GS-LC - problems

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by atg, May 5, 2013.

  1. Emoto

    Emoto Sure, why not?

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2004
    Oddometer:
    20,903
    Location:
    SE Mass
    If I interpret the text correctly, 55 appears to be right.

    <table rules="all" frame="box" valign="" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"> <tbody> <tr valign="top"> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0mm; PADDING-TOP: 0mm; PADDING-LEFT: 1mm; PADDING-RIGHT: 1mm" colspan="3" valign="top"><table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 1mm">Main frame to engine</td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0mm; PADDING-TOP: 0mm; PADDING-LEFT: 1mm; PADDING-RIGHT: 1mm" valign="top"> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 1mm">top front, M12 x 255 - 10.9</td></tr></tbody></table> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 1mm">Thread-locking compound (Micro-encapsulated)</td></tr></tbody></table> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 1mm">or, Thread-locking compound (Loctite 243, Medium strength)</td></tr></tbody></table></td> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0mm; PADDING-TOP: 0mm; PADDING-LEFT: 1mm; PADDING-RIGHT: 1mm" valign="top"> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 1mm">100 Nm</td></tr></tbody></table></td> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0mm; PADDING-TOP: 0mm; PADDING-LEFT: 1mm; PADDING-RIGHT: 1mm" valign="top"> </td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0mm; PADDING-TOP: 0mm; PADDING-LEFT: 1mm; PADDING-RIGHT: 1mm" valign="top"> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 1mm">bottom rear, M10 x 45</td></tr></tbody></table></td> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0mm; PADDING-TOP: 0mm; PADDING-LEFT: 1mm; PADDING-RIGHT: 1mm" valign="top"> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 1mm">55 Nm</td></tr></tbody></table></td> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0mm; PADDING-TOP: 0mm; PADDING-LEFT: 1mm; PADDING-RIGHT: 1mm" valign="top"> </td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0mm; PADDING-TOP: 0mm; PADDING-LEFT: 1mm; PADDING-RIGHT: 1mm" valign="top"> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 1mm">bottom front, M10 x 45</td></tr></tbody></table></td> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0mm; PADDING-TOP: 0mm; PADDING-LEFT: 1mm; PADDING-RIGHT: 1mm" valign="top"> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 1mm">55 Nm</td></tr></tbody></table></td> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0mm; PADDING-TOP: 0mm; PADDING-LEFT: 1mm; PADDING-RIGHT: 1mm" valign="top"> </td></tr> <tr valign="top"> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0mm; PADDING-TOP: 0mm; PADDING-LEFT: 1mm; PADDING-RIGHT: 1mm" valign="top"> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 1mm">top rear, M12 x 210</td></tr></tbody></table> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 1mm">Thread-locking compound (Micro-encapsulated)</td></tr></tbody></table> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 1mm">or, Thread-locking compound (Loctite 243, Medium strength)</td></tr></tbody></table></td> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0mm; PADDING-TOP: 0mm; PADDING-LEFT: 1mm; PADDING-RIGHT: 1mm" valign="top"> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody> <tr> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 1mm">100 Nm</td></tr></tbody></table></td> <td class="fOne" style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0mm; PADDING-TOP: 0mm; PADDING-LEFT: 1mm; PADDING-RIGHT: 1mm" valign="top"> </td></tr></tbody></table>
  2. Hambonee

    Hambonee Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2011
    Oddometer:
    176
    Location:
    Western Washington
    ok..maybe I am remembering torque specs for some other farkle..very well could be..I'm getting old:D
  3. marchyman

    marchyman DR and GS

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2005
    Oddometer:
    9,106
    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    The 19 NM was for the front M8 -- my bad.

    I looked again at the H-B specs. H-B has you torque their front to 25 Nm (not 19) and their rear to 40 Nm. :dunno
  4. erey

    erey Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2013
    Oddometer:
    302
    Location:
    Switzerland
    From the instructions:

    Securing left crash bar

    - Spacers (engine protection bar) to frame: M8 x 20 19 Nm
    - Tighten screw - M8 x 30 19 Nm
    - Tighten screw - M8 x 35 19 Nm
    - Tighten screw - M10 x 45 55 Nm

    [​IMG]
  5. Dangerous hamster

    Dangerous hamster Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2013
    Oddometer:
    65
    My bike went in again. Initially I had been blaming the banging and clattering on the ESA (because it makes all sorts of noises if you have it set to pillion when riding solo).

    One day my bike was parked on the street. My wife was outside with my daughter asleep in the pram so I decided to push the bike back out the way so the noise didn't wake her up. When doing so there was a hell of a knocking sound coming from somewhere below peg level

    I had never heard this noise when not riding the bike and it only happened intermittently but pushing it back it happened constantly


    I took the bike in to the garage and they identified it as a joint being underlubricated in the shaft drive. Two hundred miles later and I've not heard the knocking again :)
  6. mefly2

    mefly2 Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,235
    Location:
    Big Sky Country
    Glad that you got it sorted ... torque wrenches are a blessing for proper maintenance. Perhaps it had been over torqued at the factory and separated when you went to re-use it. Sometimes the locking agent increases torques considerably for extraction as well.
  7. bobbybob

    bobbybob Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,753
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    Was anything done for the problem??? Thought those U-joints were sealed bearings.....
  8. Dangerous hamster

    Dangerous hamster Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2013
    Oddometer:
    65
    The dealer said an under lubricated joint which they lubricated. Tbh I didn't question it. The knocking has gone now though :)
  9. monoi

    monoi Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 26, 2005
    Oddometer:
    117
    Location:
    London, UK
    I wonder if someone has experienced this, or I'm doing something wrong:

    I have the oem GPS mount with BMW navigator. I had the cover in place for a few weeks because I don't need the gps often. I needed to remove it a few days ago but for some reason, the little lever at the top right that need to be pushed in refused to budge whatever direction I was trying. I managed to remove the cover by bending it slightly, and I could see that pushing the lever inwards got the 2 small tabs to move up slightly but not enough.

    I put in the gps but obviously now, I can't get it off ... Any idea what I'm doing wrong? It's a problem whatever position the key lock is in.
  10. nwpa

    nwpa Generally amused

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Oddometer:
    499
    Location:
    Along the Great Lakes

    The key allows the second locking tab to be disengaged, but it doesn't actually disengage it.

    Once you turn the key there is a sliding tab on the back, on the left (facing the front of the bike). Unlock the key, then slide that tab to the left to allow the spring loaded latch to disengage on the right.
  11. monoi

    monoi Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 26, 2005
    Oddometer:
    117
    Location:
    London, UK
    Just went to look at the bike and realised what I was doing wrong, just as you say.

    I'm an idiot.
  12. hammick

    hammick Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,787
    Location:
    Kansas City, Missouri
    My speedo including the digital speedo with Enduro Pro is about three mph high. I rely on the speedo on my NAV IV and also have my Iphone mounted in a waterproof case and run an app called Speedbox.

    I am hopeful that when the GS911 comes out it will have an option to display an accurate digital Speedo. This can be programmed on the cars and my 2006 R1200RTP had a dead on digital speedo so they could pace people for speeding tickets.
  13. nwpa

    nwpa Generally amused

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Oddometer:
    499
    Location:
    Along the Great Lakes
    fwiw I noticed that the analog and digital displays seem to match. My speed is also 3-4 mph high in the 60-70mph range. If there is going to be an error that's probably the preferred direction. (of course nothing wrong with accurate though...).

    Maybe if I get the tires up to 50-60psi? :rofl
  14. atwoodtja

    atwoodtja Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2004
    Oddometer:
    545
    Location:
    New England, US
    My rear pads are also about done at 6000 miles, too, looks like about 1 mm left on them. I'll see what my dealer says about warranty coverage Tuesday when I take it for service; I'm trying to pin them down via email first, though. If they're not covered, I'm not inclined to spend the extra money at the dealer for essentially an oil change and brake fluid flush. There are no updates or recalls for my VIN otherwise.
  15. Emoto

    Emoto Sure, why not?

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2004
    Oddometer:
    20,903
    Location:
    SE Mass
    I'd better go eyeball my rear pads. :yikes

    Oddly, on my first year R1200GS, the rear pads wore out very quickly. Subsequent pads wore more normally. The fiche lists 2 kinds of pads. Haven't checked for pads for our GSW's yet. :dunno
  16. fubar201

    fubar201 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2006
    Oddometer:
    282
    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    Dropped off at the dealer this AM for:

    6K service
    Serious front end wobble (T-Next tires)
    Rubbing noise in neutral with engine running and clutch out
    Rattle in instrument cluster

    Will report back with results.

    On a happier note, got a Triumph Explorer 1200 as a loaner. Sweet motor and gear box, but not close to the LC in every other way.
  17. nwpa

    nwpa Generally amused

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Oddometer:
    499
    Location:
    Along the Great Lakes
    I've put a few hundred miles on since a careful rebalancing and spoke "tuning" and the wobble I'd developed is almost entirely gone.
  18. fubar201

    fubar201 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2006
    Oddometer:
    282
    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    I saw your post on this. I "pinged" the spokes and didn't find anything wildly wrong. Hopefully the dealer has the ability to do the tune and balance.

    The good news is that the issue is not subtle so I'm not likely to get the "unable to reproduce" response.
  19. nwpa

    nwpa Generally amused

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Oddometer:
    499
    Location:
    Along the Great Lakes
    10-4. I've put enough miles on now to be certain the work I did mostly fixed the issue. It went from a very visible bar wobble around 30-50mph with high speed vibration at 60-70mph, to just the most subtle wobble at 30-50 (hardly visible if at all), and perfectly smooth at higher speeds.
  20. fubar201

    fubar201 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2006
    Oddometer:
    282
    Location:
    SF Bay Area
    Update:

    Rubbing noise in neutral with engine running and clutch out - Normal behavior. Parts manager's bike is even louder. No clue why is started at 5500 miles.

    Serious front end wobble (T-Next tires) - "No Trouble Found" My reply "Are you f@&%ing kidding me?!? RIDE IT and see."

    Having a beer awaiting return call.

    Sigh...