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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by JimVonBaden, Nov 27, 2007.
Unfortunately I don't recall what years it was for. Mine is an 05.
Location for the f*cking charcoal canister on US bikes.
Hi everyone, I'm new to this thread and read most of the pages so far.
I am also planning to build in HID to my GSA. That means high and low beam but also the auxilary lights. The high and low beam will be no problem since I have done that more often on other bikes.
However the auxilary lights are not really clear to me. With these lights you don't have the caps to protect the unprotected connection (direct from your oem to the wires leading to the ballast). What is the best way of mounting this onto the GSA? Preferably with pictures off coourse
At work so don't have access to pictures but these twist right out of the fog light housing just like the OEM. Make sure you specify 90 degree angles on the light bulbs and it's plug and play.
Thanx! I understand, it's just like the high/low beam. Also twist right in.
However at the high/low beam the connection between the original wire and the ballast wire is behind the caps to protect it form the rain (for instance). But with the auxilary lights this is not possible. How should I make the connection between the original wire and the balast wire so that it is protected form the rain?
UPDATE: HID didn't work on my 2010 GS (LAMPF! and lo-beam plug shutdown by ZFE) and was consequently removed after trying VVME and hid50.com 35W HID kits. Now using LED aux lights.
I spent losts of time and effort trying to make HID work but didn't want to use relay hardness/error cancellers, using in the range of 100W in total. LED is the way to go.
I do like the location of the ballast, wires were long enough however the feed power cable (black-minus/blue-positive) to the ballast from the lo-beam headlight plug could have been a few inches longer so I extend the 2 wires (blue/black) ~5".
First tried the front faring mounting location on the right above the oil line to the cooler. I didn't like the little room it left for steering to clear...slim ballast would have made things easier. For lo-beam only conversion and standard ballast this "Charcoal canister on US-bikes" location worked perfectly fine for my Canadian bike.
The same thing would occur with mine until I added an inline power resistor, I suspect the "warning canceller" is just that, a resistor that adds a load so the ZFE sees there's a draw and does not shut down the circuit.
Nice write up JVB. I like the way the hid lights shine on that nice rug
has anyone tried this kit ?
It specifies the GS, but they also have the standard H7 kit for $24 !!! I wonder what the difference may be....
Their GS kit is about $60 and free shipping. I've been using the Xentec kit on my Accord, that has so-so ratings, and it's been good for the past two years. I'm looking for a personal experience with this Sportiva kit/company.
For $25 it's not a harm to try it
Yea kind of, the high/low have the wire retainer and the aux lights twist. Remember you need to reverse the wires in the wire connectors on the aux lights.
Don't know what year bike but it looks like tall guy got his in under the body panels and on my O7 gsa I have them mounted under body panels and on top of the tank area so everything is some what protected from the elements.
I've read a few comments about the cheap kits and I installed the DDM slim balists, had one balist that was bad out of the box, replaced it and have over 5k on the new light set up with out any issues.
7k miles on my VVME kit. Digital balists. No issues.
From the best that I could tell all of the stuff came out of China, more than likely the same manufacturer from China and just reboxed. And yes we are the QA dept.
The VVME digital ballast on my GSA makes no noise. The regular VVME ballast on Wifey's Disco makes noise.
Wow, 52 pages. My head is spinning. It seems that the general concensus is to go with the 35 W for low beam. Would that be a correct summary?
I just read thru the hid50.com comparison and they seem to favor the 50W.
Would that be an overkill for driving light? Please advise as I have to get something soon. The deer population in my area has multiplied exponentially, it seems, since last winter.
I want to avoid any possible CANBUS issues so I am going to go with the hid50.com. The question is which 35 or 50 and whether to go both hi and lo or is just lo sufficient enough.
I did 35w in both and am quite happy with the light output.
I did 5k (I think). I wanted white light not the blue crap.
you can flash with HID, it typically has 80% of full output so it's still brighter than halogen and the "camera flash" caracteristics really gets people's attention when passing. Remember to pull into the mirror zone before flashing if you want to get the best results.
Keep in mind, the higher the colour temp (K), the lower the light output. You get more light with 3000k (yellow- where legal) than with 5 or 6000k. Typical 55w halogen is 1100 lumens, 35 w hid is 3300lumens. 4000+ for 55w hid. I run 4300k in my main and spot lights(legal reasons), 3000k in my fog/daytime running lights (allowed by law here).
I just ordered a 55w DDM kit as well. Hope it all works out.
For those with errors after installing HIDs, I just came across these Canbus error cancellers, haven't tried them so I can't say they'd work, but if you Bing "HID Error Canceller" you'll see they are used in Canbus equipped cars.
"Also they will eliminate "Bulb out" warnings or "bulb failure warnings in Mercedes, BMW and other cars."