Husky TR650 - New Owners Stupid Questions Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by HighFive, Dec 23, 2012.

  1. Chuffa

    Chuffa TR650 Terra

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    I was the same but after 2500km on the MT21 the wobble has gone and it feels pretty good. It's even improved on the gravel. I'm quite happy with it now.

    That being said, I will still be trying something different next time.
  2. RidingDonkeys

    RidingDonkeys Purveyor of Awesome

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    Somewhat OT, but I'm tire shopping for the fleet right now. I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row so all my parts are waiting on me when I get back from Asscrackistan next month.

    I'm tracking the stock rear tire size on the Strada to be 140/80/17, is that correct? What make/model of tire is stock?

    I don't recall what came stock on my bike since ordered spokies and K60's to Terra-fy it. However, I suspect I can repurpose the stock tire on my Bonneville hack instead of letting it dry-rot in my garage.
  3. RidingDonkeys

    RidingDonkeys Purveyor of Awesome

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    Dangit, I just realized my own stupidity. The Strada tire is tubeless and the Bonnie needs tubes. :doh
  4. Ogre_fl

    Ogre_fl Long timer

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    You are considering taking the old/stock Strada tire and putting it on the Bonnie, right?

    There are no issues running a tube in a tubeless tire, go for it.

    I would bet the stock tire on the bonnie is proably a "tubeless" tire
  5. big-t

    big-t Been here awhile

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    I have used a number of these and find after you wear a bit off the knobs,they settle down and work very well.
  6. RidingDonkeys

    RidingDonkeys Purveyor of Awesome

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    Yep. Stocker is a Metzeler ME880 on a T100 with spoked wheels. Great tire, but not for hack duty. I want something with a flatter profile, but if I have the Strada tire sitting around, I might as well use it.

    I've never had a bike with cast wheels, so I've never even messed with a tubeless tire before. I just figured since they always sold them as tubed or tubeless, that they weren't interchangeable.
  7. dirtykdx

    dirtykdx Adventurer

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    Yep, it'll work just fine. Supermotos are a prime example, I've yet to see a 150 slick labeled for tubes. Also, Dunlop 803s are tubeless trials tires that are used all the time with tubes on dirt bikes. Tubeless are just a bitch to install/remove as they're much tighter on the bead of the rim.
  8. big-t

    big-t Been here awhile

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    Very interesting and the timing is perfect as this fatass (235 lbs + gear) is on a search for heavier fork springs.Having put close to 2k,mostly on rough rocky mountain roads and rougher stuff,the forks are bottoming very easily and the rider sag is 40% or more of the total travel.I have added some oil to them and it helped quite a bit,but not enough.

    Changing the oil weight also had me worried as the rebound felt OK and was not interested in screwing it with the heavier oil ,but with this new info,it looks more promising.

    Please feel free to post your project,off road or on,I'm sure it will benefit most of us
  9. RidingDonkeys

    RidingDonkeys Purveyor of Awesome

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    Awesome. Thanks. End hijack.
  10. Chazbo

    Chazbo Been here awhile

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    Hey, I finally got the courage to ask a question that qualifies for the New Owners Stupid Questions Thread. Actually it is two related stupid questions.
    1. Is different left/right front shock properties common, or did a common part get installed upside-down?

    2. Could this asymmetric characteristic be contributing the the dynamic wobble some are reporting?

    Do I get bonus dummy points for not being able to count since there are actually three questions hidden in there? Oops, now four questions.
  11. njoytheride

    njoytheride NJOYN' THE JOURNEY

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    Highfive, you going to SLAP ? would like for you to look at the suspension and see what you think. I can bottom my bike out fairly easy. Must say the issue of the bike cutting out from idle has been much better sense I cobbed the heck out of the throttle.
    May try and hit Mena area at the end of the month if everything works out. Maybe I'll see you down there.
    Ah, for the stupid question. Who has found a good bar riser for the stock handel bars ?
    I have enough questions in there that a least one or two should qualify.
  12. Blakebird

    Blakebird r-u-n-n-o-f-t

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    It's very common, and not responsible for any ill effects whatsoever.
  13. DirtJack

    DirtJack Adventurer

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    This is a good point big-t. Assuming the forks are open cartridge, this type of fork has two springs (coiled metal and air). Changing the oil height changes the size (volume) of the air spring. Raising the oil height decreases the size of the air spring and should improve bottoming resistance. You could try raising the oil height a bit more. increasing the size of the air spring lowers the air spring rate, softening the fork action. Most fork specs give the usable range of oil heights. Inexpensive tools are available to measure the oil height (fork cap off, spring removed) and usually have a syringe to add or remove oil. Motion Pro makes a nice one.
  14. HighFive

    HighFive Never Tap-Out

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    Chazbo - that's a great question many people have when they first discover it. The split function design (Rebound on one side, & Compression on the other) has actually been around for 20 years or more. I believe the first time I saw it was on a 1990 Fantic trials bike, which was my first bike with upside down forks. I loved it instantly! And never wanted anything else since. So much more tunable....independently....than the old combo style. It was as big a leap forward, as the creation of monoshock for the rear end in the 1970's. The whole Cartridge design really transformed fork suspension for the better.

    NJoy - affirmative. Hear there's great single-track at Byrd's place. I gotta get me some of that action!

    Dirtjack - great explanation. I'll add, removing the spring on a Cartridge fork can be tricky for someone unfamiliar....especially without a special compressor tool. But it is required to correctly measure oil height in the fully compressed position.

    I've gotten by with a shortcut of sorts, at times when I didn't care precisely what the exact oil height was. I elevate the bike on a stand to let the forks fully extend. remove the fork cap and measure distance to the oil height with a makeshift devise (piece of straight wire, welding rod, pencil....something that can fit in safely to reach the oil level and easily be retracted). I do that only for a reference point, as I want to know how much oil height I have gained.

    Then, I will add 5cc of oil, screw the cap on and go for a test ride (which usually involves bumps and jumps). Repeat.....Repeat.....until satisfied. This of course assumes I have some concept of the starting point (being near a recommended target level). It often takes only just a little bit to correct a problem. That compressible "air space" up top can close in fast....changing the feel quickly when you reach that zone.

    Sometimes the factory sets it right, sometimes they don't. So, I never add more than 20cc total this way. If I get that far without making a difference, it's time to drop it, drain it, & reset it correctly from scratch. Everybody is different. Every bike is different. What works for me, won't necessarily work for another.

    HF :thumbup
  15. DirtJack

    DirtJack Adventurer

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    You can make a fork oil measuring tool out of a medical syringe
    and a piece of thin plastic tubing. Just measure and mark the outside of the tubing starting from the end. Hold the tube in the fork tube at the desired height (after adding a little more oil than needed), then use the syringe to suck out the excess oil.
  16. spidermann

    spidermann nutcase

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    I'm mounting some LED lights and want to hook up the relay to the high beam. Has anyone done this and where did you find the wire? What is the color code for this wire? Wish I had a wiring diagram. I thought this was worthy of the stupid questions thread. Thanks.
  17. Precis

    Precis Maladroit malcontent

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    Single rear shocks are a lot older than you think - as Yamaha found out when they had a big "World's first...." banner up at some bike show and an old guy with a grey beard and a flat cap quietly wheeled in a 1949 Vincent...
    Ditto split-function forks: my Ducati Laguna Seca had this feature in the mid-1980s and I doubt it was the first.
    And while Cartridges CAN be good, sometimes they're not: the cartridges in early Guzzis were bloody awful! Lucky the after-market came to rescue; but generally, yes, motorcycle suspension design is an area where clever minds have worked hard o give us incredibly sophisticated instruments operating in very challenging environments for extended periods, usually with little or no maintenance - and all at very affordable prices.
  18. HighFive

    HighFive Never Tap-Out

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    Figures.....learn something new every day.

    I only witnessed the transformation as it happened in motocross bikes. I'll never forget how great it was on the Yamaha YZs when nobody else had it. That beautiful long shock under the seat and tank was a piece of art. And my Dad wasn't buying it! He thought the Carabelas were the future.....what a miserable year that was for me.

    HF :lol3
  19. HighFive

    HighFive Never Tap-Out

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    Spiderman, I think you'll find it in BigDog's website: http://bigdogadventures.com/
    at his Husky Terra Build-up section. Seems to me he tapped something into the hi-beam wire, if I recall correctly.

    HF :thumbup
  20. spidermann

    spidermann nutcase

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    Thanks HF. Yes, Bigdog got in touch with me.