Honda Elite 150 1987 Restoration

Discussion in 'Battle Scooters' started by brycekauai, Mar 4, 2013.

  1. brycekauai

    brycekauai Adventurer

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    Hey everyone. Just joined this forum and wanted to share my new project. Got this scooter for free on Craigslist the other day. No title, no keys! Bummer! My friends said it would be too much work to get running, but I hope I'm up to the challenge. I live in Hawaii and rust just eats things away as you can see. The scooter has been sitting for just under 10 years and was in perfect working order up until the owner up and moved. Its got 13k on it and hopefully some life left as well. Body is in decent shape, but some paint would make it look cherry for sure.

    Needs -
    Battery, Gas tank cleaning, carb cleaning. Fluids changed. Any other suggestions?

    Questions -

    1.Back tire will not move one bit. I almost got it off today but need another ratchet to complete that part, all the rust has just eaten away all the bolts. The parking brake looks to be disengaged, so is it rusted out on the inside? What part would I need to fix this issue?
    2.Is this scooter worth all the work, even considering it was free?

    Look forward to your help and comments.

    Aloha
    Bryce
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    #1
  2. scootrboi

    scootrboi Long timer

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    I am really impressed by the rust.
    #2
  3. fullmetalscooter

    fullmetalscooter Let me take this duck off

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    dumb to ask but have you taken off the rear brake line ? Even then with this rusted of scooter the brake shoes may be stuck. You might just have to move the tire round and round will tapping it or hitting it to get it to move. Really hope this scooter was nearly free and the engine is not as screw up inside as the outside looks. Remember you can alway go get a home power coating kit for 40 bucks or less and do your wheels up at home. Note make cetrain your wfie doesn't catch you using the stove to do you powder coating in. Lots of you tube videos will show you how. For rested bolts remember the old trick of heating them up and then dumping cold water on them to shock them off. With something as rusted as that I would dump some oil down the spark plug hole just to lube it up before you start it.


    As to what it's worth around a grand running or so. Is it worth getting running ? Thats the question . 1) does it turn over at all 2) Does it have compression . You ll find parts cheap for it online. Used wheels 50 bucks or less each. Might even be worth the time of finding a second one for parts.

    Also I just noted you ve taken the wheel bolts off the rear brake hub . any reason for doing that?? Unline most scooter the early elite wheel and rear brake hub unbolt from each other but there's no good reason to take them apart. You also I have taken off the rear shock bolts from the side arm because that has to be done to?

    Anyone still got the link for the oem elite 150 service manual ?
    #3
  4. brycekauai

    brycekauai Adventurer

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    Well I made a little progress. Got a fresh battery and some of the electrical works. Brake lights, dash lights, and Gauges. But I'm not getting any blinker or Head lights power. Checked the fuses in the dash storage and they are all good, but I'm gonna start cleaning the contacts down by the battery today and do some voltage tests to check if the current is getting around.

    I opened the left side case and it still has a strong belt and the drive pulley still spins which means that the engine isn't rusted (I hope!). Anyone have any clue about getting the starter to turn over? Which electrical should I focus on? I think I'm gonna run this thing as a skeleton when I get it running. Saw some others on the forum that look sick!

    I took the gas tank off as well, it doesn't need to be attached to get the starter to crank right? Any help is appreciated.

    Aloha
    Bryce
    #4
  5. brycekauai

    brycekauai Adventurer

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    Ya, thats what Hawaii does. Wind an salt air. YOu just have to accept that everything you own will rust eventually. Just run it hard till it does.
    #5
  6. brycekauai

    brycekauai Adventurer

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    I can't seem to get this part of the back wheel off. Am I not unscrewing something on the brake? I have tried hammering it off and its just not moving, don't wanna keep hitting it and break something. The part with the ridges won't budge, but there is a little play in the seam. The tire won't spin at all on it as well. I even put all my weight on it yesterday with the wheel attached and no luck. Help!

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    #6
  7. Warney

    Warney Been here awhile

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    On a good day the rear drum can be a pooch to remove on a 25 year old Honda Scooter. Dissimilar metals and moisture can fuse the drive splines to the hub in a short time. That whole assembly is likely rusted tight and if the drum has a ridge inside (it probably does) you somehow need to back off the adjuster and get the brake shoes to pull in enough for the drum to clear. So there are 2 potential areas that are stuck. Problem appears that in your last picture I can't see the brake cam to the right of the clevis, which should be poking through the backing plate. PB Blaster, Kroil, or Acetone and ATF mixture might work as a penetrant. Old Farmer trick for rusty hubs stuck on a drive spline...apply some heat to the hub, lay some wax on the splines and hopefully some will suck inside and break the rust bond. On a Tractor you can use a bfh, not on the Honda! Not to discourage you from continuing with the project but that rust is a problem.
    #7
  8. JerryH

    JerryH Banned

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    Welcome. And be careful. Free may seem to be a good thing. It can also be a nightmare. Several years ago, I was given a 1985 Goldwing LTD (the fuel injected model) because the owner was moving cross country, and had way to much to do to deal with to make it worthwhile trying to sell a bike with so little value. It looked a lot better than that scoot, and not being one to turn down free, I jumped at it. 6 months of frustration and hard work, plus nearly $3000 in parts, I had it running. Most of the work was done in the summer in AZ, in 115 degree temps. Very few new parts were available for it, and in some cases used parts were junk, especially if they were made of plastic or rubber. I used a lot of parts from other motorcycles, car parts, plumbing parts, and had to outright fabricate some of the parts.

    But I did learn one thing. The "fix it at all cost" because it was free doesn't always work. You can easily put way more work and money into something than it will ever be worth. If it is worth it to YOU, you still need to be careful. Many times you can buy something in better condition than what you have will ever be for less money than what it will cost you to fix it. Not trying to be negative, but after getting my bike done, I was not happy with what I had considering what I had into it. Whatever you decide to do, best of luck with it.
    #8
  9. brycekauai

    brycekauai Adventurer

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    Yes Warney thank you for your help. I have some good news also! I got the scoot to turn over today, and it has SPARK!! So stoked. Electrical is my worst nightmare so this just made my day that much better. Tomorrow I'm gonna tackle the stuck drum, I'll get some Lubricants in there and start hammering away till I get it off. I watched some videos online and they all pretty much say the same thing. But I for sure agree with you, this is a lot of work to put into something and I'm gambling that there is a reward at the end of this. But hey, were men, this is what we do, WRENCH!

    aloha.
    #9
  10. fullmetalscooter

    fullmetalscooter Let me take this duck off

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    http://www.motorscooterguide.net/Manuals/Honda_CH150_Service_Manual.pdf

    Pdf for ch150 sevice manual . Don't think it matter much that it's for the 85-86 elite 150. If that doesn't work try this http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=8558

    At worst you might have to heat the drum up and dump water on it to shock it lose. but I don't know if that a good idea . You might be heat up brake pads made out of asptotus base stuff . which kill the lungs if breathed in .. You could try using a strap type wrench to twist it up and down. As for starting it does anyone know if it's got a brake cut out switch like other honda scooters? Eg helix the side stand has to be up and the foot brake in to start.

    As to the rust on the case a good can of rust converter might just stop it and then some paint. Anyone know of places where he can order cheap parts online and he will not pay through the nose for shipping? I bought from these guys before . http://www.scrappydogscooters.
    #10
  11. brycekauai

    brycekauai Adventurer

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    Thanks for the pointers! I got the back brake drum cover off today finally. It took some hammering but I got the thing to spin by pulling on the clutch and pounded it out slowly.

    Once that was off I Was brave enough to try and get the thing started. Cleaned the tank as best I could and put some premium gas in it......and it FIRED UP! Well, it didn't run pretty, but it sure did start! I turned the idle screw up a little to get it to idle without having to give it throttle all the time, let it run for a couple mins and on the 2nd try it started right up. WHen giving it throttle it definatly bogs, but I think a good carb cleaning is in line for tomorrow. Hopefully that will clear it up a little and get the thing purring a little sweeter while I keep working on the rest of it. Such a relief having gotten this far. Thanks for all the help so far everyone. Video of the first time running below!!!

    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/7sz8LVNYMcY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
    #11
  12. brycekauai

    brycekauai Adventurer

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    Also, I'm not seeing the Fan for the Radiator spinning. Any advice on getting that to work?

    Mahalo
    #12
  13. Wentwest

    Wentwest How's that work?

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    The fan only runs when the thermo switch on the radiator calls for it. Mostly, it never runs. These scooters don't run hot.
    #13
  14. worncog

    worncog YBNormal

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    I have used this product in a lathe restoration project.

    Evapo Rust http://www.evapo-rust.com/

    Product says to soak for a few hours, but I ended up soaking some parts for several days to get all or most of the corrosion off. I even left, I mean forgot, a few machine tool bits that should have been thrown in the trash in the solution for over a month and they came out looking like brand new. Best part is you rinse the parts with water after they come out of the soak. lube or paint right after treating. It is not magic, but it sure is close. HTH
    #14
  15. brycekauai

    brycekauai Adventurer

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    Hey guys just a little update. Ordered new clutch springs and got the rear brake drum off. Now gotta get the Cam out cause its rusted pretty stiff. I also Ordered a new fuel petcock cause I wasn't really getting a good flow coming to the engine, and I cleaned the carb thoroughly as well. Hoping the petcock gets it running a little better then its clutch time. Parts are shipping to Hawaii so it takes a little time. I'll be surfing till then!

    Mahalo
    #15
  16. fullmetalscooter

    fullmetalscooter Let me take this duck off

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    I would run new fuel lines to . After all it's cheap at 1 buck a foot and the otehrs are 24 years old. Any auto parts store will do. Good job so far
    #16
  17. brycekauai

    brycekauai Adventurer

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    Great point. I got a few feet yesterday and will get more tomorrow. For sure have some old tweaked tubes for sure. Mahalo!
    #17
  18. brycekauai

    brycekauai Adventurer

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    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/j2raIE9BF-o" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

    Little update in the video above. Today I got in the new petcock and fuel filter. The thing starts up and is running great. I haven't put my 200 pound booty on the thing yet though. THanks for all the help so far and the carb cleaning really helped.

    NEXT ON THE LIST:
    1. Replace old clutch springs
    2.Un-seize the Rear brake cam. With Heat I'm guessing?
    3.Check front brakes
    4.Replace Exhaust gasket
    5.Take for a ride up my street!!!!

    Any pointers or help is much appreciated.

    Mahalo!
    #18
  19. fullmetalscooter

    fullmetalscooter Let me take this duck off

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    Any idea how rusted the gas tank is? Any need to dump some washers etc into it to clean it up inside? Also found this yahoo group for you . You ll have to have yahoo account to read it . but they ll now more then most http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hondaelite150/message/992?var=1

    And I dough you need it but dans basic free motorcycle repair course
    http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.htm
    Did you download the manual yet ? it will show you what is what.

    This is what one guys said to do about something like this. Most >

    Remove the brake actuator lever and work the segmented brake cam back and forth gently with vise grippers. Use
    penetrate oil on the cam to brake housing hole for better corrosion removal- but
    .
    bike bandit oem picture of the rear brake parts.
    http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1986-honda-elite-150-deluxe-ch150d/o/m10720#sch16781
    </pre>
    #19
  20. brycekauai

    brycekauai Adventurer

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    Thanks for the tips FullMetalScooter

    1. The Gas tank is for sure pretty rusted. I did the bolt shaking and got a lot of the crap out. I used SeaFoam and gas and shook like crazy. I then bought an aftermarket fuel filter to help a little more till I got it running good.
    2.The back brake is gonna take some time to get repaired. I will be working it a lot the next week when I have time.
    #20