Going Walkabout on an 800xc through Russia & Central Asia...and maybe beyond...

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by GuiltyParty, Apr 9, 2013.

  1. New-Rider

    New-Rider n00b

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2013
    Oddometer:
    6
    Location:
    London United Kingdom

    Thanks Noah :D

    Looking forward to your visit to Oz, I should have my own little bike when you get downunder :thumb.
  2. GuiltyParty

    GuiltyParty drifter

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2008
    Oddometer:
    318
    Location:
    London
    Well spotted, he used an arc welder. I'm kicking myself that I didn't find a good MIG welder to do the job. Osh is a surprisingly big place and maybe there is one around but I'm told once a welder becomes good at his job they leave and go to Russia to earn the bigger bucks. The jobs effectively done now and I risk doing more damage if I cut it away and re-weld, so what I'll do is re-weld it if/when it fractures and brace it all up then. Bishkek & Almaty aren't that far away so I'll be able to re-do it there if need be. Thanks for the tips, I'll put this down as a learning experience for next time.
  3. GuiltyParty

    GuiltyParty drifter

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2008
    Oddometer:
    318
    Location:
    London
    There really isn't much to do in Osh, which is a good thing because we don't feel guilty for not doing anything while we wait for the parts. We're on holidays, so we've been sitting around getting fat.

    There is a bazaar which can wile away a couple of hours. We bumped into a Swiss guy that we met in Bishkek, who we got into trouble with the police because we unwittingly parked in the driveway to the presidential palace to have a chat.

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    The locals got a little too friendly with Patty

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    mmm yum

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    We wondered whether we could watch a chicken grow up in the time it took to repair the bike

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    This guy grabbed me for a photo. The health authorities in Oz wouldn't allow meat to hang in the 35 degree heat but it looks fresh to me

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    Patty picked up a new dress for $7 - that's my kinda shopping, the cheap kind. When she asked to try it on they took her to the dressing room, a shipping container that had people sleeping in it. They didn't budge when she went in to get changed :huh She's a stunner

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    The french people that I mentioned in an earlier post carrying two GS's in their truck were still at the guesthouse waiting for an 800kg gearbox to arrive from Germany. They'd been at the guesthouse for 5 weeks going out of their minds but finally the parts arrived and were fitted.

    Their truck was a behemoth amongst trucks. 4.1m high

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    5.4m when the sleeping cabin is lifted

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    Did you know in france they don't call french toast, french toast - in france it's called old bread.

    In my earlier post I may not have been entirely clear. Jack Lilley at first didn't want to sell us the parts because of the crack but after we sent them more photos and explained the situation they helped us out. We exchanged quite a few emails to get everything that was needed and they responded quickly each time. They've been a big help, easy to talk to and helped with the invoicing :wink: I'll definitely be using them again in the future.

    Once we ordered the parts it took 5 working days for them all to arrive.

    A Brit (Mark) got some welding done on the chassis of his well thought out Landy.

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    The welding was done next to a backyard abbatoir. While we waited 4 cows were unloaded and we were asked if we wanted Shishlek for lunch. I said no, as tempting as it was. Nothing was wasted.

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    Dinner with some new friends

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    I put a message up on the HUBB asking if there was anyone flying from UK to Kyrgyzstan and we received a response from Sambor who organises tours in Bishkek saying that his friend was coming on Sunday and that he would get back to us. We waited but in our impatience we went ahead and booked it with DHL Osh, who quoted $200 less than if it was arranged through the UK DHL. It's not the usual way of doing it and it does have its risks but we figured if we paid them they would be more willing to help us with the customs taxes.

    After two days of waiting for the box to be picked up we called DHL UK to see if they had received instructions from our DHL. Nothing. This made us nervous because now it wouldn't allow us enough time to get out of Kazakhstan before our visa expired, and the Kazakh embassy in Bishkek recently 'closed until further notice' so extending it wasn't an option :eek1

    Shortly after booking the delivery with DHL Sambor got back to us with his friends details and we thought 'why not give it a shot'. At 8:00 Saturday morning Sambor's friend, Andrew emailed us and said he was flying that day at 13:00. In a mad hurry we organised a courier to pick up the package and meet Andrew at the airport. So many 'what if's' started whirling through my head. There were so many things that could go wrong - what if the courier didn't make it, what if the flight wouldn't allow the excess baggage, what if it got left behind at the airport. It was a very nervous few hours but one hour before the flight we got a call saying everything was ok and the box was on the plane. :freaky

    7:00 this morning Sambor called me to tell me he'll arrange for a taxi to deliver the parts to me in Osh. The online community is amazing and I don't know how I can ever repay the two of them, but especially Andrew, for bringing the package from the UK.

    The parts should get here this afternoon and then the fun begins :clap
  4. sonnyboy

    sonnyboy Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 3, 2009
    Oddometer:
    317
    Location:
    Cape Town,RSA
    Thanks for sharing a nice ride, glad you guys came out survived that fall/accident. Good luck with the rebuild under the circumstances
  5. Scubalong

    Scubalong Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2012
    Oddometer:
    993
    Location:
    So Cal
    I was a bit worry for you two, glad things working out in your favor:clap
    Good luck and thanks for sharing your Amazing journey.
  6. GotDR650

    GotDR650 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2009
    Oddometer:
    22
    Location:
    Germany, Harz region
    Love these trucks. I got the chance to drive one a couple of times when I was in the Army.
    Gearbox probelms occur when driving it to long in the torque convertor range :wink:
  7. Paratrout

    Paratrout Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2012
    Oddometer:
    208
    Location:
    Cackilackistan, Concord Oblast
    I'm glad to hear that everything is coming together and look forward to seeing you guys on the road again soon. Are you still planning on riding the Bam and road of bones?
  8. blacktiger

    blacktiger Tigers R great.

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2005
    Oddometer:
    3,949
    Location:
    St.Leonards on Sea, England.
    Craig, I go away on two weeks holiday and you throw your bike in a ditch!

    Glad you're both OK and hope you get things rideable again soon.
  9. GuiltyParty

    GuiltyParty drifter

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2008
    Oddometer:
    318
    Location:
    London
    Unfortunately not, we were supposed to be starting it 1st August but by the time we get there it will be getting too cold. We're aiming for Vladivostok where we've organised to share a shipping container to Oz.

    Another time.

    You went away for the rally?
  10. blacktiger

    blacktiger Tigers R great.

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2005
    Oddometer:
    3,949
    Location:
    St.Leonards on Sea, England.
    Stella Alpina and some other tracks around the Alps and across France. Photos http://s396.photobucket.com/user/black955tiger/library/TIGER800XC LV11UXM/Stella 2013?sort=2&page=1 and videos to come on Youtube. Not that you'll have any time to look at them now that you have a bike to rebuild.

    On that note. I understand that the connection from the ECU to the clocks is CanBus so you might have problems there with the new cluster. Hopefully someone with more knowledge than me (Jack Lilleys) can help you out if you do have problems.
    Good luck and please keep the reports flowing.:clap

    You should know that all Tigers like a nap occasionally.
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  11. jtb

    jtb Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2003
    Oddometer:
    2,329
    Location:
    Hawkesbury NSW Australia
    :cry Bugger it! That's no good at all...
  12. Vacumatic

    Vacumatic n00b

    Joined:
    May 23, 2013
    Oddometer:
    2
    Location:
    London

    Best Wishes from all at 51LMS Craig, glad you guys are safe.

    G
  13. GuiltyParty

    GuiltyParty drifter

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2008
    Oddometer:
    318
    Location:
    London
    The box of goodies arrived at 5:30 in the morning in mint order and cost $10 for the 650km journey from Bishkek. Waiting for them to arrive made me sleepless.

    It was Christmas in July :freaky

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    Jack Lilley packed the box like a pro. Nothing moved and it all sat in there snug and tight.

    First step, transferring the useful bits from the radiator to the new radiator

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    Ta dah

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    Surprisingly the old one was still retaining fluid but it was all bent out of shape so I replaced it. The mechanic Sherzod said he'll use it one day

    While I worked on the radiator Sherzod straightened the frame where the front sub-frame attaches

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    Like new

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    We listened to Russian metal music while we worked. Sherzod drank beer. The official temperature was 43 degrees so you can imagine how hot it was at the end of the shipping container with one tiny window for light. Sweat was running from us. Beer was way off my agenda.

    Installing the sump didn't go as smoothly as I had hoped. I was sent a water pump hose rather than a water pump drainage tube so I couldn't replace the bent one in the sump. We managed to bend the old one into a shape and it seemed to fit ok. I wish we had a new one though it would have given me a bit more confidence.

    I used a razor blade to remove all traces of the old sump gasket so I don't get any unwanted leaks down the track.

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    Lunch we had an amazing shishlek, the best I've had this trip and that says a lot. I wanted a coke but Sherzod bought me a beer.

    With the sump back we could fit the exhaust and the radiator. The exhaust just slid back into place.

    Later on I had to take the exhaust off once it was fitted because there is a bolt going into the sump guard bracket that can't be accessed with the exhaust on. Also because we moved the rear brake canister for the welding it got stuck on the other side of the exhaust. The exhaust just pulls apart and easy to put back on.

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    3:00 in the afternoon is when the sun is really turning it on so I can only do 15 minute intervals in the container before I need to get out.

    Friends of Sherzod's come and go and are always doing something on their bikes. I reckon they fiddle with it so it stops working just so they can have an excuse to play with it some more. Here they're trying to fit an enduro tyre to their Planeta 5.

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    A single cylinder Planeta 4. Check out where the exhausts are. Sherzod had a massive burn on his leg from where he went to put his foot down and his leg nudged it. :eek1

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    For dinner we had a bbq with our new friends Mark and Cheryl from the UK.

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    The first of the cars from the Mongol Rally were coming in. It took them two weeks to get from London :huh One of the guys used to live in the same street as me

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    I was knackered from the days work because of the heat but still I couldn't sleep, all I could think of was fixing the bike.


    Day 2

    I woke up and felt like shit. I was so tired and so lethargic I didn't want to move. I think I had a bit of heat exhaustion.

    My aim for the day was getting the forks and the wheels back on so I could get the bike out of the shipping container and into some shade where I can keep working on it.

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    Starting to look like a bike again

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    I wanted to vomit and had to sit down. Working in the shipping container the day before really knocked me about.

    It was a short day and I slept on a couch in the guesthouse in an airconditioned room for four hours.
  14. jtb

    jtb Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2003
    Oddometer:
    2,329
    Location:
    Hawkesbury NSW Australia
    Soldier on mate! I don't know how you can do everything you are doing all at once... worrying about the bike, getting the bike sorted, taking photo's and then putting it all on here so we can read about it in the luxury of our homes. AWESOME!:deal:clap:clap:clap <<<< Those smilies should be clapping...
  15. GuiltyParty

    GuiltyParty drifter

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2008
    Oddometer:
    318
    Location:
    London
    Day 3

    We reconnected the instrument panel wiring that was cut in the accident and installed the new instrument panel (secondhand off ebay). All the electrics were ready except for the headlight so without further ado we switched it on. No whirring noise like it used to make, no needle doing it's sweep. Oh shit. The indicator lights worked. Great. We couldn't start the engine because we still didn't have all the fluids in. Thinking it may be a problem with the CANbus we left it for the time being because I didn't have my computer with me to run DealerTool and check for faults.

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    The plan was to use a compressor but he couldn't fine one with enough pressure to pop it back out so he had to do it the manual way.

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    When that didn't work he used the physical approach

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    He tried banging it back into shape but he couldn't get it back to its original shape so he offered to take it to a mate who would cut the bottom out of it, bang it, then re-weld it back on. If all goes well and the bike starts I may upgrade to a safari tank when I get back to Australia so I didn't ask him to cut it - the less cutting and welding the better.

    Fashioning a new accessory for the bike - the grill off a Lada. A very common car around Central Asia.

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    It was another stinking hot day, the hottest anyone could remember. The locals say it's normally 35 this time of year but today it was 45. While Sherzod went swimming Patty and I munched out on the biggest Samsa (spelt camca) we'd ever seen.

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    The fluids were put in and setup the handlebars.

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    We rivetted the mudguard back on because on one side all the bolts had broken the plastics

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    And fitted my new Lada grill and headlights, complete with Lada symbol :lol3 The headlights still aren't wired. They cost $12 at the local bazaar. I didn't want to spend $350 on new Triumph lights in case the bike didn't start so I only bought the essentials.

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    Day 4

    The tank needed some more adjustments. It had bent inwards and was brushing against the forks.

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    We wired up the headlights but couldn't get a high beam so after a process of elimination we rechecked the fuses and found two fried ones. We replaced them and whooshka we had an instrument panel and headlights :clap I was expecting the instrument panel to be a reset or something in the ECU but nothing was necessary, it's all plug and play. It was showing 8971 miles from the previous owner.

    A quick check with DealterTool showed no faults :clap

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    Things are looking good. Electrics are ok the only thing that can stop us now is if the engine took some damage in the fall.

    The moment of truth.....



    ....




    ...and we have lift-off!!! It started first time :clap :clap :clap

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    As the engine warmed up smoke started coming from around the engine and exhaust as the oil from the accident burned away. The bike was slightly wet where I washed some spilt brake fluid from the exhaust (I replaced the fluids) and in that spot Patty picked up some bubbles coming from the exhaust sleeve near the rear brake pedal. Some tightening fixed that problem.

    I did one more check for faults before I took it apart for a service. I lubed the stepper motor and checked the throttle balance and did one final check for faults. None (other than the airbox sensor and inlet manifold sensors because I had them disconnected for the service).

    One happy Triumph Lada owner (with a mop of hair).

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    I took it for a quick spin up the lane and it didn't feel like my bike. That's to be expected though - I've been riding it daily for the past 2 and a bit months so was used to a certain feel. With gear levers and other assorted adjustments it felt different, but not in a dangerous way.

    I actually prefer it without the screen, but I could either leave it off and forever have to find a place for it on the bike or just stick it where it belongs.

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    Notice the 'tails' on the sheep in the background. They're bred like that because it's nice and fatty apparently. We've had it in our soup and it tastes amazing. Forget that - the bikes what matters :lol3

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    Smoke was still coming off it as the oil burned away so I took it for a wash. It's like a new bike :clap

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    We used every single part that was sent to us by Triumph except the water pump pipe. Kudos to Jack Lilley for getting the right parts to us.

    The engine bars haven't been refitted yet because they need some serious bending to get back in shape so we're taking them to a guy who will heat them and bend them back. That's today's job....and test riding of course :wink:

    Tomorrow we plan to leave and head towards Karakol north west Kyrgyzstan. Our Kazakhstan visa expires 14 August and we'll need every single one of those days to get out. The Kazakh roads are notoriously shit so that will shake the bike down.
  16. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    6,855
    Location:
    tucson, AZ, It's a dry hate.
    :clap
    So awesome!
    What a story and you are telling it wonderfully.
  17. motoreiter

    motoreiter Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,391
    Location:
    Berlin, Germany
    woo hoo! great news, and great job!!

    watch out with that heat, sounds like you might have been seriously dehydrated--take care of yourself!
  18. Honkey Cat

    Honkey Cat Tailights Fade!

    Joined:
    May 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,338
    Location:
    SW Florida
    Woh, crazy awesome back on the road. Congrats
  19. jtb

    jtb Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2003
    Oddometer:
    2,329
    Location:
    Hawkesbury NSW Australia
    Good work and news:deal:clap:clap:clap:clap
  20. jmcg

    jmcg Turpinated..

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2011
    Oddometer:
    465
    Location:
    The Dandenong Ranges, Vic
    Great repair work and an awesome story to go with it!

    Pleased to hear that the Tiger fired up okay.

    All the best for the rest of your journey.

    :thumb

    Cheers,

    JM.