Help with oill filter removal!!!

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by qman8, Jan 1, 2013.

  1. marty hill

    marty hill The Energizer Bunny

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    Correct, you beat me to it. Even his interval for changing is wrong. Looks like an ad for his fave oil.
    #61
  2. qman8

    qman8 2015 GSA

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    This tool is $45 USD at the dealer!!!!
    #62
  3. qman8

    qman8 2015 GSA

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    As I stated previously, the 3-finger tool (from Autozone) fit...but when i put a bunch of torque on it with a 1/2" ratchet, one finger bent and then snapped off! Trust me...this sucker is ON there!
    #63
  4. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    Use the alternative, now available at places like Autozone. I use a www.marcparnes.com unit that is about $25, but machined out of solid aluminum.

    Jim :brow
    #64
  5. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    Cheaper at Beemer Boneyard or go to an autoparts store and ask for a Lisle 54760, about $10.00. KD Tools also has the same, forgot to lift the number when I was at the autoparts store.
    #65
  6. bigjohn66

    bigjohn66 Been here awhile

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    A friend just traded for an 1100GS and when he got it home he wanted to change the oil. By the time he had called me to ask how to remove the old filter it was too late to try the screws-through-the-metal-cup trick. When I first saw it the whole bottom of the filter was mangled and half gone. All I could think to do at that point was to remove the innerds and try to remove the top threaded plate somehow. This filter turned out to be a Walmart SuperTech brand and was actually quite well made. I had originally thought it was a BMW one because of the black paint on the can and the quality of the filtration material.

    We first tried tapping it out with not a chisel (too short,) but an old stout but longish screwdriver using one of the oil inlet holes forming a ring in top plate. The problem with a chisel on these is that because of the recessed area you only get a bad angle and you need to limit your applied force for fear of going through the top plate and damaging the crankcase. This was a real fear after reading some time ago the story of someone who punched a hole through the filter and into the motor. Also, because of the rubber square sealing o-ring, much of the force is absorbed and we got no movement of the plate. I made witness marks with a sharpie on the center oil outlet and the adjacent part on the filter plate so I could tell if I started getting movement. Hammering got none.

    My next (and successful) idea was to plug the center outlet pipe with a clean rag and then carefully drill
    two opposite inlet holes out to 1/4". Be very carefull not to go too deep. Just barely through the top plate, no more. This allowed me to insert into them a pair of strong screwdrivers and then angle them against one another to twist on the plate. This took considerable force but ultimately worked. The square o-ring was mushroomed on top where the filter had been torqued extremely tightly. Never seen one done that hard. Had this been at my house I probably would have made up a tool similar to one earlier described that would have had a nut welded to a circular plate with pins set into the other side to engage the inlet oil holes. Hope this helps by giving different ideas.
    #66
  7. kimokk

    kimokk Been here awhile

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    Still cheaper than taking it to the dealer to have them remove it now after buggering it all up! :rofl
    #67
  8. GSgeorge

    GSgeorge Adventurer

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    Johnny80s is right! I use these almost every time i remove a filter,Channel Lock 460 model. Just remove the skid plate mount,and they will get in there just fine:1drinkThey are 16 1/2 inches long
    #68
  9. Bill-66

    Bill-66 Hencho in Kansas

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    You're right...I always run mine 10,000 before changing..throwing good oil away is silly.
    #69
  10. def

    def Ginger th wonder dog

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    ....and costly.

    Good oil lasts ~10,000 miles in a boxer and costs about $25.00 for a gallon jug. With a filter (~$10.00) you're looking at $35.00 for an oil change.
    #70
  11. Gezerbike

    Gezerbike Hey Rocky...........

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    Everybody knows this is nowhere......
    If you really are going to try and chisel or punch or whatever to remove what's left of the filter, you might want to give some thought to laying the bike on its' side. With the bike on a center stand, even if you have a lift table, it's going to be pretty difficult to hit a chisel or whatever so that the force is not going up, which would be a bad thing. Laying the bike down will give you a much better view of what you are doing.
    #71
  12. WindSailor

    WindSailor Been here awhile

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    Just to stir this a little more...

    Try some heat - heat up the base of the filter and try it again. Maintain constant pressure and wait (too much heat I think would or could actually be worse than not using it - so be careful).

    Most of my rubber seals remain on the base anyway (and it is lubed prior to installing)... so if you can break the seal on the filter itself you might be able to get it off.

    Seriously I had to use the custom fluted wrench with another one similar to a big set of needle nose pliers at the base to get the first one off. Don't get the plastic fluted ones some dealerships sell - done that route.
    #72
  13. qman8

    qman8 2015 GSA

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    Looking at the picture on page 2 of this thread, and my own experience, I really can't see how you'd ever get those channel-locks on opposite sides of that filter! Hell, you cant even get a thick strap wrench between the cooling fins and the filter!

    Are you saying that you can get enough grip on the exposed (about 90 degrees or so) of the outside of the filter??
    #73
  14. qman8

    qman8 2015 GSA

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    Would you recommend a hot-air gun to apply heat?? Certainly dont think you'd want to use a torch!!!
    #74
  15. GSgeorge

    GSgeorge Adventurer

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    Yes you can get a grip on the exposed part of the filter,I do it all the time.You just need a slight turn to break it free,I don't know how much of your filter is left,but its worth a try. You won't scratch the engine using this method,you may need to squeeze the filter if its bad,just be carefull.When you get it off,screw the next one on by hand(no tools).
    #75
  16. Kiwi Tinkerer

    Kiwi Tinkerer Ross

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    Screw driver and hammer will still be the easiest in this situation. The base of the filter is where it is strongest.
    #76
  17. WindSailor

    WindSailor Been here awhile

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    Try the hot-air gun (or an existing hair dryer) - good and warm should be fine - not *smoking hot*. If you burn that seal I think your problems will be worse.

    See if that helps you...
    #77
  18. oalvarez

    oalvarez Resident Raggamuffin

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    omg....does anyone read starting from the top?

    the same suggestions continue to be re-cycled over, and over, and over...

    :huh:huh:huh:huh:huh

    btw, where's the pic of what the oil filter looks like, today?
    #78
  19. WindSailor

    WindSailor Been here awhile

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    True... I still think heating it up to around 150* to 175* or so will definitely help.
    #79
  20. LaurelPerryOnLand

    LaurelPerryOnLand Long timer

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    Well, as of right now:

    2,652 have read about the problem:huh
    78 have responded with 'suggestions':huh

    BTW...I understand that the oil filter/remants thereof remain solidly in place due to freezing temps in the OP's home state.
    Perhaps we should give the OP a week or two of slack to accomplish this task...WITHOUT additional 'help' .:clap

    Otherwise the above stats will most likely grow.:eek1
    #80