Highland Motors

Discussion in 'Moto Bellissima: All Other Dualsports' started by 805gregg, Apr 12, 2006.

  1. Lorretto

    Lorretto City Dweller Crushperado

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    No quite sure what's going on or how badly I screwed up.

    My shiney new Braillee battery quit two weeks ago and just got it swapped out for a replacement. The replacement battery with less than 10km on it just ran out of juice on the way home. Lucky for me it was only 1 km to go. Note to self, it is much easier to push a 400 lb bike glad it wasn't the KTM.

    Anyway, I had a bad feeling two weeks ago that it might be the stator but fiigured it had to be a bad battery. Even so, I started the wheels moving to order a stator from Highland but with so few bikes in the US they have to figure a few things out on the shipping. So it could be a while on the stator.

    I'm the first to admit I'm not much of a wrench so be gentle. My question is, if I had an otherwise healthy battery wouldn't it carry enough punch to keep the ECU and fuel pump going for a decent amount of time even if the stator was bad. I had cut the lights off as I recognized the poor running from the first time the battery quit. Second question did I screw anything up. I pretty much had to keep the throttle pinned and modulate the clutch in city traffic, probably only 4 to 5 km. Funny thing the tach didn't register which I assume takes almost no power. Lots of gurgles and pops from the pipes. After I finished pushing it home I noticed flames coming out of the back of the cans. This is after I had been pushing for ten or fifteen minutes or so.

    So am I screwed? Is there any how to anywhere on checking out if the stator has a dead short or what's involved in how to remove and replace the stator. Like I say I'm not a wrench but I'll give most anything a try as there ain't another Highland around DC that is for sure.
  2. John in Leeds

    John in Leeds Been here awhile

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    Hi John,

    seems like I had a similar problem. The flywheel rubbed through the wires from the generator shorting out and caused just the problem you describe. Generator and flywheel had to be replaced due to arc errosion on the flywheel. The battery will carry it's charge for sometime unless of course there is interference elsewhere. Take the flywheel off (I think it need a puller) and have a look. I'll try to find some more info but probably Greasy will get in first.

    Will be back soon.
  3. nice1trev

    nice1trev Adventurer

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    WoWee Captian John new bikes...many Congrats ! you have very big kahoonas
    Wonder whats going to happen to that lovely rolling chassis you got , surley you carnt keep all of them ? you planning a hog implant ?
    Maybe i can pop in when i get my bike with a coupla cases of beer and we can talk
    Things are kicking off , seems this year will be a goodin !
    :clap
  4. John in Leeds

    John in Leeds Been here awhile

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    Come on over Grant, you'll be very welcome. :freaky

    Sorry the big kahoonas were sold off to facilitate the deal :rofl only little kahoonas now

    and yes there are some (embrionic) plans for the rolling chassis but not to make it a heavier bike, that is definately not the way to go. :eek1
  5. Renga

    Renga n00b

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  6. myggan

    myggan n00b

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  7. John in Leeds

    John in Leeds Been here awhile

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    Hi Renga,

    will you be able to map the cylinders individually with this system? The flow graphs from the guy in the US show a great disparity between the front and rear cylinders. Can't wait for your results :lurk
  8. John in Leeds

    John in Leeds Been here awhile

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  9. Lorretto

    Lorretto City Dweller Crushperado

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    Washington, DC
    Hi All:

    I'm waiting on a stator as mine seems like it's gone. Battery has 12.29 volts before starting 11.20 at 4,000 RPM. Pulled the positive cable from the battery while at 4,000 RPM and the engine quit instantly. Checked the battery again and had 12.28 after shut down. Is there a way to check the regulator and could it draw that much power or is this a case of the stator has a short. Any thoughts. When I ordered the stator from Highland they mentioned they have a drawing of the flywheel puller, if anyone already has this, I would appreciate a copy. If not, I'll ask for a copy and pass it on to anyone else that may need it.

    When checking over the bike I noticed an oil leak that's up high on the left side that looks like it's draining from the bottom of the airbox. Thought I would pull the gas tank to get a better look. Somebody at Highland :wave spent a lot of time figuring out how to squeze every ml out of that tank, well done indeed. My question is are the connections at the fuel pump some kind of quick connect? If so, what's the trick to get these off without breaking anything. It seems like it is taking more force than it should so I figure I'm doing something wrong.

    Thanks
  10. John in Leeds

    John in Leeds Been here awhile

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  11. GreaseSnake

    GreaseSnake 2wheeled maniac

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    Stator testing: Disconnect the the yellow cables coing from the stator (the connector is somewhere between the stator and the regulator.)
    Use a AC Volt meter!! Connect he meter between the two yellow ones. If you don't get any current, the stator is gone. If it gives current, the regulator is toast.

    MOST COMMON: the flywheel "eats" the two yellow cables mentioned above, just behind the flywheel. ALWAYS CHECK THESE CABLES!!! :deal
  12. Lorretto

    Lorretto City Dweller Crushperado

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    Thanks Guys! Appreciate the assitance.

    The photo below is the spooge dumped into the airbox. John mentioned some oils froth with Mobil 1 being one of the more problematic. Sure enough, I changed the oil with Mobil 1 full syn for bikes. Is this what the froth would look like. It is more yellow than grey/brown.

    [​IMG][/IMG]

    Any thoughts? The goo on the lip is from wiping my finger off on the air box.
  13. John in Leeds

    John in Leeds Been here awhile

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    Just like mine John No problem when I changed if I remember right. I'll look back in my notes


    BTW have you had any mechanical noise?
  14. Lorretto

    Lorretto City Dweller Crushperado

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    The engine is on noisey side but not much more mechanical clanking than the KTM but nothing that seems harsh or out of place.
  15. John in Leeds

    John in Leeds Been here awhile

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    The engine can be a bit noisy, I think the light weight contributes to this, so no problem.

    Just for interest, have been out on my Outback with my mate on his Boxer Cup Beemer. He goes not much more than 10% over limits so I got 54 mpg over the 350 odd kms. Great handling on loads of country roads, sunny day, beautiful. :clap
  16. John in Leeds

    John in Leeds Been here awhile

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    One other suggestion John

    Don't check and add oil when the engine is cold, for some reason it seems to overfill if you do this.

    I generally warm the motor, or at the end of a run wait 10 minutes and check and fill to level then. Don't know whether the oil expands or gets airated but I do know the level reads much higher when hot.

    :deal
  17. nsx

    nsx Been here awhile

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    So no matter what the meter reads, something is bad? What if nothing was bad, what should the reading be? Are you checking resistance?

    If it's common for the flywheel to "eat" the yellow cables, I guess everyone should pull the flywheel and try to secure these wires out of the way of the flywheel?
  18. John in Leeds

    John in Leeds Been here awhile

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    Hi Robert

    AC voltmeter with running engine should give voltage >14 if working I reckon. In John's case if the reading is good then it's the regulator or a wiring short causing the problem.

    And yes it is always a good idea to pull the flywheel and tuck the leads away as far as possible and secure them with some RTV sealant.
  19. nsx

    nsx Been here awhile

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    I would like a copy. It seems that everyone with a Highland needs to pull the flywheel to check the wires.

    Thanks,
    Robert
  20. Lorretto

    Lorretto City Dweller Crushperado

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    Robert, I emailed Highland. They have been very helpful in sharing information, and very fast on the turn around time. When I get the drawing I will send it along to you any anyone else that may needs it.

    For those that have not had the experience, the symptoms of the failure start with the bike running rougher than usual, jerky at off idle, then proceeds to be jerky up the range of RPM,, similar to running out of gas or running really bad gas to where the bike is WO just to keep the engine running. A word of caution, it gets a little interesting, as every now and then the throttle clears the bogging with the trottle WO it wants to lift the front and clear traffic by going over the top.