How the hell did you torq your Rox risers ?

Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by Rob Dirt, Nov 9, 2012.

  1. Rob Dirt

    Rob Dirt More or less in line

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    I don't know how I can mount these risers exactly how I want & still be able to use a torq wrench. I guess I can cut an allen wrench down to fit in there & just guess at the torq value.

    Please tell me how you tightened yours down.
    #1
  2. Vincenthdfan

    Vincenthdfan Been here awhile

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    Just use German Torque...Gude-n-tite! :D
    #2
  3. kag

    kag Wander Lust

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    x2 with a little Blue Loctite or at least i did
    #3
  4. Sock Monkey

    Sock Monkey 99% bullshitter...the other 1% is just lies

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    +1 :lol3

    -SM
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  5. Anticyclone

    Anticyclone Ride more worry less

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    Rotate the bars forward, then tighten down the bolts that would be blocked by the bars, then rotate the bars into position, then tighten the now easily accessible front bolts.

    Bob's your uncle.
    #5
  6. Smopho

    Smopho Been here awhile

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    Torque a bolt in place without the bars with a torque wrench, then put an allen on it and tighten it until it just starts to move to get a feel for that amount of torque. For bolts that size in aluminum I typically use three fingers on the allen. Then put the bars in, tighten one side you won't be able to reach down until you can just slide a couple of business cards between the riser clamp and riser. Rotate the riser and bars into their final positon. Then tighten the side you can reach with an allen wrench using the "feel" you memorized. Or just tighten the crap out of it with the allen and forget about the torque wrench. But use the gap method and you'll find out the riser clamps come out with a very close to equal gap on each side.
    #6
  7. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    This is how I did mine. Cinch rear bolts first, rotate bar back into position, torque front bolts.
    #7
  8. cug

    cug --

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    Remember to bring the front ones flush, then torque rear, rotate where you want them, torque front (bigger bolts). If you torque the rear ones (normally the smaller ones) first, then torque the front you also get more torque on the rear. So be careful of order, then you're good.

    The manual calls for tightening the front first (35Nm), that's to get the front flush and to be able to put precise torque on the smaller bolts. You can't do that with the Rox risers, but you can't at least make the front flush first.
    #8
  9. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    I believe the op is referring to the bolts for the clamps to the triple, not to the bars.

    [​IMG]

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=312718
    #9
  10. cug

    cug --

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    I'm not referring to the bars either.

    1) Get your Rox risers in, hand tight the bolts
    2) Get the front bolt (the bigger one) flush
    3) Mount the handle bar in the Rox clamps
    4) Rotate whole enchilada forward
    5) Torque the rear (smaller) bolts of the OEM mount
    6) Rotate risers where you want them
    7) Torque front (bigger) bolts of OEM mount
    8) Torque Rox clamp bolts

    Btw: a lot of people found that the hole in the Rox riser is perfectly aligned to torque the rear bolt for a very good position for most riders. That worked perfectly well for me when I was using the Rox risers. Then you can torque according to the Triumph manual.
    #10
  11. Rob Dirt

    Rob Dirt More or less in line

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    Cug knows what I'm talking about on the T8. Your supposed to torque the front bolts, then the rear bolts. Right now I have the risers mounted as far forward as I could put them & still get an Allen socket through the hole in the risers. I would prefer to push them a bit more forward, but there is no way I could tighten the rear bolts last.
    Thanks for all the help.
    #11
  12. burmbuster

    burmbuster Long timer

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    Just lined the bars up like I want and snugged 'me down.
    #12
  13. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

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    Ah, ok, the Ulysses do not have any access holes as they are offset. I was forced to rotate the whole thing forward, cinch the rear bolts first, then rotate the whole thing back to access the front bolts and only torque them. The bar to clamps then torqued normally.
    #13
  14. FuzzyDunlop

    FuzzyDunlop Been here awhile

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    I found that I could tighten the inaccessible bolts using a ball head allen key. The ball head allows you to insert the key at an angle.
    #14
  15. 996DL

    996DL Buell me

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    Holy feeler gauges Batman ! :eek1 :lol3

    Just ordered the above product yesterday morning, to allow me the option to raise the forks through the triple trees, without handlebar clearance issues, on my new to me 2010 XB12X.

    And all this, to coincide with the German Metisse rear shock lowering collar, that's heading it's way to me.

    Needless to say, I'll be saving this thread, into my Uly Suspension folder. :evil :thumb

    Also sourcing a set of MSR carbon steel YZ low bend handlebars, in case I'm not comfortable with the increased bar height, with the Rox riser install.

    996DL
    Kinda on the short side... :wink:
    #15
  16. scapegoat

    scapegoat Pushin forward back

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    I have Rox risers on my 06 Uly, no less pain in the ass setting them up and getting to the allens. Did you order the Buell specific ones?
    #16
  17. 996DL

    996DL Buell me

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    Yes, once I noticed the Buell specific model listed, with full 7/8" sizing without the need for sleeves,
    the order was made from the Rox homepage. :thumb

    996DL
    #17