How "grease swingarm" on 91 paralever?

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by bbcmat, Sep 11, 2011.

  1. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

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    I forgot to mention that Guy's unit uses a stock shaft, in fact, you could send him a core. Pretty sure thats what I did. I have both kinds. I loaned the HPM's to a friend when his stocker blew up earlier this summer, and I have been running the Emerald for a year or two, now.

    I even forget the prices, now, but I'm pretty sure both are cheaper than stock. I like HPM's because he is good guy, American business, inmate here, etc and not least he does world class work.
    #21
  2. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    There is a slightly used OEM driveshaft available there if anyone needs one:

    http://marketplace.ibmwr.org/ads/raps

    Just checked on the newer price of them pivot bearings. Me don't like, scratched that off my list of spares for now.Same bearings on ALL the BMW Paralevers.

    I know where most, if not all them bulletins are. Mr. Jackd did you dig out the GSs out of there?

    OK...anyone wants the link, I won't post it here. PM me....but I am pretty busy, don't swamp me...!:wink: Would much rather send it to someone with more time who could dig out the relevant bulletins and pass them around. Copyrighted material it is.:wink:
    #22
  3. Padmei

    Padmei enamoured

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    You are so cute you know that:D
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  4. jackd

    jackd Long timer

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    H96669 - I pulled off what I thought was relevant but then things got real busy here (moved to VI, life style changes, etc.) and then my computer blew up. So all the info from the link was on the old hard drive. I'll check back in my pm's to see if I can find the link there.

    I've also removed those bearings and serviced them over the years. That said I've probably mixed and matched them with different inner and outer races as well and have had success. Someone on the forum gave BMW Tech info awhile back that stated you shouldn't do that, because the manufacturing clearances are so critical. Personally I think the bearings are under-sized strength wise for what they have to do - in other words they're shit... I just tend to leave them alone for fear that they'll disintegrate by just looking at them.

    Oh yes, Bereahorn has been doing that for a couple of years now whenever I post. Thankfully he lives back east or he'd be stalking me in my neighbourhood.
    #24
  5. CptImagine

    CptImagine NCC-1701-B

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    Stagehand, I rcieved a email reply back from Guy at Hendersen . 3 week turn around, using my shaft, $450. with return shipping and he's an American bussiness man . I'm mailing it tomorrow . Thanks for the input, I'm planning to find out from him as well what for grease to use it the u-joints . I'll post that here then .
    #25
  6. camgregus

    camgregus riding gently now

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    :lurk

    mine
    disintegrated....

    I
    looked.....
    #26
  7. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

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    What does that mean? Did you get one of the ones that the urethane didnt cure correctly?
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  8. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

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    If I remember right, the ones that had the urethane disintegrate also had leaky output shaft seals and had gear oil on them? Did anyone ever look into whether the gear oil may have degraded the urethane or was this just an issue of inadequate mixing/portioning of the two urethane components?
    #28
  9. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

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    I had heard it was simply a few shafts that got mixed wrong. If it was gear oil, mine would have blown :D
    #29
  10. jackd

    jackd Long timer

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    I think that he's referring to the FD bearings not the drive shaft. I had one of mine fail suddenly on one not-so-spirited ride - when I first got the bike. The bike suddenly seemed to have a much more squishy handling to it - if that's a way to put it. There was no prior warning as I did a daily pre-ride check in this area less than an hour previous. I use a torque wrench when I put them in everytime. The flimsy plastic bearing cage is the weakest spot in the design.
    #30
  11. AntonLargiader

    AntonLargiader Long timer

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    It does not. The hole is through the center of the pin, not through the bearing.
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  12. CptImagine

    CptImagine NCC-1701-B

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    With solid pivot pins, the only holes are bottomed and for allen wrenches, the factory data says " vents through pivots" ???? Swingarm pins solid, FD pins solid, and screwed down rubber boots fore and aft . Along with factory warnings to "not grease bearings" ? That is why I assumed there's air where grease is sposta be comment . That along with the sorry. lame a$$ so called seal that come with the SW bearing . It;s a hard plastic spacer, and little more . IMO Beyond abnormal air venting, ie. " thru a bearing", there was no venting in this swingarm . That prompted me to drill the SW and put the undersized cotter pin in same hole .
    #32
  13. jackd

    jackd Long timer

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    I'm not reallly that worried about 'venting'. Factory data can be wrong - I see it in aviation. If there is any atmospheric pressure changes inside the swingarm as it goes through its travels, for all I know it goes back through the seal into the final drive - and then vents overboard (I have very little faith in the FD input seal because mine pukes oil forward when I'm handling it during maintenance but somehow is oil tight when the bike is in service - and please no one suggest that I change it because its faulty). I have replaced this swingarm several years ago due to PO damage caused by a failed shock and inspected and greased the swingarm bearings then. No big deal. The bike is up on a hoist and I'm prepping to dig into the shaft any day now - here's hoping that the shaft re-grease is uneventful.
    #33
  14. Prutser

    Prutser Long timer

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    There is a small triangular hole above the outputshaft seal that works as a breather hole for the swing arm.
    Those holes can also cause gearbox oil to leak into the swing arm. The oil vapors causing the grease of the u-joint bearings to get thinner. Therefore not lubricating the U-joints like they should.

    This same problem happens with drive shaft splines of the K75/100. But than its the leaking seal in the FD most of the time.(or gearbox)

    The re-buildable shafts should be serviced every 10,000 km !! As was told to me by Mat from the Boxer Toko.

    IMO Trying to get grease trough the grease point is tricky. As the grease is pushed trough it "should" lube all 4 bearings.
    But I have often seen that the grease takes the easiest way out and will squirt out of 1 bearing. And its not going trough the other ones.

    When those axles where new nobody could tell me what type of grease to use.
    After asking a company how did nothing but re-building drive shafts, they gave me some grease that is so thick and sticky,
    that it will never be possible to get it trough the holes into the bearings!!!
    So every time I took it apart and stuffed the u-joint bearings and mounted everything again.

    (i'm sorry I don't know what type of grease it was)
    #34
  15. jackd

    jackd Long timer

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    That's the big question. Do you use a very sticky wheel bearing type grease or some less viscous utilitarian variety that pumps easier - and if it pumps easier, does it provide the required protection for those needle type bearings that one finds in u-joint bearing caps? This is turning into a grease thread.... :rofl
    #35
  16. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

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    10,000K's, even 10,000 miles is too short of an interval to go taking that poor thing apart :cry
    #36
  17. jackd

    jackd Long timer

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    I'm going in after only 3,500 miles and not because I have to. I figure a re-grease now will keep me going for another 10K. I'll get to see how this aftermarket shaft is actually doing. The bike needs so little this year in the way of work, that I'm actually looking for things to do. :huh Don't worry, I spent the last 5 years undoing all the bad things that PO's had done to it, and it is now where I want it to be mechanically.
    #37
  18. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    I just had a driveshaft rebuilt by Bruno in Canada.Not a GS this time, but still a BMW with the very same U-joints.And that one spins much faster....:rofl I think his recommendation is lube at each tire change. It now has over 10,000 kms and is on my bench. I may just remove one of them U-joints and see for myself how much grease is left. I bet there is plenty and then I'll make up my own mind as to the lube intervals.

    His recommendations for lube is Synthetic grease, so I just went to the marine shop and bought Amsoil synthetic water resistant.

    If I have a chance I'll dig up my pics, may interest some as to what I found for cause of failure on some of them U-joints. Looks like moisture may just seep in between the yoke and U-joint caps, create corrosion which in turn tightens up the caps over the needles/cross....creates more friction/heat, grease runs out and then the joint fails. I sure found corrosion between the caps/yoke and wear marks inside the caps that almost exactly match with the outside corrosion.

    So now....to prevent that ingress of moisture, I coat the outside with very sticky grease, as in cable grease out of the 5 gallons buckets at work.I don't think there is anything stickier on the market. Sure was still all there when I removed my driveshaft after 10,000 Kms.

    Or.....I could also show my parts to Mr. Jackd, may have some time and will be on the big island toward the end of January. Clean enough to put on the table at Starpucks, they are BMW after all.....:wink:
    #38
  19. ignatz72

    ignatz72 call me iggy

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    Hell jackd, come down to Memphis and I'll let you replace my GS's swingarm and FD bearings.

    I'll even let you setup a tent in the yard for free! :deal
    #39
  20. jackd

    jackd Long timer

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    I'll be there tonight....
    #40