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Discussion in 'Australia' started by XRman, Sep 30, 2011.
Did you go up the north end or down it? Going up was gnarly.
We went up the north end. I thought down the south end on iron gate tk was pretty steep.
I started the task of tidying up my accessory electrics wiring today on the DRZ. I plan to remove the headlight bypass switch and 12V cigarette lighter plug ( never used them). I am ordering a Eastern Beaver 3 circuit loom so I can run only one set of wires to the battery terminals, one circuit unswitched to power the GPS and phone charger (to a 2 USB plug) and two switched for heated grips and a voltmeter. Gags would be pleased that I am finally sorting out the wiring spaghetti as he called it.
sounds like a plan but.. don't the usb sockets use power? Hence battery will die.
Possibly. The current ( excuse pun) lead for the GPS is non- switched plus the DRZ's speedo is powered constantly even with the key off. Hence the DRZ lives on a trickle charger.
Why not replace the DRZ with an .......
Just fill in the dots. It's time that thing went to the museum.
Says he with a DR650, XL500, XR250L !!!!
Nah the DRZ still fills its role as a mini ADV ride quite well.
What my next project will be is tidying up this mess
It should raise a smile from Gags posthumously that I am really redoing my spaghetti wiring at last.
Yep and me. Put in a switch to disable the digital dash while you're at it too eh
Then the clock will be wrong!!!
This new non spag bol wiring might also cure the mystery current leak who knows
I am still waiting on a USB/battery plug combo plug from China. $8 on E bay or $49 from a OZ retailer shop.
Well it was too wet and frigid to play golf in Portland today, so I started the replacing of the spaghetti and inserted the lasagne style wiring ( or should it be sushi?).
I eliminated the headlight cut off switch ( never used it anyway) and ran wires to the heated grips and voltmeter situated at the headlight shroud. I had a guess at fuse capacityneeded for each circuit ( 5 amp for the GPS power plug when it arrives, 10 A for heated grips and 20A for the voltmeter). I have used a positap into the tail light wire to power the solenoid switch then tucked the fuse holders, solenoid and plugs into the airbox.
The proof of the pudding will be if everything works once I have the engine running. If I was more talented with my multi meter I could have a go at testing the various circuits for continuity I guess.
It looks a lot neater already. Please note the high tech lead hanging off the positive terminal for quick access for trickle charger and mini battery jump starter. Wal you should fit one of these to the 990 before our next river trip. Theme for the RR ; " Sold down the Murrumbidgee River".
It is pissing down again outside.
Next project for the DRZ is to get the aluminium sub-frame mounting bracket welded back on. If you look where the rear carrier and the support bracket attach to the sub-frame your will see the attachment lug is missing. There is an expert aluminium welder in Portland so I need to find his business location.
Then the next project after that is to get a new wider gate fitted to the front of the property. The Hummer struggles to fit through as it is.
20A is way too excessive for just a volt meter unless it's like a places to carry a spare fuse. 1A is heaps.
No need for tag wire on the 990 if someone ie youse has a battery pack. I bought one too and already used it on the prado2. Warmed the wires up heaps. eek. Who tried widening the gate with the car?
Hah I knew that you would know about things electrical!
It would save you dismantling the bike body work to find the battery if you had a lead exposed to the outside. It might create excess drag though.
The bloody caravan only just fits through that weird gateway shape. I am making it a metre wider and moving it out to the fence line, so that my daughters can't park in the driveway as they do now. Well they could but half of their car would be on the road still!
If the subframe is alum and the racks are steel, use a 3-4mm thick rubber washer between the 2 materials.(and don't tighten the bolts/ nuts too hard)
Being a thumper (=vibes), and alum+steel having different "harmonics" (vibe-rates) that will always kill the more brittle alum, cracking lugs/ welds etc . Use a rubber washer to cancel the transfer of vibes from one to the other.
Making alum brackets for the headlight/ instrument cluster -nacelles and other parts for the custom DL's taught me that lesson over and over.
Even a 1.5mm washer made from Nitrile-rubber or EPDM sheeting (Clarks Rubber/ Industrial Supply shops) stopped the alum brackets from failing over and over.
Gee,not much going on is there? Perhaps it is to cold? ,maybe we are getting to old for for adventure.
A few of us did the silo tour recently, one guy on a Harley took out a 2m kangaroo, (was big anyway) he stayed straight and true,although a little shook up,says something for the brand.
Looking forward to spring.
Here's a pic taken of the Roseberry silo on said recent trip. Thanks for organizing sam. Harley riders are the 2 short guys???