Husky TR650 - New Owners Stupid Questions Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by HighFive, Dec 23, 2012.

  1. afordableperformance

    afordableperformance Adventurer

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    Big Dog is right as usual! I test rode a new 690R Saturday and although the powertrain is awesome, the turning radius is horrendous even with the stops fully adjusted and I felt like I was fighting the front end the entire time, it was very stiff maybe it gets better over time but I wasn't comfortable on it as it was. Could be an even more awesome bike if it could make a decent U-turn.
  2. TRZ Charlie

    TRZ Charlie That's MR. Asshole

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    Scott are you planning to do the filter mod?
  3. eca

    eca Adventurer

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    HF, you should stop drill that crack to stop it from spreading (self induced crack). Gives you a hole, but at least you can seal it!
  4. dedave

    dedave Derp

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    Great Idea!

    The hole don't matter much with the uni pod on it. I actually drilled a drain hole behind the AIT, in the airbox, just in case some water got in from the top. Don't need mosquitoes taking up homestead ya know eh?
  5. HighFive

    HighFive Never Tap-Out

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    Not the way you guys went.....no. I'm going to figure out a fix on the other end, at the original opening. I want it serviceable from the outside in a normal fashion. Don't want to be re-opening the Collector box multiple times....especially after seeing the cracks in those mount posts.

    HF :thumbup
  6. dedave

    dedave Derp

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    That's how I started, but once looking at the problem and future problems, the fix was more obvious to use Njoys method.

    Here is what I had planned.
    [​IMG]

    I was just going to get a plastic welder and put a flange on the inside of the box so the filter would seal proper. Do you see the channel right above the filter? That would need a seal, that is a big design flaw. The rubber seal that runs the perimeter is fairly dense, so any warpage over time will net a good leak, and plastic warps in the AZ sunshine.

    [​IMG]

    But once I got the box apart, this would have been an exercise in futility as the airbox has too many other issues, short and long term concerns. Pulling the panels is easier than removing the stock door as it is.

    The design, if you could do something similar to pictured, would be easy access, part of the idea. Then you could get some sort of gasket for the internal damn and run sealant around the perimeter seam of the airbox, and you could be good to go.

    If you want this brand new DNA filter, let me know. Cut ya a good deal on it, with the oil and cleaner.

    I keep thinking back to the Honda CB750's. Folks would put 4 small filters on them, and get rid of the airbox. Well, the airbox had a function of more than holding the filter, it also distributed fresh, cool air equally to each carb. With the four little air filters, in many cases the center two cylinders ran hotter. That is not an issue with the Terra or Strada.

    Putting the pod filter within the airbox vs removing the airbox and building a subframe for the plastic, is not functional, as the heat from the engine will recirculate back into the intake. Keeping the box, is pretty much a must do thing.

    Necessity is the mother of invention. :thumb
  7. huskyKT

    huskyKT Adventurer

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    Some good photos of my headlight without & with my LED lights. Avidmonster M60

    [​IMG]

    LOW BEAM no LED

    [​IMG]

    HIGH BEAM no LED

    [​IMG]

    LOW BEAM with LED adjusted to lowest output

    [​IMG]

    HIGH BEAM & FULL LED


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
  8. huskyKT

    huskyKT Adventurer

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    Alt Ridercrash bars after catching a sapling.

    [​IMG]


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  9. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

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    I've had my ADVMonster model 60's on for almost a year now. No major problems, but do not leave them on unless the bike is moving, as they get hot internally and will start flickering.

    High Five, any ideas on how those cracks formed? Could it have been from you trying to remove the airbox?
  10. TRZ Charlie

    TRZ Charlie That's MR. Asshole

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    I didn't have any of those studs cracked like that on my bike RE. I did break one that I had to epoxy back on but that was my fault. Odd, almost looks like a compression break from weight above. Maybe his bike was built the day the Italians found out their factory was closing?
  11. HighFive

    HighFive Never Tap-Out

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    Negative. There was no stress induced to the box whatsoever during lid removal. Everything was removed from bike, as seen, before I removed the top half of the clam shell. All I did was unscrew the bolts around the perimeter, then lift it off. The halves separated very easily......unobstructed as it was.

    The cracks appear caused by the initial installation of the anchor screws.....as if the hole ID was drilled too small. The cracks on two of the posts started down the mold seam then veered off in the direction of tightening torque. The third post is spilt in the material away from a seam. All other mounting posts appear to be in proper working order.

    I imagine my 1,000 ton epoxy will hold it together well enough.....until the vibration starts. :lol3

    Sucks, don't it? I bet a whole bunch of air boxes have some cracked posts in them. Just a hunch.

    I've been incubating ideas a long time. Got some new ideas for making a fix. Could have done without the 3P problem (Piss Poor Posts). But onward.....always onward!

    DeDave is right about the need for the box remaining as a heat shield, primarily. Though to what affect it has, I'm not certain. The AIT is sitting inside the box directly above the engine heat. No or slow movement will heat up the air inside the box quickly.....causing the ECU to lean the mixture when you're sitting at a stop light, for example. Thus, the dreaded engine stumble on take-off. As the air inlet temp reading begins climbing, the fuel mixture is leaned at the injector.

    That's why we are using the temperature spoofers to fix the problem. Everyone typically thinks in terms of ambient conditions. But what's really going on, for the engine's sake, is happening inside the airbox at the AIT sensor. I've thought of relocating the sensor, but it would still need fresh air....protected from the elements. Just rambling, for those that might not have fully understood what all the hub-bub is about.

    I'd have to look back at the photos again, but you guys with the NJoy mod, might want to make sure "fresh air" is able to reach the AIT very easily. You don't want the foam filter sock blocking the air flow to the sensor after the clamshell is re-fastened. It would be better to place the AIT in front of the filter sock, in that case; rather than behind it.....trapped in the back-end where the temps might rise. Arizona is a good field test, as it would simulate summer conditions more easily.....sooner. Comes down to whether or not the "Spoofer" has enough "delta" built into it for the heat range that might be encountered inside the modified box condition.

    More brainstorming......if your AIT is trapped behind the filter sock, you could punch a drain hole in the back corner (like some have done) and install a small elbow fitting thru the hole....pointing forward to drive some fresh air into that area as you ride along. Might help, if you begin having some hot-air induced stumbling again. Something to think about and monitor as time goes by.

    HF :thumbup
  12. TRZ Charlie

    TRZ Charlie That's MR. Asshole

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    Great thoughts H5, I kinda had that epiphany when I did my mod but the "screw it factor" kicked in and I put the AIT back where it was easier.

    These are the only two places I can think of that the AIT would fit (inside the air box). Both would require lengthening the harness wires.

    [​IMG]

    This location would require hanging it upside down but that might aid in water not corroding things but the plug modules won't fit under the faux tank cover.

    [​IMG]
  13. hansi

    hansi Teurer Abenteurer

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    :eek1 Looks like that Crashbar saved your leg from that sapling!
  14. run-it

    run-it Adventurer

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    I'd imagine with the bike moving there will be some pressure & turbulence inside the box to mix up the air. But you can test to verify by using a two probe digital thermometer, put one sensor/thermocouple at your AIT & one at a location you think you might relocate the AIT to so you can compare before doing any cutting. The Dirty River store has a Chicom unit for $21.:1drink

    http://www.amazon.com/Signstek-6802...sr=8-4&keywords=dual+probe+temperature+sensor
  15. dedave

    dedave Derp

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    I seriously doubt it will change the internal temp of the airbox. With the AIT so close to the element, it will get a flow of clean air, maybe even better than stock.

    On my first run with the eruption and airbox pod mod, I actually was getting the snowflake at nearly 80º.
  16. run-it

    run-it Adventurer

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    As long as the AIT is exposed to the same temperature of air that's going into the engine, they're good - whether it's hot air as it will be after restarting the engine from a short riding break or maybe slow forward progress with a tail-wind to snowy cold air.

    Dead air inside the airbox? I can only guess & my guess it's possible under certain circumstances but not enough of an issue to do anything about but that's just a guess. :1drink
  17. High Side

    High Side Squidventurer

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    Hey there TR650 community. There is currently a thread on advrider : http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=962967

    of two guys producing aftermarket items for the Suzuki DR350 (that I also own). They started with an air box, then to a rear rack, and are now designing pannier racks, peg lowering kits, frame protectors . . . etc. The quality of their products looks really good.

    I mentioned on their thread that there maybe interest for these same items to be produced for our TR's. They responded that they may need a bike to use for measurements.

    That takes me back to here. I believe they are located around Newnan, Georgia. Not sure if any of you are close to there but this might be a great opportunity. Especially if these guys could design an effective air box ???

    Check out their site and see what you think. Also, for the record I have no part in these guys business other than I am buying some of their product for my DR350 and would buy the same for the TR650 if it was available.

    Cheers
  18. run-it

    run-it Adventurer

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    Look'in forward to see what HF comes up with on the airbox mod!:ear:freaky
  19. Chieflonghair

    Chieflonghair Steve

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    Hey HF, I left the lower half in place by cutting the top half of the rubber off leaving plenty of room to clamp the silicone 90 and also not needing to cut out for the throttle linkage,, the lower half of the rubber looks like it will support the lower half of the air box fine... working for me so far ,, also I had dirt in the chamber with only 500 miles on the bike,, poor design from the get go,, I think the new uni 2 stage is going to work great and it seems to up the torque and sounds pretty cool.... or maybe it just "sounds" like it has more torque,, but it works for me..
  20. HighFive

    HighFive Never Tap-Out

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    Between Rugged Exposure an BigDog's prior postings on their valve check, you should have a decent idea of what is involved, more or less. So, I'm not doing a play-by-play. The process is really no different than most any four stroke thumper, if you are wondering.

    BUT I will cover bits and tricks along the way….that might help some of you brave souls that decide to get your hands dirty. I figure, if I can sleep amongst killer wolves & grizzlies next to my Terra in the Tetons, then you ought to be able to probe around in your garage with a screwdriver and torx wrench. Just saying.

    So now, after stripping the TR650 darn near to its butt naked frame (ex motor), I'm finally ready to remove the valve cover. Fairly simple to reach the bolts except for this one:

    [​IMG]

    Figures….so get the throttle body out of your way. It needs to move anyway to get the cover out the rear exit.

    [​IMG]

    At least all the valve cover bolts are the same size and length:

    [​IMG]

    Next up…..a moment I've been waiting for since I bought my Terra 1.5 years ago. A reverent moment of silence, please:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Didn't have anything else in my toolbox capable of fitting/reaching the plug. Its a long tall tiny thingy. Maybe 14mm hex, from the looks of it. Who's got a 14mm super thin-wall, deep socket what's over 10 inches long?

    So, I was stuck using this glorious OEM sparkplug wrench with nothing worthy to poke thru the narrow hole which was long enough for leverage. Those plugs weren't budging….nothing doing. Felt like they were sealed on with red Loc-tite & 40 NM of torque.

    Finally broke it loose and nearly broke my knuckle in the process when it slammed into something….slicing a thick layer of skin right off my finger. Got blood all over my red valve cover. Its my destiny. :baby

    But the plugs look good:

    [​IMG]

    Itty bitty plugs. NGK MAR9A-6J

    The valve cover is set tight and needs some motivation to release it. So, tap on it around the sides with a soft hammer like this:

    [​IMG]

    You will feel and hear it break loose….take your time, don't get to rough with it. Then, you can lift it off easily. However, getting it out of this frame is quite the challenge. I took it out the rear over the throttle body intake, but that was still a really tight fit. What a PITA!

    [​IMG]

    Gonna be the pits putting it back in there. Maybe I didn't hold my mouth right, or say the magic words. Yes, I moved the throttle body out of my way while extracting the cover. Its just a tight squeeze between the frame rails and wire harness. Maybe I should have tilted it or twisted it. I'll investigate further upon re-entry. At least, its real clean inside:

    [​IMG]

    Quite the parts pile building up on the floor here:

    [​IMG]

    You wouldn't believe how many things are stacked up in that little brown box. Dear Lord, will I ever get this all put back together…?? [​IMG]

    HF :lurk