Hotrodding the GS

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Poolside, Nov 18, 2010.

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  1. Poolside

    Poolside Syndicated

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    <BR>+1 on the "Will it work on the 1100S?" question. Thanks for taking care of my light work, PF! :-)

    <BR>
  2. Poolside

    Poolside Syndicated

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    Thanks for the thoughts. That does seem like a good idea. What happens in practice is, the melted plastic from the previous cut needs to be removed from the blade before the next cut or it starts making the kerf of the cut uneven, which affects the part dimension. Removing the plastic while it's liquid makes a bit of a mess. (think cheese from a hot pizza slice) And there's plastic to remove from whatever you used to remove the plastic from the hot blade. A vicious circle.

    Using a flame to heat the blade lets the plastic solidify between cuts, and the plastic can be removed easily. But in this case that doesn't matter. This was a surprise. Heating the blade with a flame also very cleanly burns off the plastic without residue if you can believe it. Well, surprisingly this type of PE plastic leaves no residue anyway.

    Acourse all of this is really only an issue if you're trying to do a dimensionally repeatable cut.




    Ok, I'm going in...

    <BR>
  3. pigfixer

    pigfixer Adventurer

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    [​IMG]
  4. Poolside

    Poolside Syndicated

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    <BR>Little help, please.

    A little birdie told me I should verify a dimension on a few of the R models to ensure that the wiring harnesses will fit. Sounds like a good idea to me, you know, before making a big batch of wiring harnesses.

    I need to verify the dimension illustrated below, on the GS, RT, and ST.

    If anyone can take that measurement on a GS, RT, or ST. I'd very much appreciate having confirmation of the measurements I took. I want to make sure they are correct. JVB has an ST so maybe he take the measurement on his bike.

    Thanks all.


    This is the distance to measure.
    [​IMG]


    Measure from the WIRE END of the air temp sensor connector...
    [​IMG]
    Picture by marchyman


    To approximately where the left side relay screw is located.
    [​IMG]
    Picture by myblubeemer

    <BR>
  5. marchyman

    marchyman DR and GS

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    Don't forget that at least some bike have the canister purge solenoid in that area, too.

    [​IMG]
  6. mdmaroon

    mdmaroon Mike

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    After cutting the plastic tube with a hacksaw, you could use a deburring tool, such as one of these:

    http://www.magtool.com/hand.html

    I see that you already found a way to cut them with a hot razorblade, but I don't know if that is easier, or more difficult that a hacksaw followed by manual deburring.

    Just my two cents worth....
  7. Poolside

    Poolside Syndicated

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    Thanks for the reminder. The wiring exits from the top of the connector (heh heh, where else), and routes over the top of that bracket. So it'll be fine.

    <BR>
  8. Poolside

    Poolside Syndicated

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    The hot razor work well enough, and there's no deburring or tiny plastic bits to clean up. Thanks for the input just the same.

    I tried the hacksaw a few pages back. It cuts ok, but there's the deburring. And it isn't just the deburring, it's leftover the 'chips' from cutting the plastic. The tiny chips static cling onto the vial, and get up into the cap seal.

    I have a MAG deburring tool over here. It works more or less ok on the ID, but as you can imagine it doesn't work on the OD. I have single-flute countersinks/chamfer bits for both ID and OD (not the MAG versions) but they don't work either. This plastic is just too soft.

    If any large production runs are done in the future, it will be done on a lathe with a drawbar-operated 5C soft internal collet for holding, and a rotary razor for cutting.

    <BR>
  9. wrysingfeenix

    wrysingfeenix Dust off those ashes

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    I love it when you talk dirty like that.

    :wink:

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  10. Poolside

    Poolside Syndicated

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  11. Hollow Road Rider

    Hollow Road Rider Some say Curmudgeon

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  12. Poolside

    Poolside Syndicated

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  13. dirtybikefrank

    dirtybikefrank Beast wrestler

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    My bike is ready to go faster....just sayin.:evil
  14. Poolside

    Poolside Syndicated

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  15. grpweld

    grpweld Been here awhile

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    If I recall correctly the second unit will be for 1100"s & 1150's correct?
  16. David_Moen

    David_Moen Long timer

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    Nope, "second unit" is the ICECool (sorry if I mangled the name) that fiddles with the fuel mixture based on oil temp/pressure inputs.
  17. ausfahrt

    ausfahrt mach schnell

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    :lol3


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  18. Poolside

    Poolside Syndicated

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    <BR>
    <table border="0" cellpadding="5" width="650"><tr><td>You're both right. The second product, the IICE Cool, has two versions. One for the 1100/1150 and the other for the 1200.

    The 1100/1150 version will arrive first, as it's already designed. What I mean by that is, the functional prototype works great. It's been on a couple of bikes, and I've been running it on my 1150 the whole time.

    The second IICE Cool version, for the 1200, is a more complex device. Specifically, it intercepts and manipulates CANbus data. There's quite a bit more to the 1200 version. It has at least one microcontroller, and may have two.
    </td></tr></table>
    <BR>
  19. Poolside

    Poolside Syndicated

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  20. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid!

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    Needed to take off the side pannel to get to it:

    [​IMG]

    Since the tank pannel goes down a little further, you need a bit more length. The ST needs about 7.5", depending on where you plan to mount it. I suspect, based on your above info, that you can attach it to the blank brass nut pictured. It will have to be pretty small to clear the seat bracket and seat though, not pictured.

    The RT configuration is different. This is the best photo I have at the moment:

    [​IMG]

    Jim :brow
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