Honda XR500R-1984 Reviving

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Ivanych, Apr 24, 2011.

  1. Ivanych

    Ivanych Ivanych

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    241
    Location:
    St. Petersburg. Russia
    Hi!
    My name is Ivan. I'm from Russia. (St. Petersburg)

    SORRY! My English is very bad. My assistant - Google translator.

    I just became the owner of the bike HONDA XR500R 1984 (PE03).
    I like the old bikes, and I am satisfied with your purchase. I have a lot of work to prepare it for my future big trips.
    I've heard legends about the reliability of HONDA XR, and I want to be sure of it.
    HONDA in Russia than when it did not sell motorcycles and XR XR500R is a very rare bike. Bike ran 33000 km. and I think he is in good condition. (I hope. ). The previous owner lived very far away from me, and I could not see the motorcycle in the living only photos and video.

    I have a service manual XR500R-83 and Clymer Honda XL / XR 500-600, 1979-1990
    But I have a lot of questions and hope for the assistance of experienced and respected members of this forum.
    Here are some photos.

    Attached Files:

    #1
  2. Ivanych

    Ivanych Ivanych

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    241
    Location:
    St. Petersburg. Russia
    Another picture

    Attached Files:

    #2
  3. Ivanych

    Ivanych Ivanych

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    241
    Location:
    St. Petersburg. Russia
    Another picture

    Attached Files:

    #3
  4. Ghost_Mutant

    Ghost_Mutant looking for bionics

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    716
    Location:
    border of granite & flats
    Good luck with your XR project. The 500 looks to be in good condition:thumb

    Here is a not so recent photo of my 84:
    [​IMG]

    I also have an 83 XR5, it's behind the 84 in the above photo. The 83 was purchased as a parts bike with yet another 84. Here is how the 83 was when I picked it up:
    [​IMG]

    There are plenty of big bore RFVC XR guys on this forum, and most of them have more respect than I do :D, but I'll also share my experience and answer any questions if I can.

    There are some parts that are getting hard to find for the 500s. Pistons, rings, and connecting rods are unique to the 83/4. Thankfully many of the other engine parts are shared with the 600s, so you can still get a new cam timing chain.

    I wonder if parts for the old 500 are easier to find in Europe?
    #4
  5. Ivanych

    Ivanych Ivanych

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    241
    Location:
    St. Petersburg. Russia
    Welcome Ghost_Mutant!
    I have read many of your posts and got a lot of useful to them.
    In Europe, many XR600R, XL600RM (LM) they're popular. On EBAY in Europe are selling a lot of new spending items, but a little old (the former in the past).
    #5
  6. Ivanych

    Ivanych Ivanych

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    241
    Location:
    St. Petersburg. Russia
    I could not see bike in to check your motorcycle before purchasing.
    Here's what I saw when the bike came to me:
    1. All the above were in place.
    2. No major damage.
    3. No oil leaks and corrosion.
    4. Entire frame.
    5. Front and rear shock absorbers are working.
    6. Chain, star, slipper and slider are worn out.
    7. Electrics in poor condition.
    8. Generator is about 120-150 watt., 3 outputs, one output is blown (broken)
    9. Big Buck 12 liters (3,2 gal), plastic.
    10. Rear wheel bearing bad (beating).
    11. Bearing front wheel is good.
    12. Wheels and tires are good.
    While I'm pleased.
    I will investigate further!

    Attached Files:

    #6
  7. Ivanych

    Ivanych Ivanych

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    241
    Location:
    St. Petersburg. Russia
    Stator is about 120-150 watt., 3 outputs, one output is blown (broken)

    Attached Files:

    #7
  8. Ivanych

    Ivanych Ivanych

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    241
    Location:
    St. Petersburg. Russia
    Exhaust port.
    Large soot.:cry

    Attached Files:

    #8
  9. Ivanych

    Ivanych Ivanych

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    241
    Location:
    St. Petersburg. Russia
    Input port.
    Looks good! (I think)

    Attached Files:

    #9
  10. Ivanych

    Ivanych Ivanych

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    241
    Location:
    St. Petersburg. Russia
    insulator cab

    Attached Files:

    #10
  11. Ghost_Mutant

    Ghost_Mutant looking for bionics

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    716
    Location:
    border of granite & flats
    If you are not burning oil and the compression is good then I'd leave the top end as it is. I suppose it may be possible to replace the valve stem seals without removing the head by using the air compressor trick through the spark plug hole, but my engines needed top end work so I did it the traditional way with a C clamp to compress the valve springs after removing the head.

    Check the cam chain for alignment/wear. I had three used chains and all three were stretched. A new chain does allow the alignment marks to be perfectly level with the top of the head surface.

    My 84 burned a little oil, which is why I started my main rebuild. I had a ton of buildup on my right intake valve from oil getting through the reed valve hole. My valve cover gasket was leaking both internally and externally. However, my left intake valve was perfectly clean, so I'm convinced my oil burning came from the reed valve hole.

    I don't see the reed valve holes in your intake ports. So your head may be the first time I've seen an RFVC XR500R without the reed valve. That's good.:D Honda's manual says they made them that way, but both of my 84 heads have the reed valve and ports.

    My engine ran good, but the piston and rings were worn past the limits when I had things apart to measure. How much work do you want to do to freshen up the engine?

    Our XRs do not have street lighting from Honda. My stock stators have one lighting coil rated for 55 watts. No battery.

    Do you have a battery?
    #11
  12. Blakebird

    Blakebird r-u-n-n-o-f-t

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2004
    Oddometer:
    16,871
    Location:
    Parker, CO
    I had an '82 XR500R, my first XR and the most comfortable :lol2

    How easy are parts to get? If you can source oem Honda engine parts without too much difficulty or expense....and are looking at this as a project to get back into top mechanical condition - then I'd jump in.

    If parts are expensive and hard to find, then ride it until it won't go anymore :lol3 They're a fun bike to restore, but fun=easy to find parts.

    That wiring is quite a tangle :eek1

    It's always cool to see what's available in other markets - in the U.S. we got XL's as our street legal versions, all the XR-R's were offroad only with minimal stator output.
    #12
  13. Ghost_Mutant

    Ghost_Mutant looking for bionics

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    716
    Location:
    border of granite & flats
    Before I forget again, the adjustment knob for the external reservoir is missing from your photos. Parts #26, 24, 25, 23, and 29
    [​IMG]
    #13
  14. Ivanych

    Ivanych Ivanych

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    241
    Location:
    St. Petersburg. Russia
    This bike was brought from Germany, he was an electrician for general roads (light, turn signals and stop). Battery no.
    The last owner drove 9000 km. without repair (his words).
    But I see that the repair was great.
    Spare parts not in stock in Russia, only the filter, oil lamps, chain, spark plug.
    All parts for repair only to order from Europe, Japan and the U.S..
    Parts for old XR only from the U.S. (In Europe and Japan, little details and they are very expensive). Ships from the USA 4-5 weeks.

    Near St. Petersburg is the largest lake in Europe - Ladoga (Laderzhskoe Lake) and Republic of Karelia (federal subject of Russia)
    Karelia - beautiful nature, very few people, lots of forests, granite cliffs, and many lakes.

    Here are some links:
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Ladoga
    http://www.laatokka.info/photos/_all_laatokka.html
    http://www.vottovaara.ru/seminar/galery/exped1.html
    Ladoga is a popular place for OFF ROUD - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5AzqBzl-B4&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

    I traveled a lot (hiking in the woods with a tent, hiking) in these places when I was young (a teenager). I want to revisit these places. This is not a sport, just travel.

    My plan - fully upgrade the engine by next summer for my travels.
    I should be confident in my engine.
    #14
  15. Ivanych

    Ivanych Ivanych

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    241
    Location:
    St. Petersburg. Russia
    I continue to study the engine.
    Withdrew RIGHT CRANKCASE CARPET /
    Oil filter dirty (black and flakes).
    Grid - filter clean. That's good.
    cam chain and CRANKCASE - touch (there are traces):eek1
    Oil seal CRANKSHAFT looks like a dry (hard). I think need to be replaced.
    Overall it looks good.
    Your opinion?
    Additional gasket under CYLINDERS!
    Alien (NOT ORIGINAL) Piston???

    Attached Files:

    #15
  16. Ivanych

    Ivanych Ivanych

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    241
    Location:
    St. Petersburg. Russia
    Grid - filter

    Attached Files:

    #16
  17. Ivanych

    Ivanych Ivanych

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    241
    Location:
    St. Petersburg. Russia
    Grid - filter 2

    Attached Files:

    #17
  18. Ghost_Mutant

    Ghost_Mutant looking for bionics

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    716
    Location:
    border of granite & flats

    That cylinder base gasket does look funny, but if you pull the cylinder to check the rings/piston and rod/pin then you will need a new gasket anyway.

    I've seen grid/screens that look worse, no signs of major problems with yours.

    Replacing the seals is a good idea if you think the ones you have are original. I replaced all my 25 year old internal seals that are only accessible when the engine is apart.

    Your chain looks normal to me. Here is the parts list:
    [​IMG]
    The chain does touch (slide on) parts #8 and #3. #8 can't be removed until the head is off the cylinder. Watch out for part #11, it's easy to loose.

    Also, watch out for the oil filter output bushing with the O-ring on it. I see it in your photo, and it's also easy to loose.

    When you get the valve cover off, you can then check to see if the cam chain is stretched.
    #18
  19. Ivanych

    Ivanych Ivanych

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2011
    Oddometer:
    241
    Location:
    St. Petersburg. Russia
    My cylinder has a 3 base gaskets.
    Number 1 and number 3 is thin and soft gaskets.
    gasket number 2 is made of aluminum!
    I think the engine put nonstandard piston. ?????
    To exclude the impact (meeting) the piston and the valve was set (attachment) gasket number 2 .????( this is my opinion)
    What is the opinion of a guru?

    Attached Files:

    #19
  20. Ghost_Mutant

    Ghost_Mutant looking for bionics

    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    716
    Location:
    border of granite & flats
    That is beyond funny:huh. I would say that you need to pull the head and cylinder to see exactly what is inside.

    No need to check for cam chain stretch now. With the extra height of the cylinder, I'll bet the alignment marks won't line up properly with a new chain. I'm not sure how you would check for cam chain stretch with that extra set of cylinder gaskets. You would need to know the starting alignment when the cam chain is new and with the aluminum cylinder spacer installed.
    #20