Honda CB500X

Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by JimmieA, Nov 12, 2012.

  1. Wind_Rider

    Wind_Rider Been here awhile

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    2 up on CB is fine as long as you keep your luggage light and you are both not really tall or heavy people .

    It's just a 500 . Think light and you will enjoy the trip .
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  2. dirtdreamer50

    dirtdreamer50 long time rider

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    With around 43 HP and 33 lb/ft torque at the rear wheel at 8500 RPM, it's not a tractor, but will pull/ride well if not abused at low RPMs. Just take your time and enjoy the trip with your daughter, and all will be OKAY.... Sounds like a great bonding event if handled stress free. She may learn to love motorcycles and touring, for a lifetime...... tp
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  3. Oyabun

    Oyabun 親分

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    I might be wrong, but I can't rember if there would be a bleed screw on the oem caps. Mind I have a 13X and a 16F. The F certainly does not have a bleed screw, so unless the F and X are different, the later should no have a bleed either.
    You sure that you're not after a bleed screw for the RR caps?
  4. Garde

    Garde brainz 4 sale

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    ...

    You're right. I'm just gonna go over here to this corner and hide now.
  5. Oyabun

    Oyabun 親分

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    Please don't. Just trying clarify in order to be able to help. No judgement.
    The RR bleed screws are M4 (M4 0,7 pitch to be more exact) as per the webshop.
  6. Garde

    Garde brainz 4 sale

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    Yep, got that. Thanks. :)
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  7. tft

    tft Been here awhile

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  8. ben2go

    ben2go Moto Flunky

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    You will want to up your rear shock preload and possibly your rear tire pressure. You can expect a little head shake if you're on the OE suspension. Just keep both hands on the bars.
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  9. AKTobias

    AKTobias Frugal Badass

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    I just watched this video on making tubed rims tubeless (using marine grade adhesive and heavy tape). Anybody done this on the X? I just bought the stuff to do it and am looking for input! Here's the video:
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  10. Hootowl

    Hootowl Long timer

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    I did the rear wheel last year using slightly different materials but its been trouble free.
    I'll be doing the front later this year
  11. playinatwork

    playinatwork Been here awhile

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    The X rims are already tubeless.
  12. ben2go

    ben2go Moto Flunky

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    I used Sitka Flex only, on a couple dirt bikes for friends. I cleaned the drop center with grease and wax remover. Trued the wheels and made sure all the spokes were tensioned. I sanded the drop center really good with 80 grit sandpaper. I cleaned it all with the same grease and wax remover, 3M brand to be specific. Don't touch the cleaned area with your bare hands. Skin oils will cause the seal to break. Also use nitril gloves when working with Sitka Flex. I filled the drop center with Sitka Flex and smoothed it with a bond spreader. I trimmed it to the contour of the rear rim. I made sure it had 1/16th of an inch gap over the spoke nipples. When spreading the Sitka Flex, angling the speadergave good coverage over the spoke nipples and because It was angled, there was a little more than 1/16th of an inch of Sitke Flex over the spoke nipples.

    This is what I used. It is available in several colors and can be found at some big box stores and home improvement stores. Shop around. Link for reference.
    https://www.amazon.com/Sikaflex-221...cl-20&linkId=8879668b2597db348fc785b1e79637fd

    They are taking about the Rally Raid spoke wheels.
  13. Oyabun

    Oyabun 親分

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    Just a quick note - the manufacturer is called Sika, and the material is SikaFlex. They are one of the best manufacturers of building chemicals.
    I personally used no bondo, but a similar method than Outex does. After a bit of sanding and cleaning I've rolled on the proper size super heavy duty 2mm thick two sided tape for sealing, and a thinner single sided PE tape to provide a protective layer for wheel changes. So far works like a charm.
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  14. ben2go

    ben2go Moto Flunky

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    Yes, you're right, it's Sika. Doh, Sitka is a place on the west coast US and the name of the boat I plan to build.
  15. markinthailand

    markinthailand Been here awhile

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    Since we're on the topic, I had my RRL3 wheels done with Outex a few months ago. The front holds pretty steady, but the rear slowly looses pressure over time. Maybe a pound every couple of days. It was worse and I took it back to the shop and they did what they can, but what amount of loss is normal? I've got the Cyclops tire pressure monitoring system on it, so I can track temp and pressure daily, but since they are related it is hard to tell day to day what is actual loss and what is just temperature changes.

    It is just annoying enough to pay attention...

    What is everyone's experience? Any tips or ideas appreciated. Would putting Slime in the tire fix the slow leaks?
  16. Wind_Rider

    Wind_Rider Been here awhile

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    You might want to take this Rally Raid specific question over the RR Vendor thread where there are a lot more CB500X RR riders hanging out who have these wheels.
  17. Oyabun

    Oyabun 親分

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    I'm not sure, but if my emory is right, RR does no support Outex, but a different vendor for "tubelessing" their wheels.
  18. JMo (& piglet)

    JMo (& piglet) Unicorn breeder

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    To clarify/confirm - Outex is a DIY system that you apply yourself - essentially two layers of extra heavy duty/super adhesive flexible tape. Apparently people seem to have had good/satisfactory results with their system - but the bonding does seem to depend on the cleanliness of the inside of your wheel.

    Rally-Raid's tubeless wheels are professionally sealed by a company in Italy (BARTubeless) who vulcanise a band of rubber around the inside of the wheel to seal the spokes, and include a removable valve stem (should you ever need to temporarily fit a tube if you damaged the tyre so that it couldn't be plugged at the roadside). The Rally-Raid/BARTubeless wheels are warrantied against leaking for 4 years. Rally-Raid's wheel rims also have the correct inner bead/lip to properly seat a tubeless tyre.

    Jx
  19. UKJeeper

    UKJeeper Adventurer

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    Topical, as I noticed this morning the front has lost pressure again. Not the first time it's lost a few psi seemingly overnight. Was fine riding home from work in London yesterday, but not so much so going back in this morning.

    Can't seem to pin the reason down. I've even tried overinflating and sitting it in a water barrel to look for bubbles.
  20. Hootowl

    Hootowl Long timer

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    I had a slow leak as well on one of my wheels.
    Solved that issue with Loctite 290 which is a post assembly thread locker. I applied it to the spoke threads. No more loss of air.
    Is it possible that air is leaking thru the tire? If so then a Slime like product would help.