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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Dakar83, May 4, 2012.
Answered that over in your own thread.
Just thought I'd update this old thread as I finally got around to replacing the Vapour Trailtech speedo with a set of gauges from SpeedHut
The Vapour was not working out well, speedo would register ok but jump erratically at frequent intervals registering 20-40% higher speed then returning to normal. The tacho over read , and the screen was hard to read in full sunlight. Preferring the clock style gauges anyway I opted for these from SpeedHut
Tach 2 1/16 inch
GPS speedo 3 3/8 inch
They were easier to fit than I had expected and worked great straight up. I am really pleased with the look, function and apparent quality too.
For night time display I selected the red numeral option, photo isn't the best but here it is
The brass bushes eventually ware out and need replacement as well.
The best solution is to fit a 16x14 mm precision steel tube straight through between the cover and the housing. The length if I remember correct should be 85.5 mm, but you can easily measure that yourself.
The tube is then installed after the drive is assembled and need to be removed before the cover can be removed for repairs.
This tube will assure that no oil will leak past worn O-rings anymore.
Install with bearing and seal retaining fluid from Loctite.
I might be producing the fairing in SA from fiber glass but the headlight is still a major headache as it is from the K100 and cost a whopping 350$ US.
There is already a mold for the fairing but the mounting frame still needs to be jigged and a solution to make it adaptable to many different triple clamps and not just for the HPN clamps.
These pegs are not simply to provide more space for your boot behind the carbs.
By moving the peg position back you are effectively moving your weight back to the rear wheel. This of coarse only when you are standing which is what you will do when riding soft sand or very technical terrain.
The trick to surviving in sand is to get the weight of the front wheel and keep it away from the front at all cost.
Ass right back over the rear of the bike, accelerate, and hang back on the handlebars.
That short 2 cm the peg moves back can make such a big difference to how much easier the bike handles in these kind of conditions.
Dropping the pegs makes the seated position much more comfy as well. The Airhead GS peg position is unnaturally high.
Here is an example of a successful lowering bracket;
Here I am using the HPN pegs which only lower about 13mm but keeps the peg at the same position as the original pegs;
The HPN foot pegs;
This short video will give you some idea of the craziness when riding soft sand. Those pegs from SWT will be much appreciated in these kind of conditions. All the action is in the last half of the video.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/EjVbXxgB-X0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
The rider making the video is on a HPN Paris Dakar model with 1043cc Mahle motor.
Mine is the Marlboro with red and white and the same motor and Paris Dakar HPN version.
HPN is king in soft sand. This particular stretch was so soft that with almost 70HP and short ratio final drives we still could not drive in 3rd gear. Our speed was around 60km/h
I think this set-back also helps because you are at the level of the rear mainframe, so your boots have something to clamp onto (like on a KTM exc). In stock position there is nothing but free air above the pegs which makes it harder to ride standing imho
When I talked to Speedhut they mentioned applying some sealant on the back where the wires exit. This would essentially waterproof the units.
Neat product and I have Wirewrkr to thank for finding them (miss that guy)
In modern off road motorcycle design the ideal is to get the foot peg position as close as possible in line with the swing-arm pivot point. Your picture perfectly illustrates that the SWT pegs do just that for the old GS frame.
I have never clamped the frames with my boots. I don't really see the point?!?!?and believe me I have done some crazy riding on these big bikes before.
find it helps for moving with the bike when loosing traction
I had to get a set of footpegs modified to make things comfortable for my last big trip.
I need a very relaxed hip/knee angle, but any lower pegs were only putting them further forward, which was hurting my lower back.
The location is almost perfect for me now, the only problem being, where the aftermarket sidestand is located makes it difficult to change gears with my off road boots on.
Do you have a pic of the other side? Did you have to modify the brake location?
I have these pegs but have not used yet.
You will probably have to adjust the height of the brake lever, an easy job.
had not noticed anything on the brake side, which i guess means that there was no issue
on the gear lever side, i noticed that gear changing while standing with MX boots was far easier due to the greater distance
but while with sitting with converse shoes you could no longer change up with you foot only while still on the pegs
I would wonder if sealing the back wire entry with Silicon would lead to condensation forming inside the units as they can't breathe?
Thanks Dustdevill I will definitely go this way should the leak start again.
Wow awesome riding Dustdevill!
I have had my HPM out in some soft sand and was very pleased with how it handled, but your vid is very impressive
Ras I also find that heel and calf pressed into frame helps stabilise the bike when riding in loose conditions standing, though as Dustdevill says in the real soft sand I put my weight right back over the rear wheel
Ray Peake had to re-make his dash after the (separate) rev counter gave up the ghost a few months ago.
Looks like Speedhut are the way to go for customised speedo's.
We had a devil of a time trying to get a decent shot without too much reflection.
GSD4ME that looks pretty good. I read somewhere that you were not happy with your Lynx cockpit, why was that?
I have one so far I like the headlights, the unit is strong and light with plenty of dash room. What I don't like is the raisable screen it doesn't give much protection in fact I find it better completely removing the clear screen. Also found the fasteners would come loose quickly, especially off road.
Been thinking about fashioning a new screen or spoiler for it as the airflow now hits me at helmet height in the face :-(
Part of the problem is I'm taller than most so it's harder to find a solution. May just end up leaving it off, it's not too bad that way.