Harmonizer Vacuum Multi-Tool -- It ain't your Daddy's Twinmax

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by Grok, Jun 27, 2011.

  1. Grok

    Grok Long timer

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    Technically a 1200GS should be within +/- 25mbar at idle when at full operating temperature.

    How far off is it?
  2. Dark Helmet

    Dark Helmet Been here awhile

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    Don't recall the exact number, but the bar was within 1/4 to 3/6 inch or so of right hand edge of display. When I gave it gas it pulled it in to the center. Seemed odd to me but figured I would rather have it out at idle than at speed. Not sure what it can be. Only have 20k miles on it. Just ran some sea foam through it to clean out fuel system. Runs fine.
  3. Grok

    Grok Long timer

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    As you know the idle RPM and balance is controlled by the stepper motors.

    The bike has separate O2 sensors and cylinder head temperature sensors for each cylinder. The ECU uses the steppers to warm up the bike (like an automatic choke), and compensate for altitude and temperature.

    The ECU control algorithm to control the steppers isn't completely understood. It does use O2 sensor and cylinder head temp sensor information. There is some data to suggest the relative stepper positions change at idle, but the steppers move in lockstep with each other at higher RPM's.

    If the valves are adjusted properly and the bike is running fine I wouldn't be too concerned about it. Especially if you connected and disconnected the Harmonizer while the bike was running. The temporary vacuum leak(s) could have caused an offset that the ECU will eventually correct.

    Here's a link to an interesting thread regarding stepper parking and calibrating. It's still a bit of a controversial subject.

    http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=575279&page=1
  4. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    Sounds like you either have a vacuum leak, or one of your throttle cables has no slack in it.

    Jim :brow
  5. johnjen

    johnjen I've Been Resigned

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    Here is an idea that may help.

    With the engine off, open and then close the throttle quickly enough to hear the throttle body shaft cams hit their stops. You should hear one single click as both cylinders stop at the same time. If there are 2 separate clicks then one cylinder opens before the other. If you are comfortable with fussing with this, adjust the slack in the throttle cables so that 2 things happen.
    1. both TB's open and close as one
    AND
    2. there is sufficient slack in both cables (BMW spec is 1-2 mm I THINK*) when the throttle is closed.

    Doing this won't harm anything if it doesn't help, but it may reduce the idle offset vacuum difference.

    (* I am pulling this number from memory and someone may chime in with verification of the REAL spec number)

    JJ
  6. Grok

    Grok Long timer

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    Wow, you must have that old oilhead tweaked within an inch of its life!
    Nice work!
  7. johnjen

    johnjen I've Been Resigned

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    Once you get them 'used to' being that closely matched they tend to stay that way. I haven't touched the valves for over a year, and that was a very small adjustment made on the road at WestFest. And the TB's were last fussed with during the ßeta testing.

    JJ
  8. simmonsk133

    simmonsk133 Adventurer

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    Hi,
    I want one too. PM Sent. Thanks, Ken
  9. David_Moen

    David_Moen Long timer

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    I received mine today. My water manometer told me I was "close enough". The fluid levels pulsed enough that it was impossible to know if it was bang on or not. When I checked with the Harmonizer, it was borderline "smiley face". Now I have it zeroed at 4K rpm, very easy to do with this tool. I have a some miles to put on tomorrow (my bike is a service vehicle weather permitting!) and I am looking forward to seeing if I can tell the difference.

    Like another poster, at idle, the indicator swings right quite a ways. I noticed this with my manometer as well.

    Nice widget!
  10. Skinny Moose

    Skinny Moose Adventurer

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    I just received mine this morning, thanks for the fast shipping. I`ll probably try it out this weekend. :freaky
  11. Dark Helmet

    Dark Helmet Been here awhile

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    JVB,

    I ran a quick check again last night and to answer Grok's question, its registering +30 - 40. Only places I can think of a vacuum leak would be on the vacuum tube itself, the intake manifold and perhaps the rubber o-ring on the fuel injector. Didn't have time to check all three but the manifold looks to be in very good shape but can't see the back side.

    As Johnjen suggested, checked to see if the slides are hitting together and they seem to be. I need to go back and look at it but there may not be 1-2mm of slack in either cable. Didn's spend much time on this but that might be the case. Will look at it tonight again.
  12. FixxiT

    FixxiT Lunitic Fringe

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    Got mine today. :clap

    Fantastic piece of kit! Much Impressed :thumb
  13. Davis53

    Davis53 Been here awhile

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    I have a 2009 R1200GSA, to do a sync is this correct?

    Warm engine.
    Connect sync device.
    Remove the plugs for the steppers motors.
    Start engine.
    Sync engine at speed above idle, 2000 rpm, 2500 rpm, etc. with the cable on the right throttle body.
    Shutdown engine, remove sync device, connect stepper plugs.

    The steppers set idle speed and idle sync.

    Is this procedure correct?
  14. Killa Meter

    Killa Meter Been here awhile

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    Ordered mine today ,thanks.
  15. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    A fast way to check for localized leaks is to hit the spot with some starter fluid. If the RPMs change, then you found it.

    Jim :brow
  16. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    Pretty much. Here is the process: http://www.jimvonbaden.com/R1200_TB_Sync.html

    Use the Harmonizer instead of the Twinmax.

    Jim :brow
  17. Droptarotter

    Droptarotter Long timer

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    Mine has been ordered..........thank you! This will be the first time in 37 years of owning BMW's that I will try something other than mercury gauges.

    Thanks
  18. troy_mp

    troy_mp Adventurer

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    Grok:

    I'm considering buying one of your "Harmonizers". What kind of batteries does the unit use? Are they rechargeables or replaceables? If the former what method, if any, is included for recharging?

    With appreciation,

    Troy
  19. Grok

    Grok Long timer

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    It's a 9V alkaline battery. Non-rechargeable primary battery.

    [​IMG]

    Anticipated battery life is as follows (cut from specifications in first post page 1)

    Typical current consumption and battery life (based on fresh Alkaline battery 500mA/hr 23C)

    basic functions backlight off 11mA 45hrs
    basic functions backlight on 16mA 31hrs
    beacon mode (backlight on) 25mA 20hrs
    LED on (backlight on) 34mA 15 hrs

    for most people the battery life is essentially the shelf life, at 4-5 years.

    If you use the unit professionally, or if you use the LED functions extensively, you may need to replace the battery more often.

    9V Lithium batteries can be used and will yield 2-3 times the battery life, but are expensive.
    Standard 9V "Heavy Duty" carbon zinc batteries may also be used, but the battery life will be shorter.
  20. troy_mp

    troy_mp Adventurer

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