How do you secure your dog? Post pics here.

Discussion in 'Hacks' started by RidingDonkeys, Mar 6, 2012.

  1. coupe1942

    coupe1942 Been here awhile

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    Dogs love to ride, but cats want to drive...

    Found that saying on a sign a while back. :-)


    Yeah, one has to look at each pooch individually as to what works best when they ride. What works for one may not work for another. I learned to keep my Jack Russell to the inboard side, but she can still scare the hell out of me at times, regardless. I thought of removing the seats and thus lowering the dogs in the hack, but when I actually did it, I just wasn't satisfied with the results, as my dogs expended much more energy in trying to see over the hack walls in that manner. One has to make adjustments as necessary and find what works best by trial and error, I suspect.

    Doggles, what are Doggles? :-)

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cw1grVC8Lkk
    #81
  2. DRONE

    DRONE Dog Chauffeur

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    Fun video! :rofl

    I actually think those might work if you put an under-the-snout strap on them.
    #82
  3. DRONE

    DRONE Dog Chauffeur

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    I posted up this info in the WUMPA thread but thought I'd preserve it for posterity here where it belongs.

    xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

    Kirby's Breakaway Restraint System

    My sidecar has a steel support bracket for the passenger seat that's bolted through the floor of the tub into the tubular frame. It's very strong. Kirby's plywood platform sits on top of this bracket (earlier post on this HERE.) On top of the plywood I use a memory foam dog mattress encased in a waterproof velour cover (this one) that also serves as his dog bed in the tent.

    You may have to experiment with your dog to find the right combo, but I used an ordinary 1/2-inch nylon dog leash. I attach the "handle" end to the passenger support bracket near the tub wall then feed the leash up the side between the plywood/mattress and the tub wall. I chopped off the other end and removed the scrap from the metal clip-snap. Now I have a bare strap attached to the chair and a bare clip-snap.

    Then I took a 1/2-inch plastic tri-glide slider and fed the strap through it upside down (Kirby weighs 47-lbs--with a heavier dog I'd feed it right side up.)--

    [​IMG]


    Next, I take the end of the strap and feed it through the clip-snap then back through the tri-glide--

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Note that this tri-glide is in the upside down position I mentioned above. If you feed it through right side up there is more friction on the strap and more holding power.

    Also note that in these pics I'm using a 1/2-inch strap but I'm using a 5/8-inch tri-glide. This is just because I couldn't find any 1/2-inch tri-glides this morning to use for the pics. The 5/8-inch tri-glide is heavier and harder to break than the 1/2-inch version.

    One additional note--the dog harness I use has a metal D-ring on the belly of the harness (from Coleash Kryptaglow-excellent product!) I don't use the D-ring that most harnesses have up on the dog's back between the shoulder blades. The belly ring allows Kirby to move around quite a bit inside the car without getting the strap tangled. I hoped this system would be strong enough to keep Kirby from chasing deer or squirrels. To check it (this was kinda mean but necessary) I clipped him in then encouraged him to jump out by teasing him with his favorite toy. He made a mad dash for the toy but ended up half in and half out of the sidecar suspended by the strap. But the strap held and the tri-glide had not moved!

    Then I experimented quite a bit to get the right length. I kept adjusting the length until I got it right, then I chopped off the leash so that only 1-inch of strap was sticking out of the tri-glide. Then I melted the end to prevent fraying.

    My strategy was that while the strap was strong enough to resist him jumping at deer, it would slip or break from the inertia of a crash. Of course, there was no way to test this until I actually had a crash. Which I did have.

    After the crash, Kirby's harness was intact and the metal clip-snap was attached to the belly ring--but with no strap! When I examined the car, the strap was there, the melted end told me that the strap had not broken, but the tri-glide was nowhere to be found. Looks like the tri-glide simply broke. Kirby was thrown some distance in the air but landed OK and was standing by my side totally calm and unscathed when I crawled out from under the bike.

    There are pros and cons to a breakaway system. Having a breakaway strap means that your dog won't drown in the lake or roll down the embankment when you have a crash. With a no-breakaway system the dog goes down with the ship even though YOU have been thrown clear! But the flip side to this is that if you have a crash, especially on pavement or in traffic, the dog might easily freak out and, if not restrained, run away. This might mean a lost dog, or might mean a dog hit by traffic after-the-fact. So it's kind of a toss-up and your decision of which way to go may depend firstly on (1) your dog and (2) what kind of riding you do.

    Another way of doing what I did without depending on a tri-glide would be to use some nylon braided fishing line (or equivalent) and making a loop that remains permanently attached to the D-ring (assumes you know how to tie a proper knot.) Then every time you go for a ride you attach your restraining strap to the braided loop instead of to the metal D-ring. Again, you'd have to experiment to determine how many loops of fish line to use for your dog knowing that at the end of the day, you are still just guessing on what's right. There's no way to know in advance how violent your crash is gonna be and is the system gonna work the way you want it to.
    #83
  4. rebelpacket

    rebelpacket four-stroke earth-saw

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    .
    #84
  5. MotoJ

    MotoJ Mobtown Hacker

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    [​IMG]

    I have an EasyRider harness from Baxterboo that Fred wears. Fastened to a stainless eye on the sidecar back deck with an adjustable length of chain, and also by a length of web leash attached across the nose opening. Not shown is another length of chain attached to left inside car to a ring on the harness. He can lie down, but can't stand up (depending on amount of slack I leave), and he can't be pitched out in hard lefts.

    I carry his leash with us, but I always disconnect it when we're driving so it doesn't flop out somehow and do an Isadora Duncan on the big guy.

    The lower seat is removed and I cut a piece of diamond plate pattern squishy bar mat for him to dig his claws into and cushion him at the same time. I think he's pretty comfortable. When we stop somewhere and I turn the motor off he barks until I start it up again, then he's happy.
    #85
  6. tony the tiger

    tony the tiger Long timer

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    I got a related question:
    Did your dog 'naturally take to riding' or was there some coaxing involved?
    My almost 1 year-old pup doesn't like murdersickles :cry
    #86
  7. Davis53

    Davis53 Been here awhile

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    Do you have a offset triple clamp on that BMW? To reduce trail?
    #87
  8. MotoJ

    MotoJ Mobtown Hacker

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    No, it has a ToasterTan upper billet clamp, stock lower, and a San Jose BMW style fork brace. Those together stiffen up the front end so there's no flex and wasted energy when turning. I lowered the front a little in the triple clamps, and used wide GS bars. It steers pretty easily. I have a leading link front end project I've collected parts for, but the steering hasn't been an issue since all the tweaking, so it's been on the back burner.

    It took awhile to get it dialled in, but it tracks nice now and almost no wobble. I have to hit an obstacle at low speed to get any shake.I have a dampener on there, but it's set back to hardly any pressure. It just made the steering harder.
    #88
  9. rebelpacket

    rebelpacket four-stroke earth-saw

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    [​IMG]

    Leash wrapped around my leg once, tied into a loose knot. Will throw her clear in the event the shiny side goes down, yet still strong enough to keep her in the hack when those pesky cattle get too close.
    #89
  10. davebig

    davebig Another Angry Hun !

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    http://www.ruffwear.com/Web-Master-Harness_2?sc=2&category=1131
    [​IMG]
    Justin likes Ruffwear but we need to rethink a mount, he makes up for my overbearing and boorish behavior with shy and retiring demeanor, unless your a streaky gopher or squirrel then your entitled to a quick death.
    He prefers to be down in the front facing forward to rise and look out the side when we slow doesn't like his face in the wind. A wonderful fellow to travel with.DB
    [​IMG]
    For rain the Tonneau.
    #90
  11. Davis53

    Davis53 Been here awhile

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    I am trying to get some /6 triple clamps made up with a offset to reduce trail.. I may have to make a few sets to get the cost down. But, lets see. My /6 steers like a 1950's truck. Thanks for the info.
    #91
  12. MotoJ

    MotoJ Mobtown Hacker

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    Mine's an /7, but I think they're the same. Shoot me a PM, I might be interested if it doesn't break the bank.
    Perry's Sidecars in Texas makes a set of airhead triple trees that reduce trail for about $450 if I remember correctly. You have to send them your trees and he reuses the stem, I think.

    [​IMG]

    This is a Perry's setup on Inmate Pfestus' /5....

    [​IMG]
    #92
  13. Davis53

    Davis53 Been here awhile

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    As soon as I get a price I will let you know.
    #93
  14. pfestus1

    pfestus1 Slasher

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    Well, MotoJ, I was a bit surprised to see my /5 posted. Good for you. I was just thinking about going to look for that pic and post. You saved me the trouble. Perry's triple tree does do a good job of making the steering easier. He does need the stem from a donor triple tree.
    #94