how to remove 1980 R65 air filter

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by rustygardhouse, Jul 9, 2012.

  1. rustygardhouse

    rustygardhouse rusty

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    Well I thought it was easy...

    I read through the section on removing the air filter in my Clymer's manual & had a good look at the parts sheet from www.realoem.com.

    It sounded straight forward.

    Well, I thought the part in the manual about removing the starter cover was a bit odd; when I read the section on removing the starter, the first instruction was to remove the air box housing. A bit circular that: to remove the starter, first remove the air box housing then the starter cover but to remove the air filter, first remove the starter cover then the air box housing.

    Sigh...

    So.

    Following most of the manual, I removed the L/H carb induction tube, plugged the carb, removed the screw holding the halves together & presto! It didn't come off!

    Part of the problem is that the I'm not sure how to remove the crankcase vent line from the housing. In my manual, there is absolutely no mention of removing this line!

    Which has landed me once again in the gentle hands of this forum.

    I'm thinking this can't be brain surgery so I am obviously missing something. What is it?

    As a side question, can I damage the diode board if I pull the starter cover w/o disconnection the battery? The manual is a bit nebulous on this.

    Thanks!
    #1
  2. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    Rusty,

    I tried to figure out which air cleaner a 1980 R65 has on the Real OEM site but it was not clear. Do you have the aluminum housing with a round air filter or the plastic with a flat filter?

    Either one it is not necessary to remove the starter or the starter cover to get the air filter out, although I don't know the flat one at all, I'm pretty confident of this.

    From the brief description of your operation so far it sounds like you have a round air filter. That's the one I know because I have that one. After removing the long center bolt and the air tube on the left side the left half will come off. It is probably stuck because the clamp spring, part #1, is tight. Pull harder. You don't want to pry with anything sharp that will scratch or force it with too much force but it sounds like you have to use a little more force than what you have been. The left half pulls straight out, not up and out.

    When putting the new filter in and trying to get it to stay in place when the cover is put back on it wants to fall down. You may ave to hold the filter up with a finger or tool while the cover is positioned.

    The actual hard part is getting the long bolt back in. Even using a flashlight and trying several times most keep missing the hole in the right cover. There are several tricks. my fav is to take the right side tube off and you can stick the fingers in the right cover to feel the hole, then guide the long bolt home.

    If that's not the filter you have then wait for the right answer.
    #2
  3. wirewrkr

    wirewrkr the thread-killer

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    1980 should have the flat type aircleaner, but not plastic. one year only cast aluminum
    #3
  4. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer

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    Sounds like somebody may have retrofit the round filter and housing. Unless it's not an 80 R65.............
    #4
  5. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    I didn't know which filter it is. He says "pulled the screw holding halves together" sounds like round air filter. I guess he got it apart.
    #5
  6. rustygardhouse

    rustygardhouse rusty

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    thanks to everyone for replying.

    It's an mid '80s R65 with a round air filter, not the square one.

    [​IMG]

    It seems that this year was some sort of odd transition; there's a bunch of different options & sorting this out is becoming a bit of a chore.

    On the other hand, it will give no end of fodder for the forum.

    I did exactly as disston wrote: pulled the l/h induction tube, removed the long bolt, gave a firm tug on the l/h cover & the cover came loose.

    But not free; on the bottom forward corner is what I think is one of the rubber engine vent lines that goes into the cover. I'm not sure how this line gets removed.

    Or. more importantly, re-installed!


    It's dark & rainy in Canberra so a picture of the offending tube might have to wait a bit.

    Thanks for the finger-in-the-other-side trick for the bolt. I figured that one out pretty quick. Sort of re-affirmed that I'm not a total looser!

    R
    #6
  7. boxerboy81

    boxerboy81 Stay Horizontal

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    Twin shock or monolever? Either way, it looks like a po has retrofitted the the round airbox/filter. Some do that.
    That vent tube would've needed some ingenuity as the round filter gets in the way of the flat filter setup. Might be worthwhile returning to stock and keeping maintenance simple. Other than personal preference for the aesthetics, and maybe cheaper air filters (???) I'm unsure of any other advantage of keeping the round cover. This fiche is from the maxbmw site and says it's to 9/82, then there's a similar picture from 9/82. The only difference I can tell is that the right snorkle is shaped differently at the opening.
    [​IMG]
    #7
  8. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    Lower forward corner of left airbox cover sounds like the fuel cross over. Is it fuel line?
    #8
  9. boxerboy81

    boxerboy81 Stay Horizontal

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    One left tap on the R65? No crossover.

    Rusty, what's the vin number. Go here....http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi
    The month/year of manufacture would have you knowing how it should be.
    #9
  10. DaveBall

    DaveBall Long timer

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    1980 R65 has one fuel tap on left side of tank, and has a crossover fuel line to feed the right carb. This fuel line runs thru the front notch of the air filter cover. If the air filter clam shell has not been removed for some time, it can be a pita to remove as sometimes it will corrode enough to seem to weld itself to the clamp that is supposed to just position and hold it in place. You need to do some prying with a non-marking implement and wiggling back and forth. Sometimes the fuel line will break where it goes into the housing.

    The cross over fuel line is a metric size that is best purchased from the BMW shop, as it is not the same outside diameter as what we would call standard fuel line found at your local auto shop. What you get at local auto shop will not fit in the nice little notches in the clam shell.

    Also, sometimes previous owners have tightened the clamp down to the point of bending the clamp which then does NOT want to release the clam shell, or they have installed the clamp backwards. You can sometimes reach in thru the air tubes and destroy a part of the current filter so that you can use about 12 universal joints and a 10mm socket to loosen the clamp. But, that usually involves 2 midgets, a donkey and lots of good ale.
    #10
  11. rustygardhouse

    rustygardhouse rusty

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    Well, I'm back.

    Here's the vitals on the bike:

    Chassis number: 6348245
    Vehicle code: 0353
    Series: 248
    Model: R65
    Body type: ohne
    Catalog model: ECE
    Production date: 1980/05
    Twin shock

    Here's a crappy view of the air box:

    [​IMG]

    It's not the fuel cross over; there is a notch in the cover for that.

    On the inner leading edge of the cover is a cast in lump that has this 'other' line going into it. By the looks of things, everything looks like it's suppose to be there.

    I'm not saying that someone hasn't change the air box but...

    When I pull up the files for this chassis number, I get what the bike has.

    I'm still trying to get time to take a picture of this. Although I was hoping some '80 R65 old hand would pop up & say 'Oh that! this is how you deal with that...' it seems a picture is going to be the only way to solve this.

    On the other hand, I am learning a lot about this bike! In a sideways sort of way...

    R
    #11
  12. DaveBall

    DaveBall Long timer

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    Looking at your picture, it is definitely the standard clamshell. It is exactly the same as on my 1980 R45. The bikes are pretty much identical at this point. I don't see any other hoses or lines going into the left side, other than that big black one, which you already know is the air feed to the left carb. Near the top is the choke handle, with cables attached. Leave that attached.

    Just remove the tube to the carb, which can be a bit of a pain sometimes, more so getting back on. Then undo the long screw that holds it all together. It goes thru the centre of the filter to the other side. The do the wiggle, swear at it, wiggle some more, get some sort of plastic to pry slightly with, wiggle some more and swear at it. Sit back, have a beer and then all of a sudden, it will just pop off all by itself. Or so it will seem.

    Inside the whole thing you should find a tube that comes from the crankcase breather that feeds oily air to the filter area, much like a PCV valve in a car. It is not attached to the clamshell, or at least shouldn't be. It usually goes to the right side of the airbox, but a previous owner may have moved it.

    See if you can take a closer picture of this other line you speak of. I just don't see one.
    #12
  13. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    What? You expect us to know what we are talking about? That's a good one. :freaky
    #13
  14. rustygardhouse

    rustygardhouse rusty

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    Well disston, hope springs eternal...

    OK, here a couple of crappy picture that don't show a lot:


    [​IMG]



    At the corner of the housing you can barely see the engine vent hose that goes into a cast in hole in the housing. At this point in the removal, the back of the housing bumps into the battery housing.


    When I pry the hosing apart, I can see the engine vent line & the feature in the housing it goes into.

    [​IMG]



    So, is this a matter of swing the battery housing out of the way & letting housing hang on the breather line?

    Is this getting us any further done the removal road?

    Oh, here's a trick from my aircraft days...

    When I installed the induction boot last time, I smeared the surfaces with DC4 compound. Easy on! Easy off! Just like P&W push rod tube seals!

    R
    #14
  15. boxerboy81

    boxerboy81 Stay Horizontal

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    OK...it's a mid 1980, ie May, not mid 1980's eg 1984-5 twin shock.

    That clarifies it. It's all in the language sometimes.


    Correct... mea culpa. My head had it differently, and incorrect.
    #15
  16. DaveBall

    DaveBall Long timer

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    OK, those latest pictures help.

    1. Remove the battery, you need to slide the clamshell back a we bit more.
    2. I still do not see any extra hoses attached, unless you are thinking of the 2 choke cables. They should have enough length on them to be able to remove the clamshell and let hang from them.
    3. The current air filter in there is not installed correctly, it is sideways.
    4. Sometimes the rubber ends on the air filter will adhere themselves to the aluminum casing and make it hard to pull apart.

    From What I see, after removing the battery, you should be able to get your hand in the back side there and fingers in the front and just pull out to the side of the bike. May have to try and pry the air filter away from the casing a bit to loosen it.

    Don't be to afraid of using some good force and wiggling.
    #16
  17. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    Actually I don't think so. The picture that shows the airfilter is taken from the rear and slightly above. See the aluminum protrusions of the clam shell that locate the airfilter when assembled. The two shells are separated enough for the filter to now have fallen down.

    I still don't see the problem tho. I sometimes hit things with a big hammer when they don't move. In this case I might even use my rubber hammer so I do less damage.
    #17
  18. rustygardhouse

    rustygardhouse rusty

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    I figured these pictures wouldn't help a lot.

    I'll give this a try again on the weekend. If I can't get the housing off, I'll try for a better pic of the inside. If I do get it off, I get a good pic of the engine vent hose going into a cast feature of the housing.

    Either way, I'll contribute to the general knowledge of the forum.

    Stay tuned!

    R
    #18
  19. DaveBall

    DaveBall Long timer

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    Disston, I stand corrected. I went back and looked at the pictures again. Yes, that pic appears to be from the top and the filter has fallen down.

    Still can't see why the shell will not come off. It looks like it is almost there. I am wondering if maybe it just needs a heavier hand. After removing the battery. The PC680 is a bit larger that the original Yuasa that came with the bike. There should not be any extra tubes to remove.
    #19
  20. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    I also have no idea what this tube is that is in the way. But I don't have an R65. Still it doesn't make sense that as far as he's got it now it still won't come completely off. Everybody has to be cautious, don't want to cause damage, but sometimes you gotta bang on these things.
    #20