Husky TR650 - New Owners Stupid Questions Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by HighFive, Dec 23, 2012.

  1. Northern TerraTory

    Northern TerraTory Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2013
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    Darwin,Northern Territory-The Top End of Australia
    Well that's interesting, sure goes against some theories that it is just resistors in series with the thermometer. Not sure what could be in there that would change the properties depending if your bike was set to celcius or Fahrenheit and still have the same numerical values? But I'm certainly no electronics expert!
  2. Chuffa

    Chuffa TR650 Terra

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2012
    Oddometer:
    178
    Location:
    Perth, West Australia
    Sounds odd, but you can always change the default temp to F instead of C without changing the other display settings. Easy thing to check & who looks at the temp display anyway? :D
  3. njoytheride

    njoytheride NJOYN' THE JOURNEY

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,048
    Location:
    WESTERN AR
    Another fine write up Mr. Highfive. Been looking at a few options on seat modifcations, looks like that would do what needed done.
    Glad to see some Aussie's . Tag name is Terra -rific.. When i catch some serious air I feel like a ......wait for it ..
    p-Terra-dactyl .........oh ya..
    Anyway, put the Wuka kit on and am quite pleased with the results. Still need to experiment some duing different seasons and elevations but much improved performance.
  4. RidingDonkeys

    RidingDonkeys Purveyor of Awesome

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2009
    Oddometer:
    10,910
    Location:
    Moscow, Russia
    I did a thread on this over at CH, but figured it was appropriate here too since many ADVers don't frequent CH.

    So you want a Terra and can't find one. Or, you want a Terra with ABS, and it isn't sold in the US. Or, you've found a Strada cheaper than a Terra, and now you are confused. Either way, there is a solution. There has been a lot of talk about this for a while, so I figured it deserved a dedicated thread. This is the how-to on creating your own Terra-fied Strada.

    You start with this, a stock Strada. First, you remove the decals, because they suck.

    [​IMG]


    The Terra and the Strada are the same bike underneath. Outside of the ABS, everything else is bolt on. So you'll need to order a series of parts. I will update this list with part numbers once I get it all sorted out. A few of the part numbers we used were incorrect, and had to be rectified. I don't want anyone else to make the same mistake. Even when I get them up, please verify them before ordering.

    21" Spoke Wheel Assembly
    21" Front Tube and Tire

    17"/18" Spoke Wheel Assembly (Both are available. I went 17" for tire selection)
    17"/18" Rear tube and tire

    High front fender

    Fork guard assemblies

    And that is all you really need. This is assuming you'll be recycling your brake discs onto the new spoke wheels. If you want a true convertible bike, you'll need to order a spare set of discs and ABS sensor rings. However, bolting the discs up only takes a few minutes, and most people aren't likely switch wheels frequently, if ever at all.

    You could skip the fork guard assemblies, but they hold the cables in place, as seen below. Zip ties work too, but the guards are only $7. This was an oversight, and my guards are now on order. I'm currently using the zip tie method. This is what right looks like, on a Terra.

    [​IMG]

    When it is all said and done, you'll end up with something like this.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Now you'll probably want to add some accessories. The Strada is compatible with almost everything that you can get for the Terra. In the photos, I have SW-Motech crash bars and skid plate attached with no issues. There is one notable exception to compatibility: handguards. I prefer Barkbusters. They are strong and aerodynamically stable at speed. However, the ABS system gets in the way of a Barkbuster install. It fits, but barely, and in the event of a crash, the mount could take out your brakes if it flexed. My work around was a mount from Moose Racing that is designed to go under cable assemblies.

    This is the part number:
    [​IMG]

    And here it is mounted.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    So that is a Terra-fied Strada in a nutshell. Once again, I'll add exact part numbers once I verify them all.
  5. snailrider

    snailrider Prostpector

    Joined:
    May 1, 2009
    Oddometer:
    143
    Location:
    Tuckson Arizona,
    You still need to paint it red :lol3
  6. trapperj

    trapperj Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2011
    Oddometer:
    537
    Location:
    Knoxville, TN
    Your bike looks great! I too gave a lot of thought of doing the same to my Strada...still may. But have also considered just adding Tkc 80s to the cast wheels and being done. Whatever you do ...leave it black! Best thing about it IMHO.
  7. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,301
    Location:
    NM desert wasteland
    I've been having to commute a little more often than usual the past month and the miles are racking up on the Terra. 6k will be here within the next few weeks.

    Has anyone checked the valve clearance themselves yet? I don't wanna be the first dumbass to do it, but I will if I have to.

    Any write ups on this? And were the valves still in-spec? I've heard this Rotax will keep the valves good close to 20k miles.
  8. davorallyfan

    davorallyfan Commonist

    Joined:
    May 2, 2005
    Oddometer:
    17,448
    Location:
    Capitalist
    Thanks Nev one more thing

    So the red side of the switch (red sticker) is for warm weather and the black for cold weather?:ear
  9. davorallyfan

    davorallyfan Commonist

    Joined:
    May 2, 2005
    Oddometer:
    17,448
    Location:
    Capitalist

    Mine was a 2 1/2 hour job done by the mechanic. He checked them -they needed no adjustment. He said it was really fiddly. He did it without dropping the motor but said he might drop it next time he does one.
  10. Deans BMW

    Deans BMW Granpa Hoon

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2004
    Oddometer:
    4,539
    Location:
    Copperhill, Tennessee
    What was the mileage on you bike when the valves were checked?
  11. davorallyfan

    davorallyfan Commonist

    Joined:
    May 2, 2005
    Oddometer:
    17,448
    Location:
    Capitalist

    10,000km
  12. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,301
    Location:
    NM desert wasteland
    I'm at about 5,500mi now, so by 5 more days of commuting I should be close to 6k.

    Crap.

    I was hoping to drag it out to Sept/Oct when I'll have a week or two off when my kid gets here. Yes I know, I look like some sort of monster planning bike maintenance during time that should be spent with family. I'll move the crib/carrier/stroller thing out to the shop and she can spend some time with dad while he figures out how to take the top of the Rotax apart.

    But seriously, no one else has had their valves done yet? There has to be a few more. How long did the shops rate the job for hour wise?
  13. trapperj

    trapperj Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2011
    Oddometer:
    537
    Location:
    Knoxville, TN
    I too have between 5500 and 6000 miles. I will ask Eurosport Asheville for a quote. They have sold a bunch of TRs...you'd think someone has had it done by now.
  14. jwdub

    jwdub Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2005
    Oddometer:
    860
    Location:
    SW Washington
    I doubt if it will be critical if you went several thousand miles over before checking the valves. My dealer in Salem, OR said not to bother with the 600 mile check and that they should be OK to 12000 miles. I'd be surprised if anyone had to adjust the shims. I've had other bikes with Rotax engines and have yet to adjust the valves.
  15. run-it

    run-it Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2013
    Oddometer:
    44
    Location:
    LGB CA
    It sounds like you're saying the engine runs stronger or idles higher in the COLD / RICH position (at least for that days ambient temp) & the opposite in the HOT / LEAN position & you may be erroneously concluding the rich is too rich.

    Generally a TOO LEAN condition begins (at a given load & power setting) around peak RPM, lean up some more & RPM/power will fall off. This is what it sounds like to me you're describing.
  16. run-it

    run-it Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2013
    Oddometer:
    44
    Location:
    LGB CA
    No, it doesn't work like that, the target values are...

    18F / 10C offset when switched to HOT (adds less fuel to map)

    36F / 20C offset when switched to COLD (adds more fuel to map)

    It doesn't matter if your display is set to show C or F these devices work the same, ie add the same percentage of fuel to the open loop map.
  17. Nev..

    Nev.. wannabe advrider

    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2006
    Oddometer:
    257
    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
    I had a bit of a check of it today, switching the display between C and F and you're right, but its still not behaving as I expect. I got a thermometer and put the temp probe next to the Wuka plug temp probe. It measured 16C / 60F.
    With the switch set to hot the temp gauge on the dash showed 56F / 13.5C With the temp switch set to cold the dash display shows 22.5F / -5.0C. with the expected -18/-36 offset I would expect the results to be HOT 42F / 6C COLD 24F/-4C. The 18C diff between the Hot and Cold switch positions had me fooled.
    Might have to shoot an email off to the Mr HighTechCoonass.
  18. Northern TerraTory

    Northern TerraTory Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2013
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    Darwin,Northern Territory-The Top End of Australia
    Went for my first ride today (apart from to and from work, only about 5 kms).
    Before I went I opened the radiator cap and overflow cap and started it cold. Ran the bike for a while and it was bubbling constantly from the radiator, but also overflowing a fair bit. I let it run for a while, but stopped it before the fan kicked in, as I didn't want to lose any more coolant.

    During the ride I noticed if I stopped and left it idling, it the temp alarm would come on after about two minutes. The ambient temp was about 32C and a bit humid and the fan was kicking in as it should. As soon as I took off the temp would come down again.

    As I'm a noob and this is the stupid questions thread, is this the normal characteristics of the bike, or maybe there is still air in the radiator. Haven't had a chance to check the levels yet after I lost some coolant as it was dark by the time the bike cooled. Hope it doesn't run this hot, or I might have some problems in the wet season.

    I also have stalled it a couple of times in first, but not sure if its because its running lean or I'm a bad rider! :-) tend to think its the former as I'm not doing anything different. I think I might just but the Wuka anyway, have only heard good things.

    Other than that I friggen love this bike! But I need a windscreen!
  19. RidingDonkeys

    RidingDonkeys Purveyor of Awesome

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2009
    Oddometer:
    10,910
    Location:
    Moscow, Russia
    There is still air in the radiator. Wheen bleeding it, you have to let it run until the fans cut on. That is your signal that the fluid is circulating, thus allowing all the air out. You're going to loose some fluid as the bubbles pop, but you can always top it off when you are done. You'll need to let it run for about a minute or two once the fans kick on, but no longer than that.

    Also, it's not uncommon to have to do this a second time after a few hundred km.
  20. Northern TerraTory

    Northern TerraTory Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2013
    Oddometer:
    15
    Location:
    Darwin,Northern Territory-The Top End of Australia
    Ok, thanks for that RD. do you know what type of coolant is used or can I top it up with any brand?