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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by D.T., Jan 23, 2013.
Didn't work well at all on the windsheild. Oh well, only $22.
Make sure the mechanic takes it for a test drive in valet mode afterwards to make sure all the operating parts work
That's about 115 amps at 13 volts. Good luck.
Assuming 100% inverter efficiency... Which it isn't.
I'm fucked. So what gauge wire do I need, 2 gauge? Damn, should be around 0 degrees when I get out of here.
The defroster, even on cold, should be enough to keep the windshield clear on the inside. God help you if you've got frost/ice buildup on the outside though.
As far as keeping warm goes, you've got a heated jacket, right? Plug in, turn on, and tune out!
Buy 10' of heater hose in both sizes and pipe it through the passenger window to your shiny new heater core. Strap a 12VDC fan to the side opposite the hose fittings and build a baffle out of cardboard to keep the whole thing off the floor so air can pass through. Tape up the gap in the window. That should give you plenty of heat. Do the real fix in the spring.
sorry you are wrong
would have to agree with above for almost all radiator sealants, except one.... Bars Leak ... don't know about now, but years back was commonly used by several OEM on brand new motors to seal minor leaks. Sold Bars Leak for 10+ years... not one come back or complaint. installed on butt load of engines...never had a problem one... vs other types or radiator sealer... all sorts of complaints and problems... quit selling anything but Bars Leak.
no sealer will do major leaks, that takes removal and fix. I'd install Bars Leak as a last resort. if it doesn't seal, then leak is too large and heater core has to come out.
in the meanwhile bypass ... would be the shits operating at those temps without a defroster. never mind the heater...
Got a suggestion to go here and DIY... www.firstgeargarage.com
Seems pretty cool! $35 an hour to use a heated space....
-4 deg F for the ride home!
I blew a heater core in my 2001 f-150... was a $1150 job at the dealer, found a independent mechanic to do it for $800. It worked great for 6 months, and then leaked again - defective part. They warrantied the $50 part, but the $750 labor was all me, again. If it happens again, I'm headed to the nearest cliff to take care of it Thelma & Louise style...
Good luck with the repair... good thing it is not all that cold in MN in the dead of winter... oh, wait. Nevermind.
Your independant ass raped you. Parts suppliers will compensate labor to the garage. Sorry
Keeping a heater core in good shape REQUIRES the use of enough anti-corrosion additives for protection. All "decent" antifreezes contain these, but the cheap green stuff's silicates don't last too long, ~2 years tops.
Run it at 50% and change it every 2 years and that's about all you can do. I'd avoid the orange stuff, it usually works but there's too many horror stories for me.
For my "good" engines I use the $26/gal Toyota red antifreeze (has lots of corrosion-fighting phosphates that last many years--no silicates), but you MUST use only distilled/very soft water with it.
I called that first gear garage and they said I have to evacuate the freon from the A/C system for a heater core replacement?? :huh Haynes manual says nothing of the sort.
I found another 2000 GMC Jimmy for $3600 I'm going to look at Saturday. Freeze my ass off until then...
No personal experience with the following but I've heard some people advise to call a few local high school tech schools and see if they want to do the repair. If they have a auto mechanics curriculum, you might get lucky. Might get you some heat for less money.
Do you really want the 17YO crackhead working on your ride???
You can buy. A generic radiator/heater core with a fan used for aux heaters in busses etc.
In canada they cost about $20 at princess auto, our version of harbor freight. Just plum in 4' of hose and put the lot on the dash.
If stop leak is so bad why do all GM cars get it from the factory? Or at lease used to a few years ago. Heck the older caddies used to get a double dose.
"cadillac tabs" are brown pellets sold by GM dealers and are sometimes used to solve seepage problems in cooling systems. I doubt they'd solve a corroded heater core, but for the $3/tab it can't hurt much to try 'em.
Pour a half bottle of ground Ginger (the spice) in the radiator and drive on. Best DIY stop leak out there...and it wont leave your water pump FUBARed.
That's the main ingredient in the Bars Leaks tablets.