Group interest in DR650 Lamp Cluster Relocation mount

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Zapp22, May 27, 2011.

  1. Zapp22

    Zapp22 ZAPP - Tejas

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    Folks I had this idea sparked by a fellow DR rider who had something similar to this, though implemented differently. I haven't seen something like this "on the shelf" but I don't know what all is out there so if there IS such a part, somebody speak up like quickly.

    The idea here is that the stock DR650 instrument/light cluster [Neutral, Hi/Lo, Turn Indicator] is in a position that sometimes is occluded by cables or what have you... not exactly in your face. Though I hate clutter, I thought it would be unobtrusive to relocate it to the handlebar Clamp bolts... that is, 'suspend' it on a plate there, at reasonable cost.

    I include a CAD mockup here by a fellow ADV inmate [bless him]. If this all works as drawn-up, one could mount this either on upper or lower 2 clamp bolts - take your pick. I will mount on the uppers "just because".

    The proto is not finished yet so I have no riding time with the unit. That's crucial of course 'cause I'm wondering if it will jitter/vibe excessively, if stock aluminium is too reflective, if it needs any size tweaking, etc. Should have those answers in a week or two.
    Meanwhile....

    If you think you'd buy one of these at a delivered cost under $10, just chime in and say so. I'm just trying to judge interest to see if I should do a run of these.

    Picture it:

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HksAb9Z7V1vIn4temB4rsA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tlZp913KH90/TeAJmcPmEyI/AAAAAAAAAKY/gPKTdomKiYE/s640/DR-instrument-CAD.jpg" height="391" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/techwest77/MotoAdventures?feat=embedwebsite">MotoAdventures</a></td></tr></table>
    #1
  2. jet123

    jet123 Using all my gears

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    Interested!
    #2
  3. Old Nubbins

    Old Nubbins Been here awhile

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    Finished prototype

    [​IMG]
    #3
  4. Zapp22

    Zapp22 ZAPP - Tejas

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    DR heads, need some input here.
    A few questions on my mind, and a few pictures [I have more but don't want to overload, so if you want to see another angle or something, say so].

    1. I'm thinking we only want to do this for standard DR triple-tree - i.e. the standard clamps, at least on bottom ... I guess there are all kinds of ways to do new/different top-clamps for the DR, but its important to note that this sits on top of the top clamp, so its not really made for a curved top clamp surface... the stockers are blessedly flat.
    If you have another opine, pls let me know.

    2. We're on the fence about whether to make this a 'full' so that it mounts on all four handlebar-clamp Bolts. There are good arguments for both, so I'm undecided. It looks "finished" in a 4-bolt pattern, but it also would seem like a bit of unnecessary metal, and would unnecessarily limit what one could do with the other 2 bolts, or the little bit of space in between if one wants something attached to the bar inbetween the clamps.
    Again, pls speak your mind

    3. I tried this in the upper bolt position and in the lower. To me, mounting on the upper two clamp bolts presents too many challenges: Crossbar size? Crossbar position? Handlebar position? Sitting or standing? Height of the pilot? Sitting forward, vs. laid back?. If we get into moving the position of the instrument Pod more forward so as to avoid handlebar/crossbar visibility issues, then you creep into field of vision for the speedo, again with all the sitting/size/etc issues. In the lower position, I have no issues.

    Anything else you think of, post it. This is the time to do it.

    Pictures:

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ytZghPj1KbnUSkz2L_S6VA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FgcT8PsRYyI/Tfd923eei1I/AAAAAAAAANE/iBwXWoUHxfM/s400/DR-instrument-C2.jpg" height="292" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/techwest77/MotoAdventures?feat=embedwebsite">MotoAdventures</a></td></tr></table>

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/I3UWJnURv2iP3ichqk8LmA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5bXLTRy-7Ig/Tfd94GMv3pI/AAAAAAAAANI/r8wmWDLjInQ/s400/DR-instrument-C3.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/techwest77/MotoAdventures?feat=embedwebsite">MotoAdventures</a></td></tr></table>

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Cu8zA0E5BHRCCp6ovbPa5w?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-nna-YHfLMho/Tfd92jIGoOI/AAAAAAAAAM8/S7xnOGA3ndw/s400/DR-instrument-C4.jpg" height="293" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/techwest77/MotoAdventures?feat=embedwebsite">MotoAdventures</a></td></tr></table>

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/8_VDf2WdTBjIaITj7pss_A?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-KrNbJmWukfo/TfIx6KS5E6I/AAAAAAAAAMo/RlkSRm4CihQ/s400/DR-instrument-B2.jpg" height="308" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/techwest77/MotoAdventures?feat=embedwebsite">MotoAdventures</a></td></tr></table>
    #4
  5. IdahoRenegade

    IdahoRenegade Long timer

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    I like the concept, and agree, the stock warning lights are hard to see. I miss the turn signal indicator now and then.

    A couple of ideas. It looks like you have water jetted the plate. Given that, could you "sexy it up" a little"? No need for rectangular plate, the sides could be contoured to make it look more like a factory part. Also, could you perhaps offer 2 different versions, one extended (top and bottom of clamps, I'm thinking, but would have to play to evalutate) that had holes for attaching power outlets? I have Solidworks on my home 'puter, and could throw a model together. Do you have an inexpensive source for waterjetting?
    #5
  6. fizzerfz1

    fizzerfz1 Been here awhile

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    Looks good :thumb and I am interested.

    Can you add more functionality, even if it adds a bit to the price:dunno

    My wish list...

    1. I think it would look better if it sits on all four bolts.

    2. Can you make a opening to fit a CG lighter adapter for some standard ones that are available in wally world or some auto parts store?

    3. An opening for a analog voltmeter would be a bonus.

    something like this
    http://www.harborfreight.com/in-dash-voltmeter-95779.html
    or
    http://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-led-lit-voltmeter-gauge-98479.html
    or
    http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Retro-Line-Electric-Voltmeter-Sunpro_9030050-P_N3342E_P|GRP2032_____#fragment-1

    Just a suggestion...not sure if the above Voltmeters work.

    4. Make sure that the mount works with aftermarket bars and is visible.
    #6
  7. Zapp22

    Zapp22 ZAPP - Tejas

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    Great ideas!
    you guys are a lot more creative than I.

    we thought about the power outlets for just a min... the problem I have is, "which one"? there are so many out there, and strong opinions as to which is the better ADV part to use, and they have differing dimensions.

    voltmeter a cool idea... didn't think of that [but then, I didn't think of a LOT of things :freaky]
    #7
  8. fizzerfz1

    fizzerfz1 Been here awhile

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    Well I want a integrated GPS mount too for the 60csx:evil, but the choice of GPSs are too many, so kept the idea to myself.

    The power outlets options are many and yes some would want the BMW type adapter. Soooo... you can try going with the most standard types... or wait for more suggestions.

    I have used the Walmart $5 adapter screwed to my fairing, tapped into some unused switched wiring behind the headlight cowl for a couple of years without any issues.

    Also if you still have space, you can try to fit in couple of universal on/off switches. Most of these switches are a few dollars and will be handy if some one wants to have a switched light or similar.

    Like this
    http://www.harborfreight.com/push-pull-switch-66306.html
    or
    http://www.harborfreight.com/push-button-switch-66304.html
    or
    http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-ac-toggle-switch-set-95099.html

    I am sure there must be some waterproof versions available somewhere...

    Am I asking for too much now :lol3
    #8
  9. plugeye

    plugeye mc caregiver

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    looks good.
    however, if your riding in sunshine could be hard to make out lights.
    the stock location is shaded
    #9
  10. Grizz Adams

    Grizz Adams Long timer

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    I would be interested.

    Something to think about as well is that some of us run a cross bar pad. This would make the current set up hard to see. If it were to move forward an inch or so this would make it easier to see. Just a thought.

    I would not get too caught up in power options for cig outlets and such. Just give a little extra "meat" on the plate for room to drill your own hole. That way if you use switches or outlets you can decide on your own.

    Great idea Zapp!:clap
    #10
  11. Rusty Rocket

    Rusty Rocket Life behind "Bars"

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    Nice that the "N" for neutral is right side up no matter what the unit does.

    I hate where the stock indicator sits. I almost always don't see the turn sig lite. High beam... never use it. Neutral, don't care. This is the only bike I have had in the last 30 years with a neutral light.

    I think you have a good product here.
    #11
  12. jet123

    jet123 Using all my gears

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    +1 on leaving some extra space for customizing by the user

    +1 on rather than having 2 specific mounting holes, can you cut out an elliptical shaped mounting hole on each side allowing the mount to slide up and down. Yes this adds complexity and cost, but allows more flexibility to the mounting options given differing bars/crossbars/pads
    #12
  13. Zapp22

    Zapp22 ZAPP - Tejas

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    yep.
    thought of that one.
    we seem to have nothing but unlimited sunbeams here anymore.... no rain, no cloud. Can't think of a way to defeat that one, offhand.

    #13
  14. Zapp22

    Zapp22 ZAPP - Tejas

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    like the elliptical groove idea; that added to the flipability makes flexy

    i'm sorta partial to the toggle-switch idea but not sure why.... i may be wrong in hoping they are closer to 'standard' in terms of the mounting scheme and dimensions, and I imagine them to be durable... or at least some of them. the bulletproofer the better
    #14
  15. Zapp22

    Zapp22 ZAPP - Tejas

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    Finish? [we have one input about finish] ?
    anodized?
    colorized?
    I'm a tad concerned about a shiny, bright finish...
    #15
  16. jet123

    jet123 Using all my gears

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    Those options don't rank high on my 'need/want' scale
    #16
  17. Grizz Adams

    Grizz Adams Long timer

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    I have Krylon in the shop. Extra finish just makes it cost more.
    #17
  18. fizzerfz1

    fizzerfz1 Been here awhile

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    Anything that is not too shiny/reflective would be good as it would be better to not have any sun glare from it.
    #18
  19. J1M

    J1M StUcK

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    I would have to agree perhaps a brushed or matted finished to keep the reflection down....
    #19
  20. Tech23

    Tech23 Been here awhile

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    It''s not an issue. I made a similar panel of my own...it's not as nice as this one. I want one of these too. I have it mounted in the upper bar clamp location. At the time I did this I replaced the high beam and neutral indicator bulbs with LED's. A green LED for neutral and a blue LED for high beam. They were only $1.19 each and probably cost less than the OEM bulbs from Suzuki. The colored LED's combined with the colored lens make for a more vivid, deeper color. I did not put a colored LED in the turn signal indicator yet because I'm not going to do LED turn signals until I get some other things done first. I am told an amber LED for the turn signal indicator will still appear amber even with the green lens. I can tell you there is a big difference between the green LED neutral light compared to the green turn signal indicator with the OEM incandescent bulb. The bottom two LED's are the ones I used for the indicator panel. The high power 3 LED Blue (HP3) I used to back light the speedometer in blue.

    Tech23

    Attached Files:

    #20