How to NOT ruin tubes during tire mounting?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Rob.G, May 1, 2013.

  1. HapHazard

    HapHazard Waiting for Gudenov

    Dec 30, 2009
    Central CT
    I presume you mean tire, not tube? Make sure that the bead of the tire is down in the well of the wheel - if it is sitting on the bead seat area, you won't be able to get it over the rim and you can ruin the tire. Also, use lots of tire mounting lube. The last few inches will usually go on with a few well placed shots with a rubber hammer (also great for releasing tire-mounting frustration).:D
  2. emti

    emti Been here awhile

    Aug 26, 2010
    northern n.y.
    Put one bead on, then the rim lock, (leave the nut on the end of the bolt) then the tube, then the second bead.make sure the bead is below the rubber on the rimlock. Use the exposed nut and bolt to push the rimlock up into the tire. emti
  3. itsatdm

    itsatdm Long timer

    Jun 19, 2004
    Nor Ca.
    Once I get the tire stem in and a nut threaded on, I partially inflate the tire to get the wrinkles out. I then deflate it and start spooning it on without going past 90 degrees with the irons.

    Make sure that the tire is depressed into the center of the rim. You can do that with the palm of your hands. Usually it requires repeated effort.

    I do powder the tube and afterwards carry them in a sealed plastic bag for off road use.

    It must work, I used to get a puncture on every install and it has been ages since I have done that.
  4. NYTrainer

    NYTrainer Been here awhile

    Apr 6, 2010
    Geneseo, NY
    After breaking two stubbies (Because I am apparently unable to follow the directions that came with them), I have a buddy with a tire changing stand change them for me.

    The Stubbies come with great directions. Pay special attention to the "drop center", when changing the tire. It is the key to spooning on a difficult dirt tire.
  5. buls4evr

    buls4evr No Marks....

    Sep 16, 2009
    Michissippi & Nuevo Mexico

    The key is to have the opposite side of the tire bead down in the rim valley. I also use 3 short irons (MotionPro or MSR) and short purchases not huge ones. I just step on the bead with my foot/feet. I always put the valve stem side on first with the nut on 2 threads and also back out any rim lock to 2 threads. When you start mounting make sure the rim lock nut can be depressed all the way to the rim and the bead is by it. You should have rim-tire bead - lock then tube pushing on it. When you are done you should be able to push the rim lock back in and the tube will push it back out. I also eliminate the rubber strip on the rim and run Gorilla Tape on the spoke line so everything stays in the right place. Nothing more annoying than having that rim strip be over a hole that it is not supposed to be covering. Otherwise.... Good slippins,talcum powder just a touch of tube air are key. If it takes 2 people you are doing it wrong.
  6. Scootern29

    Scootern29 Long timer

    Sep 4, 2012
    In the hot, hot, dezert
    For the last 8 inches or so of the bead I make sure it is lubed real well and have pressure on it and pound it with a rubber mallet over the rim. It works real easy IMO.
  7. .fisher

    .fisher pissin' in the wind

    Oct 29, 2007
    Chicago, MEH

    I once read or watched a tutorial on tire mounting somewhere that noted "if you're working hard, you're doing it wrong". I'm just as guilty of this as the next guy cursing my way through spooning a tire on. Slow down, work smart.

    Good to read about not pushing the irons past 90º, I think that's where I've gotten in trouble and pinched a few tubes. Hopefully I don't have to test that theory soon…