Gotta remove the Neutral switch

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by SUVslayer, Jan 17, 2007.

  1. SUVslayer

    SUVslayer Been here awhile

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    As ridiculous as it sounds, I can't get the little plastic neutral switch out of its housing on the bottom of the transmission. I removed the exhaust to get better access, but still can't get it out. It spins, but won't budge in the downward direction. Do I have to remove the plug (thereby draining the oil) or is there some nifty trick to removing this thing?
    #1
  2. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

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    tip the bike upside down?

    seriously-- i think the whole thing unscrews, and the oil comes out. Better to drain it first, out the real bung. Might as well get a tranny transfusion anyway. I've gotten to it without taking the engine mount spacer off, but it was a pain.

    Did you get a new one yet? you'll see what the part to be replaced looks like.

    J
    #2
  3. elmoreman

    elmoreman takin' a break, boss

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    I dunno how you got it out leaving the spacer in. Seems physically impossible.

    I posted this in the tips and tricks section above.
    Here's Snowbum's take:
    http://www.cdegroot.com/cgi-bin/mirror/pweb.jps.net/~snowbum/neutralswitch.htm

    I hit the spacer with a drift, knocked it out, filed off the leading edge so it would go back in easier, and stuck it in the freezer like the man says. It wasn't pretty, but it worked. Annoying little dripper, that switch.
    #3
  4. Suppermotodd

    Suppermotodd Tag Thief

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    Pull the transmission put it on the bench and flip it over. Then remove the neautral switch. While your at it lube your splines chech your seals and drive shaft. This is also a good time to lube or replace your paraleaver bearings.:D
    #4
  5. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

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    +1, thats how I did it :norton
    #5
  6. SUVslayer

    SUVslayer Been here awhile

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    I guess I was looking for a way to remove it without pulling the tranny. One of the electrical connector tabs broke on it; I'm not servicing a leak or anything like that. But I think all this answers my question: it's just a hard pull, and I have to find a way to get the grip and leverage on it (still installed) to yank it.
    #6
  7. Joerg

    Joerg Long timer

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    Hi,
    After re-reading your posting for the 3rd time, a dim light in the back of my brain seems to tell me that the plastic insert of the neutral switch is spinning. This is not the part you want to remove anyway; what you want to get out of the gearbox is this (19-mm key):

    [​IMG]

    The only "normal" :lol3 way to change the neutral switch without draining the oil of the gearbox is to remove the gearbox from the bike.

    The easiest way way to change the neutral switch is to drain the oil of the gearbox into a container (before removing the switch :D):
    [​IMG]

    Btw, you did not say what bike you are talking about, but I have the impression it's an airhead GS :D ... [size=-2]and no, relying on us to look up this information in your profile is not an option :huh [/size]
    #7
  8. SUVslayer

    SUVslayer Been here awhile

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    (And yes, '93 GS)
    I had been lead to believe you could remove the plastic cap without removing the metal plug, but from your picture it looks like it all goes together. It looks like I'll be dumping the oil!
    thanks!
    #8
  9. benway

    benway Been here awhile

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    do take note that in the photo the spacer for the engine mount has been removed to access the neutral switch-- and the engine is supported.

    also there are 2 kinds of switch so test yours first to see which one it is and then make sure you get the same kind from the dealer. ie which way it closes-- button in/out

    hope that makes sense.
    #9
  10. Joerg

    Joerg Long timer

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    Hi,
    Yep. You want to use a car lift ot something similar for that. Here is the picture "before":

    [​IMG]

    According to my dealership, all airheads post /7 should be fine with p/n 61 31 1 243 097. Plus the washer. Cost is about 35 EUR or 50 CHF, I've paid just a fortnight ago :eek2 (for the switch, not just the washer :lol3)

    Detailed instructions, for those who bother: http://homepage.sunrise.ch/mysunrise/joerg.hau/mot/r80gs.htm#gearbox_switch
    #10
  11. Hennepinboy

    Hennepinboy Have battery will travel.

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    [​IMG]

    Pull the transmission, it's easyer then removing the rear engine mount, I don't care what anyone else says, it just easyer. Anyway your splines probably need lubing and if your engine looks anything like this one you have some oil leaks to repair.
    #11
  12. Joerg

    Joerg Long timer

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    Not "some" :mulie ... just one. Said leaking neutral switch.
    #12
  13. Cpt. Ron

    Cpt. Ron Advrider #128

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    Paralever or swingarm bearings?
    #13
  14. Cpt. Ron

    Cpt. Ron Advrider #128

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    Be cautious with the new neutral switches. I found out the hard way that I needed to use a second sealing washer to get the proper function. The experts on the airheads list confirmed that the new switches appear to have some quality issues with the depth of the plunger and it's effective range.

    You don't want to find this out after you've buttoned it all up. Test the function of the switch before reinstalling the tranny (or replacing the cross-member).

    If you do this by removing the gearbox, having the airbox out is also an easy time to remove the starter if you think it will need any service, too.
    #14
  15. elmoreman

    elmoreman takin' a break, boss

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    Right on. Since you're draining the tranny fluid anyway, you might want to put in a new shift seal as well. They both went on my bike at the same time.

    .02
    #15
  16. Mugwest

    Mugwest .

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    Heretic checking in here: if that broken-tab switch is not leaking, and you don't have time or facilities to pull the trans to replace (the proper/advised way to be sure), solder up a 1 inch long jumper wire with male terminals on each end and jump that switch. You can then start the bike in any gear, which gets interesting if you try to crank the bike in gear on its sidestand (ahh, youth). If you do choose to crank on the sidestand in 1st gear, it's best to have your mother watching all this. The laughter is priceless. Your mom will hear language emitted from her child that she never dreamed possible.

    This neutral switch jumper wire is a very temporary fix, and you will have to get masterful right-quick with learning when you are in neutral, as your Neutral light will be on all the time.

    But pull the trans and lube the splines, swingarm pivots, clutch throwout brg, change the swingarm boot etc if you have facilities to do so. You prolly need to do all this stuff anyway.
    #16
  17. SUVslayer

    SUVslayer Been here awhile

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    And here I was thinking I could just pull the switch cap and replace it :huh I never imagined this little bugger would transpire a rear end break down. Thanks for all the input everybody!
    #17