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Discussion in 'The Perfect Line and Other Riding Myths' started by Vulfy, May 6, 2012.
Nope, I read it spot on
Merry Christmas Everbody and All The Best for the New Year.
Oh! ... in that case
At this point, I'm curious what you thought Harvey thought it meant
Merry Christmas and happy holidays, everyone!
Lemme just say some of the folks I hang out with have a different meaning for "get stuck in" is all.
Back on subject, I found this while hunting for course layouts to practice on. It is for horses, not motorcycles, but a few tweaks would fix that. Mostly getting rid of the obstacles and shortening marker intervals.
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays everybody!!! Wishing you all the best this holiday season, and in the upcoming New Year!
THIS IS THE PART I CARE ABOUT..... ok, sharp eyed folk... what's he doing at the 2:03 mark ? did he blow a cone set, or is that something new we should be practicing ? he's a badass, no doubt
THE REST OF THIS IS REALLY JUST FLUFF ....looks like a te250 with street wheels ? 17's, or maybe smaller ?
if the video was sharper, we could make out his use of the controls. he's using clutch at the tight turns/ full 360 circles it appears. that's surprising, figured he'd just power through and modulate the rear brake. he's DEF using the front brake in major decelleration moves, but doesn't look like it in the slower stuff.
S'funny you should post that. I'm looking at 17" rims for the DT in the New Year. Epic riding.
The obstacle being negotiated on the video clip at 2:03 is what we have roughly translated as a Jink, which is the simplest of the Adachi Special Obstacles. The Jink requires that the rider touches a tape line between two pylons with their front wheel. If the rider fails to touch the line there is a three second penalty added to their final attack time.
All competetive Moto Gymkhana courses should feature at least one such obstacle which is usually used to slow riders down and to gauge their riding accuracy.
Adachi Special Obstacles are a range of different obstacles that have no predefined route through them, so it is up to the rider to work out the quickest path during the course walk. This is further complicated by the course designer occasionally mandating a direction that a rider must take between certain pylons, but not mandating how they get their bikes to be pointing in the right direction in the first place!
In a Jink for example, the course designer might put a double-ended arrow on the direction indicator which means that the rider can turn either left or right handed at the obstacle. On other occasions the designer will use a single arrow which means the rider must turn in the direction indicated. Failure to do so would result in a wrong course indication from the course marshall which will give the rider a 9.99 minute penalty, effectiveley disqualifying their attack time from the competition!!!!!
At the last competition I went to in Japan there was an obstacle called a Saw that contained SEVEN Jinks, so that meant that you could gather 21 seconds of penalties if you missed them all.
Here is the same rider as the previous video negotiating the Saw. (it is the first obstacle immediately after the start).
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Ok, I looked a few times at the jink, I just can't see what you're refering to. I did notice one thing that corresponds, his rear wheel just touches a white cone as he's about to exit the jink, is that what you mean ? I looked for tape on the ground, and strung between the cones, but can't see it. :)
Going to do a little sliding today as soon as the temp gets above freezing. Wooohoo !
Check out this video instead. At 0:14 you will see the rider enter the obstacle (double Jink) and touch his front wheel to the line.
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ahhhhj, got it! thanks. tried some cool weather slides today, shit tonnes of traction, couldn't get the back end to power slide at all, just wheelied out of turns.
I found I really don't like bar risers (7/8") at all for slow speed stuff, gp8 specifically. its great off road and standing , but pa king lot stuff really suffered right at apex and directly after. felt like I was wrestling a bull down instead of just pushing the bike over. ya know?
man, I really want to put some sliders on the scooter and bend it around the cones some. still apprehensive of how well I'll jump off it if/when it gets dropped.
I guess your on the DR? Yup, the trailies get light at the front between turns. Too get the bike to drop at the apex you need to be on the brakes & counter steering but with a positive throttle. It will drop like a brick. If your pushing your fighting, which is my problem, I don't have the confidence to let the physics do the job, on the brakes to turn, off the brakes to let the bike come up again. Sounds easy, huh?
I do have a few questions regarding the explenation about the Jink.
* Must the frontwheel be ON or OVER the line?
* What about the rear wheel? May it cross the line?
* What are theother Adachi Special Obstacles ?
The only requirement is for the front wheel to TOUCH the line so it doesn't matter if the line is crossed or the whole bike goes over it. Doing anything other than just nicking the line wil be costly in time, but missing it entireley might be even more costly which is why the degree of skill required to make the best of this obstacle is quite high.
There are a large number of Adachi Special obstacles, but the more esoteric of them only tend to be used only when the riders involved have a great deal of practice under their belts. The Jink (in singles or multiples) is the most commonly used because it is quite easy for even a novice to understand.
Found this nice little video of one of our Japanese friends GP8-ing in slow motion. If you want to see lots more videos of GP8 sessions from Japan, you will need to type these characters into the Youtube search. ８の字
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Yeppers. I was really surprised just how odd the 7/8" or so rise made things feel. The bike still falls easily like you mentioned, but it feels less stable while doing so, needs more throttle to keep from dropping it on the ground.
Hopefully we can nab some more interesting obstacles from their videos :)
More leverage, greater motion from your input?
On a sprot bike with clip on's It takes a lot more input to turn than it does the TDM or DT, the TDM needs a lot more input than the DT. The DT just flops around like a drunk.
Where can I find a list or information about them?
I'm in the process of collating the Adachi Special Obstacles into a section of the Obstacle catalogue. Although I have got quite a few diagrams now, some of them are so obscure I have to ask Mr Adachi how they should be ridden otherwise nobody will be any the wiser!
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