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Discussion in 'Vendors' started by Grok, Jun 27, 2011.
I think you will be happy with your purchase!
Any idea on the price difference between the 2 and 4 cylinder version?
I need to decide which one to go for.
It's too early to nail it down. 4-cylinder version will likely be somewhere in the $175 ballpark. I'm trying to make it lower, but I can't commit to a price just yet!
There isn't anymore
And the six-cylinder version for folks with vintage Honda CBX's?
I actually thought about a six cylinder version for a couple of seconds. CBX, Valkyrie, and some older Porsches were the only few applications I could think of. Not much of a market there.
I also thought about a modular approach where ports could be added to a base unit. But it got complicated quickly and caused the costs to go up too much.
There was a fellow in Sweden that tuned a 12 cylinder Jaguar (4 Stromberg carbs) using the Harmonizer in a very inventive way. I think I might do a video tuning a Valkyrie with the Harmonizer at some point.
I think you know I was kidding, Grok...
But you know, it's funny you mentioning that 12-cylinder Jaguar. Back in the early '80s we used to actually synch the Weber sidedraft carbs on a 1973 Ferrari 365 GTC/4...
Using three sets of inline-four rack vacuum gauges hung on the back edge of the hood (it hinges forward). We calibrated all 12 individual gauges as best we could from a know vacuum source, making reference marks on each one, and then hooked 'em all up and went to work. Actually, it worked wonderfully, even if it did look rather like spaghetti with all those hoses hanging all over the place...
Thanks for bringing back the memory!
I was using the Harmonizer on my Ural Patrol this afternoon, I had done it a week ago with my Twinmax but wanted to fine tune it. OK I wanted to play with my new toy. Everything was close, as expected. Adjusted idle and off idle with no problems. Went back to fine tune idle speed and suddenly the display went to -155 mbar and no RPMs. :huh Disconnected the hoses, they are clear and no leaks as they hold oral applied pressure. Reconnected and let it zero, all it does is read 000 mbar. Tried it on my R1100R, which I did with the Harmonizer on Saturday, with the same results, 000 mbar.
That is called infant mortality, and refers to a component dying during the first 2-3 weeks of use (±).
It happens, thankfully, rarely.
I am sending you a PM confirm your address. I'll expedite one out to you immediately.
I'd appreciate you returning the defective unit to me so I can do a fault analysis!
I had one unit fail like this during the field testing phase.
I cracked open the sensor and found the manufacturer had missed a sealing step during assembly.
It was as if a goop dispenser (fancy technical term) had run empty during sensor assembly.
I have put a pulsed overpressure test in place to catch this type of defect, but obviously one got through.
We'll get you fixed up immediately.
I just made a purchase as well. Basically looking forward to better balancing!
Clearly, customer service will not be an issue! Good to know and cements my purchase for this month. :)
I just ordered one a few minutes ago. All the good reviews here, made it hard for me to resist.
I will ship the defective unit tomorrow. Thanks for your excellent service.
I shipped the replacement unit today (Priority).
Thanks for the feedback and the patience!
Thanks for that!
Customer service is my top priority.
Even as I improve test methods and quality control, with a device of this nature, there will be the occasional failure.
What makes the difference is what I do about it when it happens!
Customers need not be concerned about getting stuck with a defective unit.
Well....I'm glad to hear that as this is going to sound like deja vu.
I received the unit yesterday (8 days to PA under the old shipping method) but didn't even turn it on 'til today. I like the compact size, light weight and easy to understand display. It was simple to secure to my speedometer face with just a rubber band. All was well for the first 4 or five minutes while I rode the bike around the block for warm up. It was nice being able to easily read the display while underway. The smiley face let me know my old homemade manometer worked fairly well and the digital indicator let me know there was still a little room for improvement.
Arriving home to set the idle speed, the tachometer was appreciated as my bike does not have one and evidently setting by ear put me 100-120 rpms higher than spec. I began to lower the idle in small increments and alternating sides.
That is when it just stopped working. Same description, all the readouts and LED function but it measures 000 mbar.
The Urals must be doing them in.
You're covered. PM sent.
I'm looking forward to determining the fault so I can make sure tests are in place to catch them!