Handlebar mounted MC w/ ATE front end

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by JonnyCash, Nov 15, 2011.

  1. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    I keep chiming in on other people's "my ATE brakes suck" threads about what a great improvement the handlebar mounted MC has been. A few people have asked what I did to implement it, so here we go. I used a 13mm Magura MC, which I bought from Economy Cycle, where I get all my parts for my RD350. It cost about $110 and I like the look of it, though someday I'll get a more attractive pinch bolt for it. I had an extra lever perch/ throttle and chopped off the lever perch portion of it. The middle picture shows the least flattering angle of the surgery, but in real life you'd never notice what had happened. With this removed, the /5 style throttle and the new MC nestled together as if it were meant to be, and all that remained was to come up with a brake line to make it all go together. I ended up using a put-it-together yourself brake line out of parts offered by Goodridge. BMW uses what I think is called an inverted bubble flare, which I found unavailable in Goodridge's line of fittings, so I had a local garage make a new hard line( the one that goes from the caliper up to the top of the fork slider) with a BMW style inverted bubble on the caliper end, and an inverted conventional flare on the other to mate with the end of the new braided line. It was a real frustrating pain in the ass involving a lot of running around, but I live in an area very poor in speed shops and the like. I imagine that if that were not the case, I could have easily had something made up to suit. Anyhow the results were worth the trouble, as the brakes are much better than before. I wouldn't say that they are up to the best that modern bikes have to offer, but their limits are better than mine. In normal stops, two fingers are plenty, and the feel is good. I think all told, I spent $160 or so. I hope this will help someone else. I'd think that if you wanted to do this on a dual-disk front end, you might want to get a MC with a bigger piston, I think the stock one is 16 or 17mm. I feel that it's a good thing to go a small step down in piston size, as it makes the braking action happen over a longer range of lever travel, giving lower effort and better modulation. Now get to work everyone!



    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    #1
  2. wirewrkr

    wirewrkr the thread-killer

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    Super clean, Mike.
    Awesome.
    #2
  3. craydds

    craydds Long timer

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    Very good job. I may try that on my '74 R90/6 that my son and I are starting to restore; it's going to be my son's bike. My '75 R90S has different switches and I think they make a master cylinder that bolts right on. Thanks for your information.
    #3
  4. Caddy82rats

    Caddy82rats Long timer

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    Clever idea !
    I've done the same setup with a MV F4 MC, back in days (19mm). Too hard feeling on brake lever
    I've tried also a CBR 900 (16mm), ideal feeling on brake lever.
    Magura 13mm (BMW) give me aproximativly the same feeling as the 900 CBR in 16mm
    #4
  5. knary

    knary sunshine and puppies

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    I'm sorry, that's entirely too simple and direct. Are you sure you own an airhead? :lol3

    :thumb
    #5
  6. craydds

    craydds Long timer

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    When I get into with the '74 R90/6 make-over, I will bug you for intricate details.
    #6
  7. twostroke312

    twostroke312 Been here awhile

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    This is JUST what I was looking for! This will definitely help me - thanks! Let's see how difficult it will be to put together a line...
    #7
  8. wirewrkr

    wirewrkr the thread-killer

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    Talk to BMWRENCH (inmate) about the line. His company makes them.
    #8
  9. supershaft

    supershaft because I can

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    That's the brand of fittings that I have never seen anyone not use: Goodridge. From what I have noticed, every brake line brand out there uses Goodridge fittings. I don't understand what fitting Goodridge doesn't make JC? I have never come across anything BMW specific while making brake lines for BMW. I have always got them through Earls and they have always had everything I needed.
    #9
  10. lemieuxmc

    lemieuxmc Banned

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    I'm interested in converting the under-tank mc. I want it to look the same, just work better. Anyone done this?
    #10
  11. rpt

    rpt Been here awhile

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    Use a master cyl from a later R100 fits works and looks factory
    #11
  12. JLeather

    JLeather Bike Butcherer

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    I have an earle's fork that's been modified for a Honda CB750 disc-brake front wheel I was thinking of running on my VW conversion bike (just too darn heavy for the stock brake /2 front brake, which wasn't great to begin with). I imagine the /2 throttle is fairly similar? I was wondering how I could get an m/c on the bars without having to change throttle housings.
    #12
  13. twostroke312

    twostroke312 Been here awhile

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    Is that a 90 degree bend fitting I see at the banjo bolt?
    #13
  14. twostroke312

    twostroke312 Been here awhile

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    I had to take this brilliant idea and copy it. The difference in braking is superb, as jonnycash mentioned. My 14MM factory MC + SS line will be up for sale if anyone is interested. Oh and a big thanks to BMWRENCH for helping me with the brake line setup.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #14
  15. Hawk Medicine

    Hawk Medicine Coyote's Brother

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    Brilliant!
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  16. knary

    knary sunshine and puppies

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    In progress (posted in the other thread). Santa brought me a handlebar brake master. I wonder if my MiL had any idea what it was. :lol3

    To get it to fit, the stock assembly needed to be modified. What it mostly looked like (for those unfamiliar):
    [​IMG]

    After a little zen time with the dremel:
    [​IMG]

    For those debating between the Nissin/Shindy master ($125-$140 and includes the brake switch) or the Magura (roughly $90 + $10 for brake switch), this is the Nissin/Shindy. The clamp won't fit under the throttle cable proboscis thingie without forcing the controls to be rotated far forward (or the brake far back). Either a different clamp or some modification and it might work.
    [​IMG]

    Not bad for what will be $100-140 + the cost of a brake line and some fittings, and work better than the stock arrangement.
    #16
  17. Hawk Medicine

    Hawk Medicine Coyote's Brother

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    I dunno....

    This is beginning to look like a long way to go to avoid using a factory part and the cost is about the same.

    That last installation looks very awkward to me and because of that, I'd almost certainly convert to a set of R100 controls on both sides and be done with it. Really.
    #17
  18. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    I hate to sound like a smart ass, but why did you go with the Nissen when it cost more and doesn't fit as well? Twostroke 312, nice job! It's flattering to see someone else use my rig, but you did a cleaner job of it, I must say. Next time I have things apart, I'll have to spend a little more time dressing things with the die grinder to make mine look as good as yours. It's easy to overestimate what will be hidden by a coat of paint. What are those grips you have? Me like dem.
    #18
  19. knary

    knary sunshine and puppies

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    I'm returning the Nissen. I had no way of knowing it wouldn't fit until I tried it. As to the extra $25, that came with adjustable reach, a higher quality of finish, and a black brake lever. Besides, it was santa's money. :D
    #19
  20. knary

    knary sunshine and puppies

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    Or not.

    An R100's stock throttle assembly has the cables exiting further back (towards the front wheel) than the previous design. The Magura doesn't work any better than the Nissen/Shindy and might fit worse. I could, of course, just rotate the throttle assembly, but then the switches end up in a peculiar location.

    Note how the cable thingamagig bumps into the reservoir. Compare this to what you see on the the older bikes.

    [​IMG]

    vs.

    [​IMG]

    :bluduh

    "I'm saving money"
    "I'm saving money"
    "I'm saving money"
    "I'm saving money"
    "I'm saving money"

    :lol3

    I'm going to scratch my head a little.

    FWIW, here is how the two visually compare. The Nissen/Shindy unit definitely seems like the better made item.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #20