Guide to changing your chain and sprockets on the LC4

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by meat popsicle, Mar 19, 2006.

  1. WoradongalMan

    WoradongalMan Adventure Behind Bars

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    yeah finally worked out how to use the Ballards chain breaker i got, very neat piece of kit, once i worked it out made breaking and joining chains a piece of piss
    #61
  2. bmwktmbill

    bmwktmbill Traveler

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    Guys,
    Something to watch for!!!
    I was shipped the wrong spacer bushing for my '02 adventure. I ordered OEM pt #580 33 017 000. This spacer fits the LC4 and the Adventure, I was shipped #546 33 014 100 spacer bushing for LC4 SM and Duke II.

    These parts look identical and will interchange but one is slightly longer than the other.

    Be aware. I think the difference is only 3 mm so it is easy to miss the length difference. The sprocket will bolt up on the Adventure with the longer piece in place but it won't be right, the sprocket will be pushed too far off the shaft.

    bill
    #62
  3. Surly

    Surly surly adventurer

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    Your picture defies the law of gravity

    [​IMG]

    Thanks for the write up BTW
    #63
  4. wrk2surf

    wrk2surf on the gas or brakes

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    I looked up the part #s and they are not comming up???
    #64
  5. thechickencow

    thechickencow Been here awhile

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    I used this writeup today and did my chain/sprockets, thanks a lot!
    #65
  6. makazica

    makazica Been here awhile

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    Would anybody be able to teach me how to break an old chain and rivet a new one without a special tool....hammer only:D

    Or should I leave it alone until I find someone owning one...?

    Thanks!
    M.
    #66
  7. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    I don't know, but I use a chain breaker tool from Motion Pro. They have cheap models and expensive ones too, and they are on the web.
    #67
  8. liferider

    liferider Never It's enough

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    Hi Makazica.
    I don't know if this tool classifies as "not a special tool", but I'm sure it was not thought to do a chain cut!

    I have just made a chain-sprockets change this weekend ... and I have been surprised by the "non-breakableness" of the factory chain of my 640ADV: it has no master link (yes, these things happens to newbies like me).
    Since I had no one to ask on sunday for some right tool so ... there I went with this cheap tool made in India. It was a hard job, but a spiritual enlightment too:rofl

    Don't feel defeated yet defeated.

    [​IMG]


    Meat, may be I misread your accurate manual, but I have not read in it about this non master link factory chain. Is this due to a change between years (as you named there) or to my rookie state of the art for such an obvious detail?

    Cheers!
    #68
  9. liferider

    liferider Never It's enough

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    Meat, when you and Regina say Kerosene, are you talking about chains with o'rings? I mean, no damage to them due to the kerosene?

    Other comment: the chain wich has left the bike was still under the length KTM says it's usable. The front sprocket also looked good to me. But the alu rear sprocket was really dead after 20.000Kms. I think that if you ride with no lugagge at all, may be the super light weight of the alu factory one is acceptable, but since the very first moment you put on a backsack, or panniers and/or a topcase, or even a tank bag ... my friend, the bike instantly forgets if the rear sprocket is alu or steel. So, I'm with you about the steel one. I have put the alu/steel version just because there were no steel sprocket last week, and I wanted to do the change right now.

    Bye!
    #69
  10. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    Heya,

    I didn't know KTM shipped bikes with riveted chains (master link-less?). Someone could correct me on that, but my 03 came with a master link and I have not heard anyone else mention a OEM riveted chain.

    This is probably a damn good chain breaker tool: Motion Pro's T-6:
    http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/category/t-6_chain_tool/
    portability is a good feature in our line of riding, but it does not deal with rivets (probably the "mushrooming" part of locking the rivet). Try their chain tool page:

    http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/category/chain/
    #70
  11. makazica

    makazica Been here awhile

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    liferider....I do have that special tool you posted a pic of:D but as I have a master link I suppose I won't be needing it. I'll rather slap the sh*t out of the old chain with a good old hammer and some kind of a pin.

    I bought a new D.I.D 520 chain with a master link and a new rear OEM alu sprocket....no steel ones at this time at the shop...this weekend I plan to put on some proper tires (Michelin Desert) and while I change tires I might as well change the chain, sprocket and cush drive rubbers.....of course, I'll be using Meat's DIY.

    What worries me is how to put a new chain and close it without a special tool.
    Hammer? Some big strong pliers? .....come on, drop your 2 cents round here....
    #71
  12. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    I used the cheapest Motion Pro tool (in the link above) to shorten the chain to the correct length, but you just need a "chain breaker" since you will then be putting the master link on which doesn't need a method for "mushrooming" the rivet top to lock it in place (both rivets on the master use the clip).

    Try going to the hardware store and finding a strong little thin cylinder with the same O.D. as the rivet. But it'd be so much easier with the proper tool...
    #72
  13. liferider

    liferider Never It's enough

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    Meat, I think OEM riveted chains must appeared in this last years and also may be not in all KTM's shippings. Otherwise, you should know, that's for shure.
    It's strange the austrians didn't ask you if you agreed, how could this be ???? :rofl

    Anyway, I mentioned it just in case it was an unknown detail.

    Cheers!
    #73
  14. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    KTM is known for making changes mid-model year, and using whatever's piling up in the parts bin... even on another model line (950 front ends on LC4s :D)!

    Well, they did ask me if I agreed, but then spewed forth something in Austrian that sounded like curses, laughed hysterically (and a bit manically too :uhoh), and then revoked my membership to the Uber Babes Spa. Oh, in case you don't know who they are, they're the ones that weld your bike together; all hot and sweaty, with power tools... :tb

    (should I delete that?)
    #74
  15. liferider

    liferider Never It's enough

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    I knew it !!!

    Oops, man, difficult not to look at my bike in a different manner from now on ... :wink:

    (and no, you should not. Let's give the icy austrians some warm character ...)
    .
    #75
  16. 30Bones

    30Bones Long timer

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    Finally getting my 640e back on the road and it came running a 14T front and came with a 15 and 16. I finally found this thread and see 16 is stock. 14 was way too tall to ride on roads for too long.

    Thinking of running the 15. Thoughts, comments? 50/50 mix of road, gravel and level B's. No single track that I can see.
    #76
  17. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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    If you search for discussions on gearing combinations for the LC4s you should get quite a bit. Stock has worked for me, but I never ride faster than I can see... it's all in the reflexes. :beer
    #77
  18. 30Bones

    30Bones Long timer

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    Thanks, been searching a lot and shit gets buried fast here :clap
    #78
  19. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

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  20. bikemoto

    bikemoto Tyre critic

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    Too short, surely - revving too high? Tall gearing is for highway use, short for slow-speed stuff.
    #80