How to Remove Right Perch and Heated Grips

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by CaptMako, Apr 21, 2014.

  1. CaptMako

    CaptMako Been here awhile

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    Jan 9, 2014
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    Location:
    New Smyrna Beach, FL
    Clymer not helpful on removing perch or heated grips. Anyone have a primer
    on removing the perch and the heated grips? Thanks in-advance for all input. :rofl
    #1
  2. Mugwest

    Mugwest .

    Joined:
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    Glad you found Old Skool, Mako. These folks are gonna want to know what model, year, etc.

    You will now benefit from a spectrum of advice :lol3

    Welcome to Old Skool :thumb
    #2
  3. CaptMako

    CaptMako Been here awhile

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    Yes sir, Mugwest. Should have added that my bike is a naked 1986 R80.
    I do appreciate the help Mugwest and happy to be Old Skool. Cheers.
    #3
  4. Pokie

    Pokie Just plain Pokie.

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    Heated grips are nice to ride with on a cold day but not so nice to have to take off.

    The wire for the grip runs down the inside of the grip and handle bar. you need to trace the wire and find where it plugs into the system. Each grip has two wires (inside a single loom) one for power and one for ground. When you find where the wires connect to the system, it will terminate with a plug (either white or black).

    Being very careful, you will have to remove the wire ends from that plug (usually using something like an ice pick or a really small screw driver). Once the wire ends have been freed from the plug, you can drag the loom back through the handle bar, slip the grip off and also the perch.

    To get the wire back through the handle bar, using an air hose and length of string, blow air into the handle bar while feeding in the string. Once the string comes out the hole in the handle bars, stop blowing, attach the wire to the string and pull it through.
    #4
  5. Beemerguru

    Beemerguru Beemerguru...G/S guy

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    The throttle grip will slide off but the left side has either 1 or 2 screws holding it in place. Roll back the grip far enough to take out the self threading screws..don't lose them.

    Perches can be romoved with the cable attached by loosening the 4 13mm nuts under the top triple plate and sliding the handlebar from side to side as you slide the perch off. You should be fine with high handle bars but if you have low bars, you may need to remove the clutch cable at the tranny to get enough room. Also cut all the tie wraps on the handle bar.

    PITA really...so why are you doing this? Changing bars or one of the grips not working?
    #5
  6. CaptMako

    CaptMako Been here awhile

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    Master Cylinder beyond rebuilding unfortunately. Consequently, bought new perch with new m/c installed. I have sorted out everything now except figuring out which heated grip wire is which. Got a tip to tie a thin wire to the heated grip wire to fish it back after new perch is on. Also the wire(s) I guess will have to be cut from the little plastic connection at the trailing end. Not sure how those wires terminate - appear to be the tiny
    studs that fit on the wire's bitter end and pop into the connector. Peeling back the grip so far reveals no self-threading screws. Bike is '86 R80 plain.
    I can agree this is a real tidious PITA. Any other hints would really be a boon. Thanks Beemerguru.
    #6
  7. CaptMako

    CaptMako Been here awhile

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    Pokie we cross posted. Ice pick sounds good vs. me cutting wires at the connection plug. Of course, now can't pry the connection plug apart.
    If I get through this I'll be one happy Airheader. Having poor eyesight doesn't help either.
    #7
  8. Mugwest

    Mugwest .

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    If these are true-blue BMW connectors, yes, they can be tough to separate. In a sense, they're doing their job :nod

    On some of these i need to soak in spray lube (WD, PB etc) a while and then attack gently with little jeweler screwdrivers. Get the locking tabs clear and use a little muscle and they eventually come apart
    #8
  9. CaptMako

    CaptMako Been here awhile

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    Mugwest - thank you. Got the connector apart as you described. Pulled the heated grip and see the P/O had somehow cut the outer grip on the bottom and I never noticed it before using the throttle. The same cut through the grip also cut the small guage wires on the heated grip. Crapola. Not sure if I will buy another one or just leave the right side disconnected. Don't need them in Central Florida - well, once in a blue moon I suppose.
    #9
  10. globalt38

    globalt38 Swimmin W/Waterwings

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    Since you've already got the grips off and if you're "feelin froggy" you can try repairing the cut(s?) alla this "helpful" video: :deal

    <IFRAME height=315 src="//www.youtube.com/embed/NBX2qWHfHHc" frameBorder=0 width=560 allowfullscreen></IFRAME>
    #10
  11. CaptMako

    CaptMako Been here awhile

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    Good video Globalt38. I found why my heated grips never worked. Both sides had the copper wires cut-up badly. I elected not to replace, but to remove. Put the new perch on the right bar and put everything back together. The doggone throttle cables was down right tricky. I think someone said 3 hands is the best way to do it. Well, got everything tucked back in and then saw the dreaded "wedge" sitting on the parts bin from my old perch. Soooooo, I took everything back off. Thennnnn I find the new perch does not require the "wedge"........WHAT.

    OK, I bite my lip and put everything back together. Add some new DOT 4
    and squeeze out the air. Everything seems good and I'll fire it up tomorrow and take it for a shake-down cruise. Thanks all for the help and tips.

    Safe riding to all.
    #11