Honda NHX110 (LEAD, Elite)

Discussion in 'Battle Scooters' started by DaBinChe, Dec 16, 2013.

  1. Inoplanetyanin

    Inoplanetyanin One day closer!

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  2. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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    Over 35k miles had to adjust the valves. Exhuast was on the tight side of spec while intake was tighter then spec. This was the first time the intake has been adjusted
  3. Inoplanetyanin

    Inoplanetyanin One day closer!

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    How is oil consumption? Did you add oil during the cannonball run? If so, over which interval? Which oil brand did you use while on CBR?
  4. Mnmsutton

    Mnmsutton Adventurer

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    What would you recommend for more top end? Scooter has 3600 miles on orginal equipment and tires.
    Take apart and clean verator, weights, sliders, and plates, verify belt width, and when comes time replace with larger tires? Clean out as much belt dust as possible. Check valves. Anything else? I have lost about 4 mph and would like to get as close to your gps verified speed as possible.

    Thanks in advance for your suggestions
  5. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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    There isn't anything available for the nhx110 so the only choice is a larger tire. The Bridgestone ML16 4.0x10 are the best. Even now with my drive and tires worn out I still get to a 53mph indicated same speed as stock when everything is new.
  6. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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    there is a little oil consumption, from the upper hash to the lower hash in 1k miles...about 50ml or so.

    Over 38k miles and check the valves they are good. New air filter, old one is DIRTY. Just ordered a new variator so waiting for that to put in new belt and rollers.
  7. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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    I'm gonna starting using the regular NGK high speed plugs instead of the iridium cause of the wear on the plug cap stud, it wears out long before the electrode does so would just be a waste to use iridium plugs.
  8. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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    concerning oil consumption, better oil show less consumption, so synthetic like mobil 1 10w-30 extended performance, and also thicker oil shows less consumption too. At home I normally use the mobil1 extended performance 10w-30 or a diesel synthetic 5w-40 like Delo or Rottella6 but on SCBR better oil wasn't always available so I used what ever I thought was best.
  9. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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    About 38,6xx miles. Put in a new variator/belt/rollers/slide guides. Prior max speed on flat was 52mph. Now with new drive parts I'm maxing out at 55mph on flat. Still on the same tires from the trip...think I can get to 40k miles on them.
  10. TmaxSLO

    TmaxSLO Adventurer

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    I have almoust 10T kilometers on my lead. I get 88 km/h (odometer) on flat (stock, nothing changed), that isnt bad ?

    I m using NGK NGK high speed plug, there is no visible wear. And no oil consumption (Repsol oil for 4 stroke engine)

    I almoust tread Lead for PCX 125 (2012) whit with a damaged engin (piston). About 400 EUR for repair, but in "last" minute decided to keep Lead. I do not regret the decision.

    P.S. Is Cannonball finished?
  11. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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    Yeah cannonball was finished a month ago.

    You made a good decision not to trade.

    Your stock speed is just about right when the drive parts are not worn. On mine I'm running a larger diameter front tire so my actual speed is faster then stock actual speed by a couple MPH when both show the same indicated speed.
  12. Inoplanetyanin

    Inoplanetyanin One day closer!

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    I bought a new belt from partzilla.com and it looks small.
    OEM HONDA part 23100-GFM-901

    Can anyone confirm it's the right size for 2010 Honda Elite 110?

    DBC, is that the one you bought?
  13. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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    yeah that is the part number.
  14. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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    I have a Kajima, made in Japan, kickstand for sale. Very hight quality, in great condition with normal wear, no rust. Had it on for about a year. I find that I don't use the kickstand much just so used to the center stand. $60 plus shipping.
  15. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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    Just did some work to my drive and got an extra 5mph, so now I'm at an indicated 60mph max speed.

    All speeds is based on indicated mph on the speedometer. With a larger front tire my speed was reading 2-3mph slower then the stock size front tire. In other words with stock size front tire it read 52-53mph and the larger size front read 50-51mph.

    This is based on having a 100/90-12 front and a 4.0x10 rear. So with the larger tires and everything else stock I was topping out at 55mph on the flats, 56mph downhill.

    Now that I machine down the variator boss, from 1.534" to 1.458", I gained an extra 5mph. To take up the loss material that was removed I put in a flat washer on the outside of the variator back ramp/plate. The washer I used is 0.076" in thickness, size 9/16" I.D. grade 8. How much I machined off was based on the thickness of this washer. You can also use a M14 washer too, but the important thing besides ID is thickness. You'll need the ID to fit the crank and the thickness can't be too thick cause the belt will ride too high and touch the pinion starting gear. There is only about 1mm clearance between the OD of the variator and the pinion starting gear. I got the washer at OSH I looked around at various washers and found the thinness one, everything else is just too thick and won't work. I think that the 0.076" thickness washer is the thickest that you can get away with safety without destroying your drive or crank. I also think that I should of only machined off 0.070" instead to be more on the safe side as well as having more usable results.

    I think the grade 8 washer is thinner cause it is stronger then a regular washer so can get away with less material, thus being thinner.

    So how this works is that with the washer behind the variator back plate it moved the variator movable face closer to the non-moving face thus gearing the scoot taller by making the belt ride higher up the variator.

    The bad thing is that you lose initial take off and maybe climbing gear (if you are heavier). So now take off 0-5mph stutters/hesitates/lurches. What is happening is that because it is now geared taller at a given RPM it is spinning the clutch end faster thus engaging the clutch sooner or in other words the clutch is engaging at a lower crank RPM. It is slow until 10mph then it is back to normal and takes off strong. So for folks that spend most all their time in stop and go then this mod is not for you, you'll hate the take off. Before I use to be able to take off faster then cars now I take off just the same and maybe a tad bit slower cause of that hesitation. One thing to note is that I'm running a larger diameter rear so if you are running stock rear tire it might be better...I did gain about 2-3mph just from using the larger rear tire.

    I have always felt that the NHX110 is geared lower then it can handle. Now I can max out at 55mph on the flats without hitting the rev limiter and if I tuck/draft/downhill I can get to 60mph before hitting the rev limiter. I like this more cause I think constantly on the rev limiter waste fuel/energy and if it can do 55mph without hitting the rev limiter then all the better.

    It also seems like I'm going 1-2mph faster on the climbs as well. I think because it is revving lower it is staying in the torque/HP peak vs. before I would pass the peak power band and be in the declining side. At the rev limit it is past it's power band, and before I was constantly at the rev limiter. I spend more time at the rev limiter then any other RPM, now I'm not there anymore and think it is just about at the peak power/torque.

    So far I like it but time will tell if really is good or not. As I mentioned earlier I use a larger diameter rear tire then stock size so if you are using stock size rear tire it might be better. Won't know until you try.
  16. TmaxSLO

    TmaxSLO Adventurer

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    I think that is change that i need it for my Lead on stock tires, 2-3 km/h more would be enough.

    Can You pot some pictures of modification? (variator boss, washer ect. ) I m not tehical guy and need more info, pictures are great for that.
  17. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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    If all you need is an extra 2-3kmh then it would be better to go with a larger tire. Machining the variator boss is gonna give you that hesitation at take off.
  18. conchscooter

    conchscooter Long timer

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    The scooterist's dream of the extra mile-per-hour...It's the ambition that gave us much of what is good, and bad, in the world. I sit on the sidelines and marvel as I accept with gratitude all that the little factory engine gives. If I want more speed I deploy the bigger engine.
    I really need to re-think my complacency. I suppose a diet would be a start, but my advantage lies in an extra 40cc's of raw power to hit 60. I just lack the confidence to imagine I know more than all the boffins at the factory. In Henry Ford's day I'd have been grateful to be on the production line!
    My hat's off to you.
  19. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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    This is the washer, it goes in first. Size is 9/16" I.D., 0.076" thickness, grade 8. When things are stamped one side has a more square edge while the other side has a more rounded edge. The round edge goes in first, in other words the round edge is towards the motor while the square edge is towards the variator. The reason why it should be done like this is be cause when the crank is machine there is a small radius where it has a square inside corner the round edge of the washer will help clear that radius. If you put in the square side of the washer in first it will interfere with the radius and won't fit perfectly.
    [​IMG]

    Variator Boss, you can see that on the right side where it has slide wear mark and at the edge it has no wear mark. Before machining it down both ends was about the same. Now the left side no wear mark is much smaller cause this side got machine off by the same thickness as the washer. Original length was 1.534" now it is 1.458", I think it would of been better to only machine off 0.070" instead of 0.076", there would of been enough tread at the end of the crank for the nut any less then 0.070" then you'll run into not having enough tread for the nut.
    [​IMG]

    Here you see that the belt rides higher up the variator, stock there is easily 5mm of unused face at the outer end of the variator, but now it is only about 2mm of unused face. You might think why not machine it more and get even more top speed? When you put in the variator notice how close the OD of the variator is to the pinion starter gear, you'll want a few mm of clearance to clear the belt. If the belt touches the pinion gear it will shred.
    [​IMG]
  20. DaBinChe

    DaBinChe Long timer

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    This is not about just squeezing a few more MPH out of the NHX110 but making it so that it is more usable. From the factory it is geared a little low, I think this is the case because the NHX110 was originally an Asain market bike. There a bike is a family vehicle and it carries the whole family. That is a lot of weight so to carry that weight better it needs to be geared lower. Also in Asia the speeds are very slow because of the population density. It is not like the US where we have space to ride WOT. Our mind set is also different then in Asia too, people here in the US, folks just like to go faster when there is space. In Asia even if you have the road all to yourself folks still keep a very slow pace, they like to stay around 25-30mph speed on small bikes.

    So I think gearing it just a tad taller makes better use of what the motor can put out. I like the fact that it isn't bouncing off the rev limiter constantly now. In Asia you'll never have the chance to get it up to the rev limiter, just too much traffic.

    With all that said, when I really want to go faster (60+mph) I can hop on my Sh150, and if I really want to go fast then I'll hop my motorcycle.