Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by JimmieA, Nov 12, 2012.
Sport touring tires, the scorpion rear is done at 4300... I'm looking for a sport touring tire that will last, I don't ride off road...
I added 30mm fork spacers worth of preload, changed the fork oil to Belray 20wt 5" from the top, and really improved the action. I think a little lighter wt oil might be a bit better. I mounted up an 2011 GSXR 750 rear shock and the difference is pretty good.
My changes made everything better and I can just imagine what a Rally Raid kit would do to this bike. I rode the A route of the Shenandoah 500 this past weekend and pretty much destroyed my SW Motech skid plate. I now have a D shaped header.
I replaced my stock tires @ 7,925 miles, the rear had a little more but the front was toast, with a set of Shinko Raven 009's.
I'm at about 14,000miles on the Shinko Raven set. The rear could probably go another 500-1000mi vs the front being proper toast, probably over-rode it by about 500-1000 miles since I can see the metal bands underneath the tread coming up.
I just put in an order for another set. Cost me under $160 shipped from Revzilla (price-matched from amazon)
Wow, do you live on that thing? Here's hoping for another 100K for you. tp dd50
Pilot Road 4s handle and last very well.
I have a 2015 ABS CB500X with ~24k miles. No problems and all scheduled maintenance completed. Last week after a 650 mile weekend back roads ride we were getting close to home steady state on the superslab and the dash goes dark, the bike dies and will not restart. Coasting to the nearest exit ~3 to 4 long minutes later the dash comes back on and bike restarts everything working as it should. Got to be a loose connection. Back home the battery connections checked tight and had the battery itself checked out by a local Interstate Battery outlet and proclaimed good ( I was pleasantly surprised they gave they battery a clean bill of health and passed up on a sale). I pulled the tank and checked all of the plugs I could find. They all seemed fine and I reinstalled with dielectric grease. The chassis ground(s) on the left side is undisturbed and tight. I have Cyclops LED lights which were in use; a USB charger and coax for heated gear neither of which were being used. All accessory wiring is soldered and shrink wrapped with line fuses directly to the battery ( pigtails were made to reduce the number of ring connectors on the battery terminals).
The only thing I have found "odd" is the main 30A fuse under the right side panel does not offer much resistance when being pulled out or being inserted. It 'seems' ok just doesn't give me the firm resistance I am used to when fooling with fuses. I have put a couple hundred miles on the bike since and had no problems what so ever.
Please forgive the long post but we sometimes ride in pretty secluded areas and I would really like to avoid having our trusty CBX go dark with some sketchy electrical issue.
Has anyone had issues with the main fuse being loose or similar issue???
Did you do the valve clearance checks? Something in the electronics tray could be loose. Also check the connectors behind the display.
Yep. ( Valves were all in good order). After checking the battery that’s where I thought I would find my loose connection, but it all seemed tight.
Went out the morning after replacing the air filter and the bike wouldn't power on at all. Main fuse (the 30A) was blown. Still no idea what happened, but everything checked out the same way yours did. Replaced the fuse and good to go. Terrified I'd managed to put the battery in backwards or something...but nope, everything was right. Still is, six months later.
Assuming it was the fuse in my case. I'll just be sure to always have a 30A spare and the proper allen wrench to remove the panel. Odd for such an otherwise dependable bike. I'd actually feel better if the fuse was blown. Then I could sure I'd found something.
Thanks... I ordered a set
I ride to hard and load to heavy for those pressures. I would roll a bead pretty quick.
The cheapest 10W30 motobike oil I could find.
damn, and i thought i had alot on my 500twin engine ,122,000km, but then again my crf500L (the donor crf250L i built it on) is pretty much at 250,000km. so i win? lol
i bought it end of 2013 so about 55,000km a year average. 150km/day average <----altho not indicative of actual daily mileage, more like 80-90km/day then 800+ km/weekend.
160,000km tho..... im impressed.
i too use the cheapest 5w-30 oil i can find, 5w instead of factory recommended 10w because i ride year round in the winter so the 5w helps cold starts when its -20C outside. and of course in the summer i run 10w-30 as recommended in the manual.
this is addressed to Mustang28027
people have to remember this is a de-tuned 500twin. its low compression, 87 octane, with a 24,000km valve check interval! and with a 12,000km oil change interval! its a bullet proof engine. after 122,000km the engine still pulls just as hard as when i got it new, and the fuel economy has not changed at all, if anything its gotten slightly better.
funny enough too, i sent my oil in for chemical analysis and after riding it very hard for 12,000km my oil still had a theoretical life of 40% left. this means if you really wanted to you could do 20,000km+ (or 1 year, whichever comes first) if you rode it calmly and normally. i think honda said 12,000km as insurance incase someone rode it like they stole it they would not cook their oil after 12k.
just proves that this little 500twin is very durable and economical.
Pretty impressive on the oil and mileage. Obviously you ride year round. That is impressive, too!
Saving a wreck.... my rebuild. So I got this as a salvage wreck. Hoping to turn this into a gravel runner as JDRocks has done on his builds, but saving the plastics. I think it looks pretty cool... Got the right fork used off ebay, ordered the left tube, cheap, from a dealership that had it on sale. Someone had extra parts left over from a Rally Raid conversion, and I got them cheap. Put the right fork on, easy. Rebuilding the left fork, should be simple, but that upper race that is just below the seal and washer... what a pain. The tolerances on that to fit are nearly impossible. After trying to press it into the lower fork for nearly an hour, I finally resorted to taking some fine grit sandpaper and reaming the lower housing out a bit. Then it fit fine. Got it all put together and was hoping to go for an initial ride.... but then discovered the rotor is warped. The wheel will not turn. Denied! Back to ebay to find a rotor. We are fortunate that our bikes share parts with the CB500f and CRR500.
More work on the rebuild... When I got the bike the left front turn signal was broken off. I discovered the previous owner had tried to Gorilla Glue it back on, then tried electrical tape. Failure. I took the broken parks and used two part JB Weld epoxy to put them back together. Yes, JB Weld WILL WORK ON OUR PLASTIC PARTS. Still, I don't like it . Don't like the look. So I have ordered a new left front signal light. Problem is, the wiring connects inside the fairing and it is well hidden. Does anyone have instructions on removing the fairing pieces to get to it? Please post.
Man that is a TON of shifting Good for you that is awesome