and arrives the next morning at 07:00h (am).

    so we decided, the lowcost, adventurer, FYYFF method. Pay 50.- each person
    for a ferry ticket, including the bike and sleep whereever you want. we went
    to the cafeteria and putted our thermarest on the floor, sleeping bag and
    thats it. after a few beers (not for me) and smoke we went to "bed" and
    while dreaming of the offroad heaven, the ferry passes corsica and heading
    south to sardgna.

    The 50.- EUR are including all taxes, both rides (to and from sardegna) and
    the bike. Sometimes there are other offers on the interwebs, but you can
    calculate with roundabout 45.- to 55.- EUR when sleeping on the floor, which
    is quite nice in summer on deck.

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    #2
  3. kktos

    kktos on a bright side of life

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    in front of Mare Nostrum
    Oh oh... nice start. Raised my interest.
    I'm tuned.
    :lurk
    #3
  4. GB

    GB . Administrator

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    61,030
    :thumb
    :lurk
    #4
  5. philofax

    philofax lifetime noob on wheels

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    424
    Location:
    Munich, Germany
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    6 hours of sleep later, i woke up at 0600am to take a few pics of the rising sun.
    sadly the aperture was so high, all of them are a little shaky. but trust me, the
    sun was fantastic.

    we went off the ferry and marion told wolfi (he was on sardegna a few times, so
    he was the tourguide), that she was running out of fuel. she will need gas in
    a few km. really low on gas. he said yes, yes, yes and off we go.

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    ok, guess who was running out of fuel, who didn't noticed that she was not
    following the group and who had to go for a gas station to get her 2 liters of
    super unleaded? marion, wolfi and me. in this order. no problem and we laughed
    about it when drinking our coffee in the morning sun a few kilometers later.

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    weather was great, behind us, over the sea were dark clouds, over the island
    only a few little white clouds. the costa smeralda ist one of the
    nicest coastal routes with a yacht harbour. after we visited this spot we went
    south, looking for camping spots and the wonderful SS125, which leads the
    eastside of sardegna.

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    sometimes it's not so easy to find the way, because you have to go a few
    extra kilometers if you don't want to jump over a small pothole.

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    #5
  6. MichaelJ

    MichaelJ Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2003
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    2,873
    Location:
    Sterling, Virginia, USA
    More!

    I spent 18 months on Sardinia in the late '70s. I lived in Tempio Pausiania and worked at the USAF Tropo site on Mt. Limbara.

    I didn't have a bike while I was there and have always regretted not having one. :cry

    Gorgeous scenery and great beaches.
    #6
  7. philofax

    philofax lifetime noob on wheels

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    424
    Location:
    Munich, Germany
    The scenery is breathtaking. You are driving close to the hills, following their
    natural form, the road is twisty but in perfect shape. To our left is the sea and
    to our right the mountains. We are driving south, reaching La Caletta and then
    a few miles more to Santa Lucia.

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    A small camping place is found and we were asking them about prices. They can
    offer 15.- EUR for 2 person in a tent. Showers are clean, hot water and the
    toilets are ok, no they are also very good. They are also offering trailers to stay
    in, a couple should pay 30.- EUR per night. We ask them for a little late season
    discount and they agree to 20.- / night. Wolfi and Joerg would prefer the tent,
    because it's more "adventure and holiday feeling" but for nightmarion and me, a
    campingtrailer is adventurous enough.

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    so we drop our luggage, set up all the electronic stuff for the communication
    with the civilization (and charging my mobile) and were so fucking happy to
    be here. Nearly 20°C, a soft wind from the sea, a wonderful spot to stay and
    all we need is a dinner.

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    Dinner ... the camping spot has a "restaurant" .. and they were offering a
    delicious frozen pizza for 5.- EUR. Ok, sorry Sir, no way i am gonna eat a
    frozen piece of pizza when i am in Sadegna. So off we go (per pedes) to
    a nearby Restaurant. Mama Maria in Santa Lucia, if you go there, be prepared
    for the finest food on earth. There is no menu or daily specials card. Just tell
    her, what you like to eat .. not in detail, just say "like fishes or please no fish
    but beef or noodles .. cheese is great" and she will cook from the freshest
    incridients a perfect meal for you.

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    The only thing is ... it's not really cheap ... but it's absolutely worth it.

    #7
  8. Nightmarion

    Nightmarion Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 2, 2009
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    Munich, Germany


    Ooh yes. Especially the fact that the ss12 seemed to consist entirely of villages, construction sites, RVs, RVs in village, RVs in construction sites, construction sites in villages and RVs in construction sites in villages.
    Followed by more villages, towns, RVs and construction sites.

    Not to forget the busses, construction sites and trucks.
    And towns.

    #8
  9. philofax

    philofax lifetime noob on wheels

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    424
    Location:
    Munich, Germany
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    Good morning Sardegna. A warm, bright, beautyful day. We began our day with
    coffee, tea and spoke about the planned route. We decided to follow the SS125
    south and to have a look for smaller roads, which hopefully bring us to either the
    beach or gravel roads up to the hills. We found both.

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    We reached some small villages in the mountains. It's hard to describe, what
    experience it is to drive there. The view, the pavement, everything is fun.

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    This evening we stay in La Caletta for dinner. The little cafe next to
    the restaurant has free wireless access and the cappuccino is 1.- EUR.
    So we stayed there for an hour or two to check emails and sent pictures
    to those left behind.

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    #9
  10. GatorTiger

    GatorTiger Go Gators - Ride Tigers!

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2004
    Oddometer:
    984
    Location:
    Waterkant....
    Hey, two days without a post! The change in weather in Germany is no excuse to NOT post any more of this trip!! :ricky

    Did you go all the way south (Costa Verde, Cagliari)??

    More pics, please!!!! :deal


    :thumb
    #10
  11. Cooltours

    Cooltours Rider of passion

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    Zuerich, Switzerland
    Wow, some supa pigdscha! Go on! Bin ganz :ear
    #11
  12. philofax

    philofax lifetime noob on wheels

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    Munich, Germany
    it's sunday. the good thing, we are starting to a nice big trip with a little offroad
    part, the bad thing is, our shorttrip is near the end. we started our day again in
    la caletta with free wifi and a lot of coffee. our route is planned and we are ready
    to go.

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    if you are ever on sardegna, go to fonni. this is a nice little town with a few
    absulute amazing pictures on the walls. we bought some bread, cheese and
    ham for a late breakfast and rode on. after only a few miles there was an small
    path, leading through an alley of oaktrees. we drove a few miles, passing a sow
    with her piglet (yes only one) and finally a descent to a place where we can have
    a break and take a few pictures.

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    we flipped a coin to decide the direction. back to the entrance or go straight
    on to see if this road (gravelpath with washouts) leads us to either a street,
    town or a cliff.

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    funny (yes really) thing was, there was not a single problem on these roads,
    we were rushing down the hills, jumping over the edges of washouts, had a
    few nice drifts in the corners ... but i was not clever enough to handle my
    frontbrake at the crossing in the next town and rearended the memsahib.

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    ok, it took 2 minutes to fix that and it was really no big deal.

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    stay tuned, when on the same afternoon a terrible accident happened ...
    blood, gore and tears
    #12
  13. philofax

    philofax lifetime noob on wheels

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    424
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    Munich, Germany
    calm down, there are survivors.

    We were riding over a few nice passes and always looking for nice gravelroads.
    Nightmarion was first in our group of four. She was not very fast, so Joerg was
    overpassing her, maybe to show her "how real man are riding" and stuff. Nice
    idea .. not so nice was his bad braking manouvre at the very next turn. Next
    thing she saw, was a white and red Tenere flipping over a thornbush and a
    "yippeeyeah" yelling Joerg falling into the bushes.

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    There was no real damage, neither to the rider nor the Tenere. Good old
    heavy metal stuff. After this stunt, Wolfi and Joerg were going to look for
    some more "adventure" and maybe thornbushes, but nightmarion and me
    were heading to la caletta to check emails and drink ... cappuccino. what else.

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    and when sitting there, waiting for our friends, we realized, our short holiday
    is over soon. tomorrow at 20:00h our ferry is leaving this beautyful island.
    only a short time is left till the 750 km long way from livorno to munich is bitter sweet
    reality.

    but there are a lot of roads to explorer tomorrow, before we have to hop on
    the ferry and then there will be a long dark night till we reach italy.
    #13
  14. philofax

    philofax lifetime noob on wheels

    Joined:
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    Munich, Germany
    Woke up on a wonderful monday morning. We were cooking coffee, made some
    tea, and began to pack our stuff. We had more with us, than needed but this
    is no surprise. Our luggage got nice stickers of the island (the heads with the
    bandana) and eventually we were prepared to go to the ferry.

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    Wolfi and Joerg had a small problem with the Tenere engine.

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    We decided to split up, Wolfi and Joerg were going to the mountains and
    look for some gravelroads, we were following another (on the gps unit it
    is a scenic route to some smaller lakes) route to Golfo Aranci. We came to
    a blocked road, so we had to take a much longer route to the ferry but the
    gps said, we would be there in time.

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    When we arrived at the harbour, we saw our ship in the sunset and had enough
    time for dinner. We got 5 pizzas to take away and sat in the harbour and were
    looking back to the hills where we came from. We had a nice 200 km trip from
    the camping place to the port and were a little sad, that we will leave sardegna
    in an hour.

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    Onboard the bikes were secured and we went up to the decks with our sleeping
    bags and tankbags. A few coffee, coke, cigarettes later, the ferry left
    sardegna and we were on our way. We were talking for hours about the
    todays trip of each group and all of us were in common, we have to plan
    our next trip to the island in spring.

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    Time to go to "bed" at around 01:00 am. In only 6 hours we will be in
    Livorno and the 750 km trip to Munich will start.

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    #14
  15. philofax

    philofax lifetime noob on wheels

    Joined:
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    424
    Location:
    Munich, Germany
    and this is the end of the trip. we woke up at 06:00h, put our sleepingbag and
    stuff away and brushed our teeth. small breakfast, lot of coffee and then on the
    deck to see when the sun is raising.

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    we reached livorno harbour at 08:00h and three of us went off the ferry. the one
    left behind was me. a lancia was parked right beside my bike, so can't get
    away without disassembling my luggage.

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    we had traffic jams without a chance of lane splitting and is was pretty cold
    when reaching the alps.

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    That's all folks. A shorttrip to sardegna. Munich-Livorno-Golfo Aranci-Livorno-Munich. From Thursday 15th to Tuesday 20th 2009.
    Next trip to the island is May 08th. 2010. Yippeeeeeh.
    #15
  16. Thorne

    Thorne Sherpa-ing around

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    Lone Pine, ON, Canada
    :thumb
    #16
  17. BusyWeb

    BusyWeb Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2009
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    99
    another....:clap
    #17