HELP ! Airhead GSPD Paralever Fairing R&R

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by rwiles, Jan 15, 2010.

  1. rwiles

    rwiles Been here awhile

    Jan 5, 2006
    RE: A previous post about a fogged-up headlight shell, I might need to remove the front fairing from my 1994 R100GSPD. Anyone know how? Anyone done it? Is it a bitch?

    One of my manuals says that the fairing comes off intact, and is then worked on and serviced upside down on a bench (guages, dash-bulbs, etc) and to unbolt the Roo bars from the frame (downtubes), and then take out the big mutha allen capscrew in the middle bottom front of the Roo bar, and lift it off. Two-man job. The manual says that the harness(s?) disconnect from each other. Izzat so? Is it a bitch?

    Does one remove it intact? Or disassemble it piecemeal off the bike. It doesn't appear that is possible.

    Of course, the speedo cable has to be undone, and that is a bitch in itself.

    Any other issues? Better ways?
  2. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

    Mar 16, 2004
    Shoreline, WA
    You can pull the wind screen, unbolt the turn signal, remove the screws and take of the side fairing seperately and leave the center section of the fairing... access to the headlamp shell will still be difficult, but that may be an easier way to tackle this job.
  3. AntonLargiader

    AntonLargiader Long timer

    Aug 28, 2003
    Charlottesville, VA
    Start cursing now; maybe you'll finish by the time the bike is back together.
  4. jackd

    jackd Long timer

    Dec 9, 2006
    The Island
    I did my headlight removal ('94 R100GS) without reading the book so I am going to ignore their suggestions and give you my two bits. I've been in this area several times and this is what I do. You might get away with only pulling the side fairings off and leaving the center faring in place - no Roo bar removal required. Undo the tach cable on the L/H side as that is now right in front of you - be careful because the fitting on the back of the tach is plastic. Undo the knurled hold down nuts for the speedo & tach and remove them completely. You should now be looking at the back of your headlight through the holes formerly occupied by your gauges.

    The headlight frame is a two piece affair and is somewhat delicate. The forward part is a frame mounted to the fairing/Roo bar. The headlight bulb is attached to a rear frame which is mounted to the front frame by two delicate adjustment assemblies (one for up/down, another for left/right). These adjustment assemblies break easily (I was in there initially because one of mine was broken and a P/O had bodged a repair). I would not try to split this rear frame from the front frame in situ because you might break it. I would remove the bolts holding the front frame from the fairing/Roo bar and take it out as a complete assembly. All in all, an tedious job and I am a mechanic by trade.

    When you have the headlight assembly out on the bench, give the adjustment mechanisms a look over for wear/damage. Now is the time to replace the bits that break - BMW sells them still. Some guys put the springs on the headlight adjustment screws, but I chose to cut them in half before I installed them because I figured they were putting too much strain on the delicate mechanicsms. So far no problems. Just take your time and this can all be done in a few hours. I hope that this isn't too muddled.
  5. opposedcyljunkie

    opposedcyljunkie Heavyweight Boxer

    Feb 20, 2007
    By the Lake
    I chose to remove the lower left spring because the headlight won't point down as much with a spring even when fully-compressed. What a PITA to go through the fairing twice!
  6. Toyanvil

    Toyanvil Adventurer

    Feb 8, 2004
    Bakersfield CA
  7. Grider Pirate

    Grider Pirate Long timer

    Sep 28, 2007
    LV, NV
    I ran through every curseword and phrase I ever knew a dozen times while changing ONE bulb in the intsrument panel!! A pure f'ing joy to work on!