Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by creeper, Oct 24, 2004.
This post is much less interesting without pictures... :eek1
Understood. Your burp hose offers a few seconds of leeway. I hope that the loose frame filler bolt doesn't act like a thumb on the end of the hose does... :eek1 Hopefully the pressure isn't that high.
My bold font is the bit of information that I needed to understand why one might want to tighten the bolt ASAP - and why your burp tool makes that unnecessary. Crystal. Sorry but the oil diagram didn't show that to me; perhaps my eyes did glaze over when I looked at it, repeatedly. So if your burp tool isn't used, one should be prepared to tighten the bolt - have the wrench on the bolt perhaps - because the time taken to shut the bike off and prepare to tighten it = more oil leaking out.
No apologies necessary. I did not consider there might be some methods you would rather not discuss in front of your intended audience... my bad.
Sorry... that bit wasn't directed at you, but rather a generic rant/preface to my "rocket surgery theory of musicanical aptitude" speech.
Beer? That's the real problem. Too bad Prohibition is so hard to enforce.
That might be why I took the cartridge filter out before taking off the spin-on and, well, my drip pan wasn't quite big enough... It's hard to know what's a plug and what's a cork, and where more oil might be lurking up above something that shoulda been opened after!
Musta been why you put those in the order you did.
PS - saw a poster awhile back; it was a vintage picture of a anti-prohibition march somewhere. It was a sea of men and every last damn sign said:
"We want beer"
Guess it beats Meat gettin' a new bunghole...
you said "beats meat"
I'm layin' 30:1 odds that someone pics that up as an avitar.
Oh yeah, the chuckwagon has been doped; news at 11. Thanks creeper!
Dagwood wants it... but he can't figure out how to shrink it without loosing the movement.
('Course... I can't either. Did I mention I'm not really super duper good with 'puters 'N shit?)
Interesting observation with a dry rebuild.
The engine manual says the oil capacity on a LC4 Adventure R is 2.1 litres
Actually if you have stripped and rebuilt you engine it is more like 2.6 litres
Wondering why the system wouldnt bleed completely, 'til we added 500mm more oil . . . . . . . :huh
Just thought I would add this to the thread
This must be a Southern Hemishere issue...
OK here is my dumbass question of the day ...(yes I know the manual is all wanky and inconsitant)
The back chart (capacities) say 2.1
The directions for oil change says ... 1.3 + .6 = 1.9
Creepsky agrees w/ 1.9 and that seems to get my dipstick about right ... so thats what I use.
As long as its in a good place on the dipstick I am happy.
Here is the dumbass question ... which I have been holding off for a very long time.
I also have a RFS ... which "many people" say is a time bomb and needs its oil changed every 10 hour ... filters every other change.
I run my LC4 3000 miles (18,000 current) between changes. My RFS has 2000 miles and I have changed the oil a million times.
It holds 1.3 liters of oil. Is that .6l really that big of a deal ???? I would understand the arguement if it doubled the capacity, but is does NOT.
Yes I know the RFS is a higher strung engine ... only talking about oil capacity here.
The book numbers are only a starting point, you'll always need to check/top up according to your dipstick or sight glass.
Mine's an '05. 1.9L is way too little. Last change I used 1.6 + 0.5 = 2.1L. It took much longer to bleed the frame and still required 0.1L added to bring it up to full. Next change I will use 1.6 + 0.6 = 2.2L and it should be sweet.
An interesting parallel with Hinckley Triumphs here. They churned out so many of the modular T3 series that the later crankcases were measurably bigger externally than the early ones, presumably because the casting dies were wearing out. Mine's in the middle of the production run; it takes a full 4.0L container rather than the stated 3.75L, which makes for a quick 'n' easy fill. I wonder if the later LC4s are experiencing the same thing?
A measure of oil's effectiveness is the number of good bits (technical term) left in it. A higher-stressed engine being worked harder will destroy the good bits in a small capacity of oil much sooner than a less-stressed engine with more good bits (oil) to start with. Does that make sense?
Also, a larger oil capacity typically allows for better cooling of the oil, reducing heat stress (damage) to the oil itself.
You've got 1.3 to the engine , 0.6 to the frame and then the little shot to fill the spin-on filter could be the missing 0.2 L in the number.
Good theory, but I'm only getting 0.03 or 0.04L into the filter.
1.9L in mine (1.3 + 0.6) ..... warm it up ... let it rest ..... middle of the dipstick.
I have read the original post here (creeper!) about a zillion times. I then printed it out and read it another million times.
After all that reading I finally today did my first oil change on my '06 Adventure. 2nd for the bike. First was done at the 600 mile service by the dealer.
I wanted to throw in a huge thanks for the post Creeper. Certainly made my life easier as I felt prepared walking up the bike. :)
Your welcome Jason. One less owner being held hostage.
As you are (were) a oil change virgin... is there anything that I could have added (or subtracted for that matter) that would have made it easier to understand and follow?
Honestly, no, not really. It's well written and the pictures help a ton.
The one thing I struggled with was where to find that damn rubber stopper! I finally found it at a place that sells chemistry stuff, test tubes and the like. Evidently those rubber stoppers are for the test tubes. :)
I also found them here:
If anyone wants to buy a whole bunch of them. :)
I give the post an A+.
To be fair, the rubber stopper thing was something I tried back when I originally wrote the guide. I was looking for a "zero mess" method, and it works, but it's a bit ah... busy.
The suggestion by another member (sorry, I can't remember who) to screw the bolt in almost all the way, start the bike and wait to see a bit of oil coming out around the threads... and then tighten then bolt and shut off the bike actually works pretty good. It's a tiny bit messy... but no where near as messy as the KTM by-the-book method.
I believe the individual that came up with that method had a 2002 and earlier bike with the smaller filler bolt, and by necessity figured it out as a viable alternative.
There is no perfect way to do it... just various ways that are, by degrees, less sloppy than the KTM method.
Thank you Creeper for a great thread I have done my first oil and filter change on my LC4 400 00 and it was so easy with this thread, I made the burp tool with a small funnel half inch clear hose and a nozzle from the end of a tube of mastic, it worked great. I was told by a few people to change the oil on this bike every 300 miles but the guys at the KTM work shop said every 3000 miles is fine especially as it is a 620cc engine sleved down to 400cc so the engine parts do not get a real battering, any thoughts?