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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Poolside, Nov 18, 2010.
It make you hold the bars tightly,
take anotha ride both daily and nightly...
For the IICE Air, on all the bikes, the installation degree-of-difficulty is on the order of plugging in a table lamp. For the IICE Cool, There's a little more to the installation. It involves connecting to a couple of wires. Truly not difficult, and the connectors will be included. There will be photo instructions, and probably video at some point. I'm designing them to be as easy to install as possible.
I'm thinking that virtually everyone will be able to do install an IICE Air. Sometimes all it takes is for someone to say that. But even if you don't want to give it a go personally, you probably have a friend that can. It's definitely a 'buy your buddy a 6-pack for installing it' sort of thing.
Regarding the cheap pricing. The IICE Air is looking like around 70 dollars. I hope that doesn't put off the KLR owner in you.
Sign me up, give me one to try out and if I can install it without causing a solar eclipse anyone can. That in itself should be a great selling point. I can just see the ad now, " Installation so EASY, even Cob can do it." So sad but so true.
Jake, Jake, Jake ... eww.
So you're an enabler, not a disabler?
That comes later, like the next morning?
No rain in the forecast, for what that's worth.
Seriously though, you bringing that moonshine home?
In spite of the airlines worst efforts it should arrive intact.
Along with my ample self.Unless I win the big lotto, in which case I'll arrive in a much more regal manner. (read: bus)
<table border="0" cellpadding="5" width="650"><tr><td>Hey there Quester. That's a good question.
The devices are not capable of damaging any hardware component on the bike. And electrically, there's no way for the circuits to malfunction in a way that could harm any electrical component on the bike.
As a side note, it isn't really possible for the ECU to damage the motor. What I mean by that is, there isn't any operational mode of the ECU program that can cause damage to the motor.
<table border="0" cellpadding="5" width="650"><tr><td>I'm thinking that if you haven't seen any, it could be, as is often the case, a narrow frame of reference for the term 'performance'.
This is a good topic, let's talk about it. First though, could you tell me what you mean by 'dyno'. It sounds like you may be referring to the so-called 'eddy current' dyno. I want to be sure we're on the same page.
Hey Poolside, thanks for the assurances. I don't know that much about how these systems work, so have been doing my best to understand the explanations you and others have provided so far. Part of my concern about how tweaking things like how rich or lean the bike runs was triggered when I read this post:
From this it seems like the ECU *could* theoretically cause engine damage if it adjusted the AF mixture to run in the "red box" fosters discusses. Guess I just have to trust your device won't do that.
<table border="0" cellpadding="5" width="650"><tr><td>I get you, a lot of people think that about AF ratios.
Here's the graph from the link you posted.
See the three vertical dotted lines? The one in the middle is the 14.7 ratio. To the right of that line is a leaner mixture, to the left is richer. Modern catalyst-equipped motors are operated at a 14.7 AF ratio.
Start from the 14.7 dotted line and lean the mixture, looking to the right on the chart. As the AF is leaned past 14.7, the CHT and EGT curves both fall off.
The thing is, the ECU already operates the motor at peak temperatures the majority of the time. So if less fuel is injected, the temperature from combustion is reduced.
Notes. The dotted line on the right is the Best Efficiency AFR, and the dotted line on the left is Best Power AFR.
The bottom curve is Efficiency. It is the inverse of Fuel Consumption.
(The issue from the other post is related to unequal cylinder temperatures, which is an unavoidable reality with the majority of aircraft motors and their fuel delivery systems. The post isn't directly related to the typical vehicle ECU and catalyst-equipped motor.)
Neat chart. For those who don't feel like digging deeper, the acronyms are
EGT = exhuast gas temp
CHT = cylinder head temp
ICP = internal cylinder pressure
HP = you can figure this one out
BSFC = brake-specific fuel consumption
You've mentioned that your system will be easily adjustable, but is that in the garage or on the road? (At a gas station, that is. I'm not asking for on-the-go adjustment.) I'd like to be able to select leaner operation for fuel-efficient highway cruising, but then take 10 seconds to flip it into a richer mode for maximum hooliganism once I get where I'm going.
The new K1600s have selectable maps for cruising vs. sport. Gotta keep ahead of the joneses, you know....
The K I'm chasin is usually KTM and you really need to stay in the sweat spot with the Pyg if you want to stay ahead of the dust cloud.
With 90k miles on the clock I'm hoping the new "Black Box" will add a little after burner to the old Boxer.
Christmas is comin guy's
Okay, another question for you Poolside. This time safety related, and again, please pardon my ignorance if my lack of understanding of how these GS's work makes this a really dumb question.
Based on everything I've been reading here (and without actually ripping apart my new bike to check) it seems like these GS's have a "throttle by wire" system where there is no actual physical linkage between the throttle and the fuel valve(s), but rather everything is managed electronically. Is that right?
If so, then that's another potential area of concern if your device is going to be changing or overriding how the ECU responds to throttle inputs by using some kind of microcontroller connected up to the system. A device that just spoofs the air temperature sensor readings is one thing, and seems inherently fairly safe. But if yours do more than that, then there's a chance that a bug in your code could do something unexpected like switch the ECU into the Overrun Fuel Cutoff subroutine right when I need the throttle to get me through an intersection and out of the path of a semi.
Call me paranoid, but I'm an engineer and have seen how easily little design flaws in electronics or software bugs can trigger bizarre and completely unanticipated behaviour. That's one advantage large organizations like BMW have over one or two person enterprises - they have teams of people dedicated to all the detailed code reviews, fault testing, and validation that are required to ensure product safety... and even then problems can still crop up - can you say Toyota? :eek1
Good old throttle by "cable" but a valid point... unless Poolside says otherwise not valid in this instance though.
<table border="0" cellpadding="5" width="650"><tr><td>It's adjustable while on the trail, at a trail-side stop like you mentioned. The adjustment is via a jumper setting. There are 4 settings. Call them low, medium, high, and no change.
Jim, you know we can come up with better ADV-level names than those tired old horses.
no change = I'm skert
Low = Nancyboy:ymca
Medium = Was that a cop?:huh
High = Whiskey Throttle