Gracie's Hack... DR650 sidewalk chalk build

Discussion in 'Hacks' started by CAVEboy, Sep 20, 2011.

  1. RedMenace

    RedMenace Adventure Sidecar

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    We used an arm coming up from the main subframe and clamping to the smaller rear frame loop of the bike. The KLR has a reputation for a weak rear loop on the frame. This arm carries the rear mount, prevents that clamp from rotating re-enforces the rear loop of the bike frame and helps brace the bottom rear mount.

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    #21
  2. CAVEboy

    CAVEboy Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the info guys! I'm interested in more. I'm still working a few of these mounting questions and answers over in my mind. Looking over many different pictures it seems that my mounting points are similar to many of the other builds I've seen (better triangulated than some actually) and that the additions that have been suggested are in response to my "offroad" inquiries. Basically if I want these mounts to last I need to come up with a little better way of securing the front mount. Without an entirely different mounting setup on the front I don't believe I can get it any higher. The rear mount could be moved if I'm willing to remove the side cover or maybe mount to the bikes subframe where my tail rack mounts. I'm considering these, but not yet entirely sold. Please keep it coming.

    I took a break from the frame for a quick start on the tub. I have the bare shape down and that's about it. Added a small rack and windshield frame for the pup (it's not finished but will fold up under the hood of the tub when not in use). Here are a couple pictures of the tub for those that need a global picture of the project's end game. I'm thinking I'll probably mount this to the sidecar frame with rubber bushings of some sort. May not be necessary, but is relatively easy and I like the idea. I've got a left over piece of lexan for the window and am planning a vinyl seat of sorts for the dog and the occasional passenger (wide hips need not apply). I'll post more of this tub project when it's all done... not that the tub is perfect but I really am after feedback on the frame.

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    #22
  3. NortwestRider

    NortwestRider TRIPOD ADVENTURER !!

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    That either a REALLY big dog or a small tub !!:evil
    #23
  4. CAVEboy

    CAVEboy Been here awhile

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    Ha, yeah it does look pretty small. In reality I guess it is on the smallish side, but seems well suited for my smallish bike. It's actually 5' long from tip to tip, but only 17" wide inside. I can fit (150lbs 5'8") and my wife should fit fine (125lbs) but it's really sized by the amount of aluminum I had left over from my last project. I barely had enough to finish the panels. The dog will be comfortable and it will carry smaller sized guests. It does look so small and innocent doesn't it?
    #24
  5. dukegnarley

    dukegnarley Been here awhile

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    Updates OR ELSE.
    #25
  6. lemieuxmc

    lemieuxmc Banned

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    Nice craftsmanship!

    For the rear upper mount I would think about a sub-sub-frame to tie the right side to the left side under the seat.

    You can see the brace that runs diagonally from the right upper shock mount to the left subframe mount on the backbone of my BMW.

    Another thing that you could do would be to mount a hook on the back of the rig. That way if you come across a stuck Ural while off roading , you can use your Suzuki to pull their Russian made chain and help them out!

    WARNING NOTICE!
    Some portions of this post contain sarcasm, a form of humor often misunderstood when translated into Cyrillic characters!

    Attached Files:

    #26
  7. CAVEboy

    CAVEboy Been here awhile

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    I know, this build went stagnant quick. I can't build more of my car frame until I have the swingarm finished. I have all the parts bearings and such to finish the swingarm and car frame. I am just waiting for a very busy friend to help me out with a little machine work for my swingarm. I've been asking him every couple days and I think he is sick of it, but he is just super busy trying to beat the snow with some house projects. There are a few small things that I've worked on, but don't have any new updates until the swingarm is done. Soon hopefully. I will update I promise. I have a few more questions, but can't really ask them without illustrations.


    "For the rear upper mount I would think about a sub-sub-frame to tie the right side to the left side under the seat."


    On my DR their is already a piece of tubing that ties the the sides together. If I end up working out the rear mount on the tail subframe then I may have to do what you are saying, but if I keep it on the middle frame tube it will be braced quite well by the factory frame. This is actually part of the reason I want to keep that frame mount set up like it is. I am trying to keep from over stressing the DR frame because I want this sidecar to be easily removable and not change the factor DR stuff. We will see though. New machined parts to come soon hopefully.
    #27
  8. spokes bender

    spokes bender Adventurer

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    Hello caveboy. I m looking to do same thing with my Dr650. Please keep me up date with your project. I'm a welder capable to do any fabrication. The hardest things for me is when to buy wheel and hub, use partd from old bike? I m new here, is there a different thread/forum for hack building. I noticed, you might get reported, if using this thread for hack building project. Keep up the good work.
    #28
  9. Kyler

    Kyler Confused Hack Nut

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    :y0!

    Can I see some pics of your subframe?

    I'm about to start a right-side DR650 hack for my buddy. This will be for a 4yo passenger similar to the Thing One & Thing Two hack.

    I'm thinking a cross between your design and the Thing One & Thing Two design.

    But, would like to see pics of your subframe.
    #29
  10. cleatusj

    cleatusj Dirt floor engineer

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    Spokes Bender, It's up to the individual whether they want to put their hack build in this forum instead of "some assembly required".
    #30
  11. gogogordy

    gogogordy Long timer

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    As a DR650 owner and "hacks" lurker/fetishist I am watching this with great interest. Good going, I think you're onto something here!
    #31
  12. CAVEboy

    CAVEboy Been here awhile

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    This update is in spite of my friend who has been trying to find time to help me with my swing arm. The last time I went over with everything ready one of the acme threads on his tool bench stripped and we couldn't make the part. It has been very frustrating but none of it has been his fault. He is really trying to help me out. Once the bearing journals are cut the swing arm can be installed and then I can start working out the bugs. This should have been a relatively quick fab job, but has been sitting in my shop unfinished for way too long. I should have known.

    Anyhow... here are some pictures of the mostly finished sub frame. I didn't make many changes other than reinforcing the upper frame mount so it will bolt to the oil cooler and sandwich the frame. Should be much stronger. I didn't come up with a satisfying way to mount the rear upper mount higher without sacrificing strength so it will be mounted a little lower. Although not ideal in location, I think it will be much stronger than the rear sub frame of the bike (up near the tail rack). I hope all will work out. I did get a little more width out of the lower mounts where the car frame will attach.

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    I spent some time rebuilding the car frame also. I shortened it and built in the swing arm mount instead of adding it to the outside of the frame like I've seen on many other builds. I don't know that this is better, just that I like the look of it more.

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    The width shown is narrower than actual width. I should be around 45-46" track width. Currently it is sitting at about 12" of wheel lead. How does this sound? I can drop down to probably 10" or go up another inch or so if needed.
    #32
  13. MotoJ

    MotoJ Mobtown Hacker

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    I've bookmarked your thread- it will help me out immensely when I get around to hacking my KLR250. I'll have a lot of fab and welding practice to get through to start approaching your skills, though.

    I have the wheel lead on my airhead rig at 9", which is about 12% of the wheelbase, from contact patch to patch. Everything I read prior to that build recommended wheel lead at 10-20% of wheel base, so I split the difference, but was also limited by the Dnepr mounts and subframe I used.

    I think a touch more wheel lead might have allowed for left handers with a little less car nose dive. It's fine empty but with a passenger it dips a little. My car nose extends just past the plane of my front wheel axle, though, which looks farther forward than your setup.
    #33
  14. CAVEboy

    CAVEboy Been here awhile

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    Picked up this 17" wheel to use on the car. It was a spare tire wheel from some SUV so already measures 4" wide. I know that a lot of people want car tires on their sidecars and bikes, but I wanted to be able to recycle my used tires from the DR by running them on the sidecar for a while. Yes, the profile of a tire on the stock 2.5" rim compared to the 4" rim is much different, but really they will still mount up and run down the road without any problems. I mounted up a 120 today to check it out and it fit so my 130s left over from the DR should work fine.

    The backspacing was all wrong for the swing arm setup so I had to massage it a little.

    Not the best looking wheel, but for $20 and free tires I'm happy.

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    #34
  15. JoeyBones

    JoeyBones Encouraging Entropy

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    :lurk
    #35
  16. CAVEboy

    CAVEboy Been here awhile

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    My friend came through. Swing arm is done and mounted. Initial measurements are made with lead at 11" and track width at 46". I am ready to put this thing together with final gussets and welding but need a few more things from you experienced guys.

    I am worried about the strength of this mounting system on the side car frame. With clamps for the lower mounts, the side car relies entirely on torsion of the car'sinner frame for support. Every time the car hits a bump, the upper frame mounts will be trying to rotate on the inside frame tube. Will this tear the tabs from the sidecar frame in time? I have seen similar setups and not heard of any failures, but my guts keep telling me to double check. I hope my questions make sense.

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    This picture shows the intended lower mounts of the diagonal struts. The blue tape is where the tabs would actually go. You can also see the lower frame clamps. I am worried about this tube on the car frame trying to rotate and ripping the tabs off. What do you think? Is this fear unrealistic?

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    Finished swing arm (minus suspension of course).

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    #36
  17. CAVEboy

    CAVEboy Been here awhile

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    This is one possibility to counteract some of that torsion. I can add some triangulation to the frame and mount the diagonals to those parallel to the new tubes. The tape shows the new bars. It would spread out the force a little better.

    I could also mount the front diagonal as far forward and outboard as possible as shown by the actual strut in the picture. The rear diagonal can't go that far back to do the same so it would have to stay mounted to the inside tube of the car frame.

    The reason for all this is clearance for the tub mounting. I don't have a lot of room to play with and even with the added bars (tape) I would have to mount very near that inner frame tube.

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    Happy with the ground clearance.

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    Happy with the stance.

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    #37
  18. Motoblag

    Motoblag Replacing skill with will

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    I'm no engineer type but the front upper strut solution appears solid. I would assume the closer you get to square on the strut to frame angle, the less forces are acting to tear the tabs off.

    The upper rear strut on Abenteuerfahrer's rig, as seen here, is close to square but not quite square. The front is square on the sidecar side.

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    iHop has these photos of what happens when the tabs, or in this case welded boss, fails:
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    More photos and discussion can be seen in the thread: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=601636
    #38
  19. lemieuxmc

    lemieuxmc Banned

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    I had slippage on my Velorex lower rear clamp on mount. I made a new mount from a single length of tubing that u-bolts to the inner and outer sidecar tubes to eliminate the torsion force, but still allow lead adjustment.

    Attached Files:

    #39
  20. CAVEboy

    CAVEboy Been here awhile

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    #40