How to make your own Carbon Fiber fairing....

Discussion in 'Parallel Universe' started by ebrabaek, Aug 29, 2010.

  1. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    :D:D..... I am currently toying with the idea.....except....they will be in Kevlar.....for the extra.....ehhhh...........abrasive resistance.....:lol3... I think a set in yellow...( like the kevlar I used in the bash plate...) would compliment the bumblebee nicely.....:evil:evil.... Just imagine....A set of 5 lbs panniers.....:eek1:eek1

    :thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #81
  2. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Rode it this morning to the airport...... For the first time at 70+ mph......
    I am quite familiar with the effect on energizing laminar air flow......But in a different application .....aviation. But today I have found new respect for it.
    The screen is in the same position height, as when I just taped it to the screen. There are a lot difference. With the gap between the screen and fairing......( in the high pos.) the flow is a lot calmer...... I had somewhat calm air before....but with turbulence.... This have now been minimized. It is quite pleasant, and in many instances more pleasant than my tall Ztechnik.
    I really think I have lucked out here.....but will take the score.......:thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #82
  3. markymcd

    markymcd Been here awhile

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    do you think that an additional inverted triangle cutout in the main carbon fibre section would further improve the flow or hinder?
    #83
  4. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Funny you`d mention this...... I was q`ing myself the same question the day before yesterday. I thought that if one cut a 4-5 inch wide by 5-6 inch triangle out to aide the vision of the front wheel..... I know...I know....stupid could`nt help it...:D..... But first I think that it would destroy the nice lines it now have. That is personal taste...... nevertheless....mine....he-he. Back to your question...... Chasing "energizing of laminar flow"......is sort of like chasing horsepower.....in a way..... You need a wind tunnel for it.... Like you need a dyno for the latter. You can do a lot of calculation in both matters but......the only way to know is to use the machines. There are a few principles that one can follow though...... And I struck gold. I`m not trying to elevate myself here....anyone with this knowledge can do this..... but if you follow a few guidelines you can usually improve the " quality of air"....in your face. There have been many experiments to aid the laminar flow in the aviation world..... One of the most interesting....to me..... was a Nasa/General Dynamics test involving using compressed air from the engines ( same air that jets use to presurize the cabin for the occupants) send it out through small pinholes in the wing to study the effect the boundary layer airflow now being excited. It involved some complex mechanics, but followed the very simple principle of energizing the laminar flow of air. In essence the same that I just experienced by introducing a small 1/2-3/4 inch gap between the fairing and screen. I`m surely not the first one thinking about this application...... I know of at least one screen manufacture that applies said gap in their fairing with great success. I have always thought that I`d not much care for the looks of the gap in the screen itself, and thought if I were to try this....The gap had to be between the fairing and the screen....achieving better lines....imho. Stunned I am to see how effective it is in this first try. All that said above......I`m sure most of you have fallen asleep, and the ones not....have either spilled the espresso on the keyboard or switched to something stronger......:lol3:lol3..... I think .....and that`s all.....think... that if I increase that gap any much bigger....the effect will diminish the efficiency of this setup......specially with the addition of rain....which is a solid......and is a bully in aerodynamical terms.... Not confining to the flow.....but more yielding to gravity acceleration.....trying to follow the lighter air molecules chasing to rejoin the main airflow........OMG........See.....now you got me energized..:eek1:eek1
    Time to switch to de-caf.....:thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #84
  5. markymcd

    markymcd Been here awhile

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    about a year ago I was messing around with custom screen ideas... fell to the wayside. I used the MadStad Robobracket attached the the 800 screen and braced by the BMW touring brace. I then cut up a Powerbronze screen to use as the front screen. Worked fine but man was it a pain in the ass to adjust.

    The huge thing that I discovered during my experiments was that a lot of the buffeting on your head/helmet was coming from down low.

    I created a prototype winglet that fit behind the stock 800 screen to deflect the low wind better. Made quite a big difference.

    You might want to try it out on your screen. I know we all think that making the screen taller is the answer but it's more air management as you know.

    cheers,
    Mark

    [​IMG]
    #85
  6. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Interesting.....And I agree...... Without a tunnel...... It`s off course..... just my assumption.... But.... I also think that is the case regarding the air being disturbed from below. The beak is a main culprit...imho..... I suspected that most of the burbles were from the beak area...flowing through the side of the headlight between the screen and cluster.... up over the air intakes through the handle bars...... And as you suggested....it comes from below. Question.... When you did the testing.... Did you have the bash guards on at the time????? They help your fingers.... But in general create turbulence. I might try test by adding to the side of the fairing/headlight area...... But in honesty... I really like the way it sits right now......:thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #86
  7. markymcd

    markymcd Been here awhile

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    it kind of end up being an 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' if you get something that's working.

    the great benefit of your system, and the one I have now (Touratech Desierto), is that the adjustability allows it to work for different height people and different riding conditions.

    I think everyone wishes they had the material, patience, capability, and motivation to make the parts like you are. Including me of course.
    #87
  8. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Yeppers..... And as has been covered..... The D3....don`t work for all, as some have reported they work great, and some others.....not so great......And perhaps the " not so great" ones can learn from what you improved upon the D3, to suit them even better. I like the way yours look with the different screen.....Much better than what the D3 comes with....imho.....:thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #88
  9. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Just visited the friendly folks at San Diego BMW today...... Picked up a pair of xenon H7 from 1off motorsports..... Looking forward to install them in the fairing in the next couple of days when I get back home.....:thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #89
  10. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    #90
  11. RobTheRigger

    RobTheRigger Killing threads here since 2008

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    You sir, are an artisan in every sense of the word. I've wanted to make an enduro fairing for a while now, to try and solve the air flow issues and to mount my Navigator III above the dash so I don't have to look down to navigate. This has really been informative! Thank you!

    Rob
    #91
  12. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Thanks Rob.

    Unfortunately unless you have a access to a wind tunnel it`s hard to predict the influx of the fast moving air. I will say this..... You can generally diminish it somehow..... Might not be perfect...... But better. Then the real benefit comes in with the CF..... You can sculpt it to your own liking. Make exactly what you want. If/when you decide to go ahead.... Post it so I can help as you go along....:thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #92
  13. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Got this screen from a fellow friend and 8GS rider.....hacked it....and tried it. It`s a little bigger.....and I decided to strengthen the composite fairing with a strip of honey comb......I can now ride with the visor open...... :clap
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    :thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #93
  14. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Thanks.....:thumb:thumb

    Erling
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  15. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    I don't mind at all Matti.... I am thrilled my fairing has a Bavarian twin.....:D it looks great..... And as you mentioned..... Once sanded..... Will be fine. Please keep the pics comming, as it is great to see the progress.....:thumb:thumb

    Erling
    #95
  16. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    How did the finished product turn out...?????
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  17. Barbadi

    Barbadi Been here awhile

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    I'm going down the same path, since I had an MRA screen thing once that worked that way and quite well. The whole MRA screen setup though was not big enough to give any serious wind protection but anyway...

    I 've been experimenting with laminar air flow on my own screen project -we talked about it on "how to cover your f 800 in cf" thread- and trying out setups. Could you please tell me what is the distance between screen and fering on your setup?

    Thanks.
    #97
  18. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    Absolutely.
    I have 25mm distance between the CF faring, and the screen. Just enough for a little bit of air. I am 185 cm tall, and use , what you would refer to as, a tall seat. So I sit a bit taller on the bike as compared to average. Hope this helps. If not, fire away.:freaky
    #98
  19. Barbadi

    Barbadi Been here awhile

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    A. when you heat to cure the epoxy how long do you heat it and at what temp? I use a 3 halogon lamp heater about half a meter from the item that goes up to 60 Celsius (120to 130 F?) for about 2 hours. Is it enough? I have watched some sunbathing of your stuff... how do you calculate it?

    B. Is there an safe and durable way to paint epoxy, at home (mo painting controled environment etc spraycan paint mostly)? I thought how come there is no color pownder to be mixed to the epoxy catalyst mixing stage to give it color and save it from scratcing?

    Thanks again.
    #99
  20. ebrabaek

    ebrabaek Long timer

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    You have to elevate it to at least 150 F......@ 6 hrs..... or 200 deg F for 2 hrs to be safe. 120-130 is not enough.
    I use an infrared thermometer to measure it...and the hot desert sun yields about 140-160 F.

    Painting epoxy is easy with any form of sprayer. No different than a car paintung. As far as spraying the epixy.... no you cannot do that.
    pigment in the epoxy can be had...but you need to consult the maker of the epoxy to discuss it. Just because some epoxys might not tollerate it well.
    The cure time varies from epoxy type to epoxy time.