Husqvarna TE-610 Owners Sign In Thread.

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by buffallodan, Aug 3, 2006.

  1. Rattletrap

    Rattletrap When in doubt-Gas it

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    I run the lights off relays I bought from "Eastern Beaver". It is some quality kit. I also ordered some waterproof connectors. My X2 didn't come with some of the parts I needed to wire straight up, so I had to do some splicing.
  2. 1 lunger

    1 lunger Long timer

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    Now I'm more confused. I thought you keep the battery and add the cap. What's the deal?
  3. shootis

    shootis Been here awhile

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    If I understood Brandon's video correctly, the pictured setup would get you up and running once you had a jump start.

    You would use this if your battery crapped out totally and needed to get back home.

    I also read that perhaps the setup would help filter the voltage going to the battery and provide it with a longer life.

    Hopefully he'll be along soon to verify this.

    This is quoted from one of his posts:

    It explains why the bike shuts down when there's no battery. And shows there's no crazy spikes in voltage as someone speculated. The bike can be more reliable with a simple capacitor added to the system, this shows it graphically. I believe it also may explain why they have so many batteries fail (Shitty charging method).
  4. K7MDL

    K7MDL 2015 Tiger 800XCx, Jeep Wrangler

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    So much discussion on the capacitor and much confusion. I used to design power supplies for a living. The results in the video are quite predictable and not a problem,. In fact quite normal.

    There are filtered and unfiltered charging systems. Most vehicles with alternators are unfiltered and use the very low internal resistance of the (good condition) battery as part of the component design for charging current and voltage output and the (good) battery provides the filtering. The alternator provides AC and rectifers (aka diodes) chop teh negative portion of the AC waveform to create a very rough DC voltage. A large enough capacitor can be of use to help filter the chopped AC waveform in the event a battery goes south. Maybe some devices in a system are sensitive to damage from an unfiltered waveform. For our bikes, that is specualtion still. For other bikes that do not require a battery to start and run (like the Carb'd TE450) all components are designed to run on poorly filtered DC power or have some minimal filtering added, or use a DC generator. The filtering is commonly a capacitor plugged into the wiring harness somewhere like under the seat. Some components on these bikes have filtering at the component where it matters. Light bulbs do not care about waveform They convert power to light and heat. Ignition systems do care as some parts of them need to be tightly voltage regulated.

    Filtered supplies are common in non-battery powered devices or and communication systems where ripple voltage may cause noise and affect their function. Think of AC whine in a home stereo system or 2-way radio. For small systems/devices an external supply contains the filters (capacitors, inductors, resistors in some combo) to lower the component count inside the smaller device profile (think wall warts connected to a small phone). AC to DC conversion power systems function by rectifying the AC voltage - meaning chopping off the negative side of the waveform. Filtered and unfiltered systems my be voltage regulated and/or current limited. Systems with relatively large batteries, or that use power line noise tolerant components may use a lightly or totally unfiltered power supply.

    The service manual shows the design of the TE610 voltage reglator (VR). It chops the 3 phase AC and combines all 3 phases to make rough DC. It regulates that voltage by controlling how much of the waveform is chopped. It has uppper and lower limits. For example, it cannot shut off completely and it requires a minimum load to maintain regulation. Too much load and the alternator cannot supply enough and the voltage droops. The VR makes little attempt to filter the voltage in an effort to contain the size of the unit and increase heat tolerance. Most capacitors do not like heat and they can be relatively large. I am sure cost savings count as well. The battery is close by and provides all the filtering needed -- as long as the battery is in decent condition.

    Summary:
    Large batteries can swamp the ripple or chopped waveforms such as seen on the oscilloscope when the battery was disconnected. When a battery goes south, it may no longer be able to filter the supply enough to satisfy all components in the system. It is possible the other devices in the system cannot tolerate the now unfiltered power. A capacitor can help filter the power in the event the battery fails to filter properly and help voltage senstive components get the relatively clean DC power they need to function correctly. There is very little downside to incorporating a large capacitor to your system, but it must be of sufficient voltage rating.

    Whether the TE610 can start up on power filtered by the capacitor alone requires calculation or experimentation (as some have done already). Some systems like the FIs need to draw a fair amount of DC power to get started, This is when push starting can help (if you can) since it can create longer duration power at higher RPM (vs. kick start) to get things charged up enough to function. Too much load can exceed the ability of the capacitor to filter it cleanly. The charging system design is quite common and is like most other designs out there for many years and does the job. It depends on the battery is all. So does your car.
  5. 1 lunger

    1 lunger Long timer

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    FYI- Look at this on eBay:

    TE / SM 610 Sub Frame 2006-2009

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=19680300

    or see it here.
  6. gunnr

    gunnr optimsm

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    Camas, not Washougal
    I recently bought the X2 Off road Halogen plug and play version. I haven't tried it at night on the road yet. I don't ride the roads much at night so wasn't worried about how bright it was. It's a good product.

    I also added a vapor speedometer to the cart when I ordered to replace the failed stocker. That is definitly not plug and play!!!
  7. Rattletrap

    Rattletrap When in doubt-Gas it

    Joined:
    May 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
    303
    Location:
    Heart of Dixie


    So in this picture you could add the cap as shown but with the battery and cap also connected together? If so, if the battery took a dump you could still bumpstart (or jump start) and run, or would you have to disconnect the battery completely and just run the cap? I'm not making any sense, I know but heres the scenario;

    A- Just battery (as from factory)
    B- Battery and Cap both connected? Run this combo on a daily basis till the battery craps out?
    C- No battery with just Cap
  8. 1 lunger

    1 lunger Long timer

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    Thank you! I get it now. What size cap. do you need you use?
  9. Flashman1

    Flashman1 Long timer

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    That was not my experience.
  10. shootis

    shootis Been here awhile

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  11. nomadb

    nomadb Been here awhile

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    Hello All,
    I have a strange case of headlights, I thought I will consult the common knowledge of fellow riders before I start dissasembling the bike.

    When I start the bike the headlights are off. When give it some gas (increase the rpm) they turn on and stya on.
    I guess this is a feture to save the batery juice ?

    When I start riding the headlight turns off by it self. this may happen during deceleration or running. If I switch to the highbeams, they stay on no matter what.

    Any idea why this would be? The bike is 2008 injectiion model with 3500km most of them off road.

    Regards
  12. 1 lunger

    1 lunger Long timer

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    That's not normal. You might have a bad wire or bulbs loose.
  13. K7MDL

    K7MDL 2015 Tiger 800XCx, Jeep Wrangler

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    I second that. Be sure to look at your handlebar switch for crud and tightness in around the internal contacts.
  14. mrkartoom

    mrkartoom Lurker Extraordinaire

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    I'll 3rd that.

    Clean and inspect all the headlight wiring connections. Before you do that see if you can simulate the problem by moving the connectors and harness around while the bike is running. You can probably isolate the problem and deal with it.

    Also, sometimes bulb filaments break and still lay on the post making contact and work. Ever tap a light bulb that goes out and see it come back on? Not likely, but a possibility.
  15. Noonen

    Noonen Adventurer

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    Location:
    Austin, TX
    Picked this up on Thursday. Hope to do some adventuring soon - though it will be a commuter for a while. 80+ miles round trip :huh


    Folder at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/80905357@N04/sets/72157631647173889/

    [​IMG]
    Untitled by pyonnone, on Flickr

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    Untitled by pyonnone, on Flickr

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    Untitled by pyonnone, on Flickr

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    Untitled by pyonnone, on Flickr

    My new 'gps' *:naughty

    [​IMG]
    Untitled by pyonnone, on Flickr

    I decided to add a sticker

    [​IMG]
    Untitled by pyonnone, on Flickr

    and this is after a 40 mile ride home in a minor downpour (very wet and a bit slippery - we bonded)

    [​IMG]
    Untitled by pyonnone, on Flickr
  16. poppy

    poppy Slow and Steady

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    As said above. I had a strobe for a headlight. Check the plug connection from the loom to the headlight. The pins seem to get loose inside the female connectors inside the plastic case. I pulled both the female and male connectors out of the plastic plug, tightened the females up, cleaned both then re connected without the the plastic case. Then just wrapped them in electrical tape. No more strobe and easy to sort on the road if need be.
  17. Tachedoutoffroad

    Tachedoutoffroad Mr. Parrish

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    Location:
    Alabama
    I found a 610TE I need.

    Somebody buy my SM QUICK !
  18. Hoseman

    Hoseman pushing rocks.....

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    Santa Fe, NM
    Does anybody know where you can get stock decals for an '06?

    Mine are looking pretty shabby and I would love to replace them.
  19. BrandonR

    BrandonR Been here awhile

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    Basically, yes. In the stock setup there's two wires from the bike to the negative post on the battery, I moved the smaller blue one to the frame (the bike won't run if it isn't grounded) I then wired the capacitor in such that the negative terminal is connected to the frame and the positive to the lug on the starter relay, then wrapped it up and stowed it under the computer so it's out of the way. In the event of a battery failure I would disconnect the negative cable from the battery terminal and tie it up to the frame. Leave the positive cable attached to the battery so you don't short anything out. Then jump start it as normal (positive to positive terminal negative to frame)
  20. fritzcoinc

    fritzcoinc Enjoying my last V8

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    Halls