GS Fork Spring Replacement

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Gusty, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. Gusty

    Gusty keepmyskilletgreasy

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    13
    Location:
    PVD, rhode island
    Hey all,

    I'm upgrading the old tired springs on my GS with Wilburs progressives. I really didn't get too far into tearing down. Just checked seals and what I could easily see and installed the new springs. All was well and good until tightening the fastening screw on the bottom of the Right fork slider.

    The shop manual tells me to tighten to something like 15 Nm. I got to maybe 3 Nm and it turns all day long. I rechecked and triple checked that all was in place. It's not stripped, just the innards are rotating.

    What am I looking at here? I understand that the R and L are rebound and compression, respectively. Are the interiors that different in design that I can't get the same torque on the right?

    My better self tells me not to just fill 'er up, slap 'em on and ride 'til "something" happens.:evil

    Any help appreciated.
    #1
  2. Cogswell

    Cogswell Spudly Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2005
    Oddometer:
    4,796
    Location:
    Riding with my pal Richard Cranium
    Use a "windy gun" if you have one. 3/8 drive is plenty and set the torque low.


    Mike
    #2
  3. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    4,750
    Location:
    Hiding off Hwy 6, B.C.
    No need to remove them bolts if just changing the springs. Longish wooden dowel inserted in place of the spring and push down. Should give you enough hold on the innards to tighten to torque. Get new crush washers, annoying as hell when they leak there.
    #3
  4. Gusty

    Gusty keepmyskilletgreasy

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    13
    Location:
    PVD, rhode island
    Thanks H96669,

    I realize I didn't have to take off the lowers. I just wanted to look out for worn parts. First time they've been opened up to my knowledge.

    No matter how much pressure I put on the assembly from the top, I still got a spin at 3-4 Nm. My local guy talked me through this method. Figure I'd post it if anyone has the same trouble. Works like a charm!

    -Remove drain screw
    -Insert the fastening screw 2/3rds.
    -While pushing up on the assembly spray a quick jet of break cleaner through the drain hole. (This clears out any oil or debris that is causing the damper to spin, and provides the proper "bite")
    -Quickly torque it up to 21 Nm
    -Pour out any left over cleaner and close it back up. :clap

    As for the Wilburs springs, I couldn't be happier. Super responsive, and stable. Easily the biggest bang for your upgrading buck.
    #4