GS-LC - problems

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by atg, May 5, 2013.

  1. EJ_92606

    EJ_92606 Rider

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    Not any switch problems that I've heard of on the camhead GS, so are we to believe that only K16 and GSW riders are hamfisted? :huh
  2. iride4u

    iride4u Been here awhile

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    Yes I am saying that some but definitely not most are ham fisted compared to the BMW factory testers.
    I am glad that I am writing this as I forgot to turn off my siren after work today. I would have had a dead battery when I tried to go to work tomorrow. So many things to remember with a cop bike that you do not have with a civilian bike.
  3. EJ_92606

    EJ_92606 Rider

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    Ya, I think you might piss off a few people if you leave your siren running all night :D
  4. NLS

    NLS My bike needs washing...

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    I am a known supporter and easy to "forgive" "minor issues" when they come from Berlin (kind of weird for a Greek these days), but this is definitely an issue.

    Esp. for a BMW GS even punching the switches should be ok.
    There is no excuse.
  5. RichBMW

    RichBMW Long timer

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    The switches on mine have been fine, and I live in a very wet country.:lol3 The guys with switch issues, are you using pressure washers on your bikes?:ear
  6. Rauven

    Rauven I like the cold...

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    Nope. I was washing the bike with fluffy kittens and unicorn tears and still happened.

    Now I noticed that after 5000km there are maybe 3mm of rear brakepads left. I went to a dealership to have it fixed under the warranty, they just shrugged. "Its normal with the combined brakes. You just brake to lightly so it uses the rear brake more, you have to ride harder. We didn't have any issues like that but we can sell you a set of pads..." They got me boiling a bit.
  7. nwpa

    nwpa Generally amused

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    No.mine had 700 miles, is garaged, and hadn't had time to even get dusty.
  8. iride4u

    iride4u Been here awhile

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    You have to turn off the siren amp separately from the speaker. It sits quietly drawing the battery so you have a dead battery after 24 hours. Kind of like the guys that leave their radar unit on all the time.
  9. Crilly

    Crilly Been here awhile

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    :norton I believe the switches can be man handled and then not work. I think the switches should be broken in, just operate the switches gently a hundred times or so. Once broken in they should last for ever. I donot expect any problems with my new switch cluster even though it feels the same know I broke them in.
  10. Roadscum

    Roadscum Long timer

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    Ya gotta be kidding! :eek1
    Owners manual makes no mention of switch break in period! :1drink

    It' just another case of BMW missing the boat on what should be a simple design.

    Regards, Paul
  11. RichBMW

    RichBMW Long timer

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    I had my pads replaced under warranty, as have a few in the UK and the US. Push BMW on this, they will replace FOC.:deal
  12. atg

    atg Been here awhile

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    Crilly;

    I started this post to relate my problem with these switches. Soon after I posted a solution, although temporary, to this problem.

    "BREAK IN" or running in can be related toa process where high precision mechanical parts are put to work together at light loads in order to allow a perfect setting among these parts. This is the case with a gears, a piston and cilinder, etc.

    The same term is also used in electronics, audio equipment for example, shoes, etc. In these, it seems to be a settling after its use.

    The parts that we finger press on the clusters ARE NOT the switches but only levers that press the switches located inside the cluster.

    This is the same method of working as on the previous GSs, however, now with a different lever design and similar but smaller sized, inside switches.

    What gets stuck are the internal switches, not the levers. These switches, as on the previous model, are quite delicate and work in similar way as a piston running inside a cilinder. It is my belief and experience that the problem is due to a miscalculation on the too large diameter of the "piston" that once it gets slightly twisted due to its unprecise movement it gets stuck inside the cilinder. On these occasions a little lubrification might help as it did in my case.

    Eventhough there is, theoretically, a chance that the more the switch is used the more it will wear and the better it will settle in ( what I presume you called breaking in ) the undisiputable fact is that there desigh is at flaw as the necessary gaps were not calculated in their project.

    Mechanical running in is a process intended to provide a perfect settlement between hghly precise mechanical parts in a such a way that the best adjustment possible is achieved while maintaining the smallest gap between the running in parts. Obviously, this is not the reasoning behind an electrical switch !

    Andre
  13. tallguy-09

    tallguy-09 Smile 4 Miles

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    :lol3
  14. Crilly

    Crilly Been here awhile

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    The button switches inside have two little plastic tits that hold the buttons in place when assembled. If they brake off when pushed to fast they cause the buttons to stick down. If they get rounded off when (breaking in) being used they are less likely to stick. And yes it is a SHITTY design. That's my story and I am sticking to it. :rofl:rofl
  15. atg

    atg Been here awhile

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    Whatever the reasonig I do hope you get the switch problem sorted out !

    Regards,

    Andre
  16. Voz

    Voz Been here awhile

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    My GS LC has failed driving light switch. It has no impact me, I hope the other switches do not fail.

    I have been gentle with them, the bike is parked under cover and I have only washed it twice and not with a pressure washer.

    The switches are clearly a shit design.
  17. iride4u

    iride4u Been here awhile

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    I find a couple of problems with the new switches.
    1; Mechanical, some of the housings and switches may not fit properly. A light spray of WD40 and repeated gentle use should solve this problem.
    2; Electrical, this is much harder to fix as it requires a replacement of the switches and may leave you stranded. This is a quality control issue.
    3; Weather, hopefully we do not see the problems that the K1600s have had with heat. For the K1600s a new switch assembly was made last summer.
    We can only hope that the problems were contained to the first bikes and that BMW has found and corrected the manufacturing problems. In the mean time if we are gentle with the buttons we will lesson our chances of a problem.
  18. HBRDR

    HBRDR Invisible Rider

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    I just completed a 1500 mile trip to NY state and back from Indiana. I had a couple of issues that need to go back to the dealer for sorting out. The cruise control would turn off intermittently without any pressure on the the throttle. This was annoying, especially when riding with only my left hand on a grip. 3 days into the ride, my ASC light came on and stayed on. The bike rode and performed very well otherwise. Fun to ride at pace and very comfortable. I have 3500 miles on the bike now. Will post solution, when I have a chance to get it to the dealer. It has everything except LED and TP monitors.
  19. Emoto

    Emoto Sure, why not?

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    With just over 2500 miles on the bike, the only thing that I found troubling was intermittent rough shifting. It did not seem to follow a pattern that I could detect, but it seemed to be worst when going from 2nd to 3rd. I was thinking it was getting slightly better as the miles piled on, but I was still trying to figure out if it was really the bike needing to be shifted a certain way that I was not doing, or if it was me, or both.

    Earlier today in the yaller forum, Magnon, who I shall now consider to be a prince among men, and whose shifting was similar to mine in its "quality" posted that he had discovered that his clutch master cylinder was grossly overfilled. He removed some fluid to bring the level down to where it should be, and now his bike shifts nicely.

    So... I had to go check mine. And here is what I found. No sooner did I get the bolts holding the master cylinder lid loose (T-20, BTW) but fluid started flowing out! :yikes

    [​IMG]

    Put a towel down, as there is quite a lot extra!

    [​IMG]

    I couldn't find my little squeeze-bulb thingie, so I just used a couple of paper towels to soak up fluid and pull it out of the master cylinder until the level was about half way up the inside.

    After buttoning it back up and cleaning off the bike where a few drips managed to go, I took it for a little test ride. I only rode a few miles on small backroads, but there was no traffic, so I was starting and stopping and running up and down through the gears constantly, using different rpm shift points, varying rates of acceleration, varying speed of moving the shift lever, and stayed out long enough so the bike was up to running temp. My opinion is:

    SHIFTING PROBLEM SOLVED! :happay

    The bike now shifts as I would expect it to. :clap
  20. EJ_92606

    EJ_92606 Rider

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    Great post Emoto! So what is the proper level of fluid? is there a fill mark inside the container or is it half way up the sight glass?