Help me remove a stuck outer wheel bearing race.

Discussion in 'Equipment' started by Hollywood, Feb 24, 2007.

  1. Hollywood

    Hollywood Been here awhile

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    The bike: 2001 DRZ400e

    The bearing: Front wheel, non-speedo drive side (left if you're sitting on the bike)

    The what: Trying to push out the shot wheel bearing and the inner race popped free, and out along with the bearings and leaving behind the outer race stuck to the inner-circumference of the hub.

    Tips for removal w/out paying somebody at the stealership, or a machine shop to remove it? I've tried tapping with a flat blade driver and using a race removal tool, but no luckie.

    thanks,
    Mike:freaky
    #1
  2. Scottysix9

    Scottysix9 Shhh...

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    Use a long tapered punch from the opposite side. And use a heavy hammer, at least a pound. Hit it like it owes you money. One pop will loosen it enough to move the bearing spacer out of the way so you alternate hits, 180 degress apart. It will work it's way out. Use man tools, not a screwdriver and a lil' ball peen.

    If that doesn't work, borrow your Mom's Dremel, buy some cutoff wheels for it and cut a groove, almost to the hub. Whack it hard with a chisel and that will relieve the stress and it will fall out. If you go a bit far and slice into the hub, sand the high points down before installing the new bearing.

    You know how to install a bearing properly, right?
    #2
  3. kellyk7

    kellyk7 Who knows

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    +1 on the dremel tool act, we used a die grinder to cut a groove to relieve preassure and they just about fall out
    #3
  4. daGeeeze

    daGeeeze Geeezed lightning

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    Before doing any damage I'd try warming up the entire assembly pretty hot. Something like a propane torch would do. Then when it's all good and warm rub the offending race with ice. It might just fall out.
    #4
  5. Scottysix9

    Scottysix9 Shhh...

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    No. It won't.
    #5
  6. Scottysix9

    Scottysix9 Shhh...

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    Replace both bearings and their seals.

    "If you're gonna do something, do it right"- my mom.
    #6
  7. GreaseMonkey

    GreaseMonkey Preshrunk & Cottony

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    If you can you get at it from the opposite side, I find the best tool is an old 3/8" extension, hit the drive end with the hammer and use the female end to hook the exposed rim of the outer race and drive it out like that.
    #7
  8. Hollywood

    Hollywood Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the replies. Yep, I know how to set a bearing and I have Man tools, one especially useful one :evil , I've just never dealt with a bearing coming apart the way this one has and I do have new bearings and a new oil seal to go in.

    I had the idea of using a cutoff wheel to notch it and then bust it free with a chisel or a heavy drift but I was concerned about the inner hub surface. Like you said the if there are any high points I can smooth them with a rounded file prior to pressing in the bearing.

    thanks for the replies.

    Mike:D
    #8
  9. katbeanz

    katbeanz earthbound misfit, I

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    I have a bunch of small conveyor rolls that when the bearing fails you end up with the outer race still in there.
    What I do, and use this method at your own risk, is run a bead of weld on the inside of it, it will work with mig but works best stick welding.
    As the weld cools it shrinks the race along with it and they normally just fall out with a tap on the side of the workbench. :deal
    #9
  10. Dolly Sod

    Dolly Sod I want to do right, but not right now

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    As for the dremmel method, you may have to cut many grooves to get it to release.. If you cut one and try to wack it nothing will happen, as what you are doing is forcing the bearing to expand outward from the cut but the hub will give the bearing support and no crack will happen. Several deep cuts around the perimeter will give you better results.

    Just be careful not to cut into the hub.
    #10
  11. Dolly Sod

    Dolly Sod I want to do right, but not right now

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    Do you need to run a bead all the way around, or just a couple of inches?
    #11
  12. GSPD750

    GSPD750 Adventurer

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    Know anyone with a blind bearing puller set that you could borrow from.
    Slide hammer the SOB right outa there.

    [​IMG]
    #12
  13. Ricardo Kuhn

    Ricardo Kuhn a.k.a. Mr Rico Suave

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    Do you have a welder, any welder...!?!?

    ussually they just come off just by welding on them, don't ask me why, it works.

    but if that is not the case just weld any piece of metal as a bridge in between the two sides of the races (on the metal oviuslly, just cut a piece of anything and weld it one) and then you will have a surface to push aka hammer the S^^t out of it.

    oviuslly heating the hub help to expend the aluminum too.
    #13
  14. daGeeeze

    daGeeeze Geeezed lightning

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    Ah. That's the procedure I was told. I found out the backwards way when I tried to weld some kind of tang into a bearing race so I could drive it out. The one I was dealing with had NO lip to catch. I finally got a washer welded into the race, flipped the wheel over, and the bearing fell out. Now that you've reminded me I need to anchor that in my brain this time.
    #14
  15. Hollywood

    Hollywood Been here awhile

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    #15
  16. Grumpy

    Grumpy Grumpy

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    This works 100% providing you have a arc welder and can weld.
    #16
  17. Hollywood

    Hollywood Been here awhile

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    No welder... looks like it is time to learn. I've had a number of occasions lately that I've farmed out that could've been done at home.

    What to buy for home use...?
    #17
  18. Possu

    Possu de-nOObed!

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  19. katbeanz

    katbeanz earthbound misfit, I

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    I usually go all the way around for dramatic effect, it doesn't have to be pretty and 6011 or junkyard rod works pretty good.
    These are steel rolls so obviously you don't want to accidently weld the race in place.
    As I said use it at your own risk, I don't know how it might effect your hub. I would imagine you would want to have your ground clamp right on the race.
    With an aluminum hub you don't have to worry about accidently welding the race in place.
    I think it was motion pro that makes a tool for steering head races, spring steel fingers that pop out and grip the edge of the race, I think I'd rather weld it. :wink:
    #19
  20. xtphreak

    xtphreak from B4 "adventure bikes"

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    just a minor point here

    :dunno about DRZ bearings, but EVERY bearing I replace I get the number off the old one (or look at a new one and let the dealer keep it)

    call your local bearing house

    ask for an SKF or Timken and get double sealed (both sides)

    usually they're less expensive and better quality

    and no mo re-greasing after a mud ride
    #20