Husky TR650 - New Owners Stupid Questions Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by HighFive, Dec 23, 2012.

  1. krussell

    krussell Long timer

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    It's the ABS sensor mount on the high performance model! In the US, for 2013 at least, only the Strada has ABS. In some other countries there is a Terra version available with ABS.

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    #21
  2. Harder1

    Harder1 braaaap!

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    #22
  3. davorallyfan

    davorallyfan Commonist

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    Aussie tool kit! I did get a curious USB stick with the same crapy manual on it.

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    Some oil change tips would be good - the air filter info was useful - thanks

    Also I am going to fabricate some pannier mounts for USA motosports bags - soft ones. I have the loops. Looking at spacers to lift the rear rack and uliise these as mount points as well as the point available on the pillion peg brackets.

    I haven't got around to stripping off all the plastics yet just the two red bits - I'd be keen to see any pix of the rear subframe :ear

    Havent done any major dirt roads yet - bit worried about smashing the cases (no bash plate).

    Really enjoying this bike,

    Dave
    #23
  4. Deans BMW

    Deans BMW Granpa Hoon

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    HF, what tail pack is that on your Terra?

    BTW, my USB Stick is also F** up.
    #24
  5. BigDogAdventures

    BigDogAdventures Fart Letter

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    Deans ----that bag on HF's bike is a Wolfman Peak------nice little day ride bag---I've been using that bag for years ---it's expandable too-----------shown un-expanded in HF's picture. Use it on my WR250R also.

    For X-mas my wife got me this Wolfman "Wolftail" bag-------it's expandable also and has 3 outside pockets and can be purchased with an optional rainfly. These bags are amazingly water resistant without the fly.

    It's much bigger than the peak bag and is nice if you need more room. I will use this bag on my KLR, 950 and WR250R also.

    [​IMG]

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    #25
  6. Deans BMW

    Deans BMW Granpa Hoon

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    Thanks Mark.
    #26
  7. Blaise W

    Blaise W Been here awhile

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    OK, I have a dumb question! I pulled off the left bar weight to reconoiter what has to happen for crash guards and found a metal plug in the end of the bars. How do you remove this? I didn't get too crazy with my pliers, but I did try to rotate it. No go. So, how does it come out? Yeah, dumb, but there it is.

    I think I'm going to try HDB guards and hope that I can get the ignition key in and out. A little bar riser will help there.
    #27
  8. BigDogAdventures

    BigDogAdventures Fart Letter

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    That threaded insert is welded in------I just cut about 1/4" of the bars off and it just fell off then----it's just welded at the very end. I used an air driven cut-off wheel to do it. But a sawzall or even a hack saw would be just fine. The handlebars are just thin steel.

    BigDog
    #28
  9. Blaise W

    Blaise W Been here awhile

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    Ahhhh, the man with the answer! I don't feel so dumb now, and I'm glad I didn't expend much more energy trying to pull those things out. Between the end weights and the plug there is a good bit of weight out on the ends of the bars. Mark, did you notice any more bar vibration with the protectors on and the end weight removed?
    #29
  10. BigDogAdventures

    BigDogAdventures Fart Letter

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    Absolutely none blaisew

    Mark
    #30
  11. wagonpilot

    wagonpilot Freeeeze

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    Instead of cutting them off, I threaded them and used them to install the handguards. I was not sure how far in they were welded and I am too lazy to hacksaw each end more than once!
    #31
  12. Blaise W

    Blaise W Been here awhile

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    Brilliant! 'Wish I'd thought of that!
    #32
  13. HighFive

    HighFive Never Tap-Out

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    Got about 500 miles on my Terra now, and its time for my first oil change. But, how do I change the oil? [​IMG]

    Admittedly, this took a good bit of pondering. [​IMG] This bike is rather unique in this department.

    I soon realized that I needed to engineer and fabricate a super duper custom tool to make the process much easier. It only costs $500.99

    That would be $0.99 in material and $500 for my stunning cunning. Yeah, I know…..I'm a lot cheaper than BigDog. Let's just say he's more seasoned. :gerg


    The official: TR650-HF-HangerGizmo

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    And its faithful sidekick; TR650-HF-Dingleballs

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    Key up some music…..please.

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    As usual, run the bike a fair bit to warm up the oil before changing. Let it sit a few minutes before draining.

    Step 1: Drain the oil from the frame reservoir.

    Surprisingly, this bolt is a Hex (Allen) head and not a Torx. And it was very tight.

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    I could not break it loose, as shown. I had to recruit a helper.

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    I broke it loose, then used a long Hex Wrench to remove it.

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    Bombs away...

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    The little drain bolt has a crush washer and the Service Manual says Torque Requirement = 24 Nm

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    I had substantial difficulty trying to re-tighten to that torque level. Its very hard to hold the flexible hose firmly while tightening the bolt.

    So, I pulled out my all-time favorite secret weapon for oil drain plugs:

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    Go to the Yamaha shop and buy a tube of Yamabond 4. Great stuff, Maynard! :deal

    Some of the best gook every created. Its oil resistant and only semi-drying. I've covered all my oil drain plug threads with this wonderful stuff for years…never had a leak….never lost a drain plug…..never stripped threads due to over-tightening. Many of my friends have endured all of the above without it.

    Funny story: my brother was once a mechanic at a Kawasaki shop. They used Yamabond 4 on every oil drain plug.
    Its how I learned about it. Consider it good insurance.

    If I had a new crush washer, I would have used it. That is always a good idea….spares are very cheap to purchase (pennies). Add it to My List.

    Step 2: Drain the engine oil….here is the plug under the engine. Its the biggest nut of the bunch.

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    No need to remove the bolt in front of it which is connected to the oil piping. Recommend you do not break the seal on that banjo bolt (until necessary).

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    The engine oil drain plug is a 24mm socket size

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    I was glad to see it has a magnetic tip…..Husky (er uh BMW) didn't skimp on everything.

    Clean this magnetic tip off real good. Remove all the metal shavings, as well as any nuts, washers, chunks of metal gears or piston rings....whatever may be clinging to it.

    Replace the crush washer with a new one, if you have one. I don't (yet). I will have some on hand next time around. But, of course, I covered the threads with the amazing Yamabond 4 gook.

    I was unsure how much Torque to apply to this bolt…..I cannot find its value listed in the Service Manual. If someone knows, or is less blind than me, please advise. Its a big bolt, so I just used about 26 Nm (20 ft-lbs) in the interim. Just snugged it up firmly without overdoing it...then applied the torque mentioned.

    Step 3: Replace the oil filter. Remove the plastic cover over the drive sprocket. I used my spiffy-nifty, brand spanking new T-handle Torx…..a most timely Christmas gift from my wife (God bless Sweet Thang!); otherwise, I would have used my little red electric Pistolera. Note: a Stupid Dog like me needs color coordinated wrenches to match each bike....so I can easily remember which tools to use.

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    Notice there is a ground wire connected to the bottom bolt. Keep track of this for re-installation.

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    Guessing its related to the rear brake switch….I didn't take the time to trace it down, at this point.

    Oil filter housing is right here:

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    Its a messy job, being located above the side case and drive shaft assembly. I had to gently wedge a flat screwdriver between the housing and side case to pop the seal on the cover where I could remove it. Take your time….tap on it with a soft hammer gingerly and it will free up.

    I was glad to see a nice big filter…..more insurance for long road trips.

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    Not too much metal from break-in is evident, but maybe that is due to the large filter size. My oil was reasonably clean for a break-in, or so I thought.

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    The new filter is Husky part # 7700180 (probably available at a BMW shop with a cross-reference). I imagine its same one used in G650GS and/or Sertao, but not positively certain at the time of this writing.

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    Do make sure you install this big open end into the housing first….its a tight mating with the interior flange.

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    Seems obvious, I know, but I've learned nothing is foolproof, because fools are so ingenious. No disrespect intended. Remember, this is the "New Owners - Stupid Questions Thread". A place where Stupid runs free & wild!

    Recommend that you remove this O-ring from the housing, clean it carefully, and install onto the cover before reassembly.

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    That way, it doesn't get pushed off the edge or pinched when the cover is bolted back on. It could be a little tricky otherwise, and you wouldn't know until you found the leak….and discover the O-ring is ruined. And yeah, I whipped out the Pistolera for good measure. Don't worry, she wasn't watching…the garage was too cold today for Sweet Thang to hang-out.

    Step 4: The most contentious part…..which oil?

    I prefer whatever is "On Sale" in the JASO rating (that's the important part….JASO). Atwoods Farm & Ranch was recently running a clearance on this:

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    So of course, I loaded up. Good stuff. I never buy overpriced oil from a motorcycle shop. Auto Parts, Farm & Ranch, even Wally World are happy hunting grounds for me.

    Once upon a time, a long time ago (but not so very long), I was the plant engineer at the lubricants complex for a major refinery. But maybe it was just a spooky dream…I'm less sure each passing year.

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    First time I've ever "stood up" to pour the oil into the engine. Hey, it was nice. I like it. But watch out for the plastic threaded dipstick cap. Mine is not easy to align the threads. Mine seems to get cross-threaded rather easily, but maybe its just me. I wish this cap were made of metal, instead of plastic.

    The Service Manual calls for 10w-50 oil with a capacity of 2.0L (0.528 U.S. Gallons….0.44 Imp. Gall.) I believe that would mean 2,000 cc total.

    I'm pretty sure I had to put in more than that to register on the dipstick. My brother was here visiting…helping take some photos. He's a soldier about to deploy to Afghanistan. So, I was a bit distracted by our conversation. I'm not absolutely certain how much I put in there. I think 2,000cc didn't even register on the dipstick. I'll have to measure it more carefully next time around. I'm assuming the dipstick measurement is trustworthy. Never had a dipstick on a bike for years. Its spoiled me already. You should be MORE CAREFUL than me. I'm pretty stupid.

    The Manual says to add 1.5 liters (1,500 cc by my interpolation), then start the motor and let it run for about a minute. Add another 0.5 L (500 cc) and measure with the dipstick…adding oil until is between the Min - Max marks. The oil is to be measured with the bike level and the dip stick flush on top of the threads (not screwed down).

    Keep in mind that oil expands when it gets hot. So, I recommend you stop adding oil when it first appears on the dipstick, then bring the engine up to normal operating temperature before topping off.

    Voila….done! Happy wrenching to all. :freaky

    HF :thumbup

    *******UPDATE******* 1-4-13

    Correct oil amount is approximately 2,000 cc (2.0 Liter) per manual. It may not show on the dipstick initially (when cold). Bring the motor up to normal operating temperature before measuring level to determine whether or not any additional oil is needed to "top off". I explain more detail in another post further down (a few pages from here).
    #33
    rsser likes this.
  14. Harder1

    Harder1 braaaap!

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    Great post HF. Thanks for taking the time to write it up. I'll be doing the same drill this weekend after a few more miles.
    #34
  15. krussell

    krussell Long timer

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    Nice write up HF.

    Disclaimer: Use the following information at your own risk, it should be right, but you never know.

    The drain plug torque is 40nm. It's not in the massive torque table at the end, it's in the engine torque picture show, page F4.12. Lower left hand corner. To sanity check, I cross checked the F650 oil change for dummies page, it says 40nm too. http://faq.f650.com/GSFAQs/GS_Oil_Change_FAQ.htm

    The filter cover bolts are 10nm.

    The oil level check is the most complicated I've ever seen. The thing needs a sight glass! By the book instructions are:

    1) start bike and run until cooling fan starts, then 3 minutes more, then stop bike.
    2) remove dipstick, clean
    2a) Bike should be level, as in vertical, not on side stand, and level front to back
    3) place dispstick in hole, do not screw in
    4) check for level between min and max

    There is, according the the manual, a .25liter difference between min and max.

    I found about an 8 oz difference between on the side stand vs. vertical. (on my strada, with the preload up from stock, it leans more than your Terra appears to.)
    #35
  16. modeselector

    modeselector Common as muck

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    Good write up HighFive~put a patent on that coat hangar/funnel doohicky.
    #36
  17. davorallyfan

    davorallyfan Commonist

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    Thanks Hi5 - top post.

    Good point re the filler cap you really need to be carefull you don't cross thread it - it needs to be positioned right to pick up the thread.

    The whole operation is a bit finicky - but doable.
    #37
  18. BigDogAdventures

    BigDogAdventures Fart Letter

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    That plug is the same finicky plug I remember on my TE610-------always felt like it was going in crooked--and you had to work at it to get it straight----but always got it done without stripping it.

    I remember a buddy was helping me change the oil on my TE one night and he had trouble and said he wanted me to do it as he thought it was just going in crooked------same old plug I guess. Just don't force it ever.

    BigDog
    #38
  19. KilgoreTrout

    KilgoreTrout adventure flyfisher

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    Boy that was simple:rofl would be very convenient on a road trip:lol3
    #39
  20. Blaise W

    Blaise W Been here awhile

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    Sounds like one of our vendors should make up an aluminum oil cap with o-ring and dip stick.
    #40