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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by buffallodan, Aug 3, 2006.
What you can do is turn off the petcocks, remove the crossover tube from one of them and leave it attached at the other end.
Have that hose in one hand when you remove the quick disconnect that flows all the fuel, slap it on there as fast as possible.
You'll still lose a little bit of fuel but it's a quick and easy way to plug that fitting without getting a bath.
As far as popping off the fitting while riding, you are correct, you must not have seated it on the fitting 100%.
I've only had my tank off a half dozen times, but I had George at Uptite replace the fittings on my tank with brass ones, just as a precaution.
PS He's the one that suggested using the crossover fuel line to plug the fitting, too.
That's a good price for them. I paid something like $45 or more for a set a few years back from AF1Racing (Aprilia).
Brokemthe chain. Snapped off the plastic chain guard....
Is there a TE250 thread somewhere on this sight? If not general impressions of the TE250 vs WR250R.
Thanks for your help.
Sorry. That wouldn't by any chance have been the stock CZ chain that came on it was it?
Insanely pumped for the delivery of my "new" (to me) 2008 Husky 610te.. since it's non stop rain this time of year, and I'm still waiting for delivery, I'm spending too much time on-line "getting ready"... As such, I've come up w/ a few questions.
1. Does anyone have a link to a good service manual I can download?
2. The topic of stators, batteries, and so on has me curious as to if there is a brand of heated grips that works well but draws the least amount from the system?? (I have aftermarket dual HID's currently, but nothing else that's not OEM drawing current at the moment.) Living in the NW, we use heated grips... at least sissys like me do.. So it's one of the first mods I plan to make (thinking of taking it to Bills to get it done, as they seem to come really highly recommended)
3. See above, as I'd love to actually add a socket for a heated vest (ok, now you can really laugh at me)
4. tires.... I'll be needing to replace the front soon... anyone living in the mucky NW have a recommendation they care to share (I know this is uber personal, but I strongly believe the advice I get here is a million times better than what I'd get at a shop) I'll mostly spend my time in the West (where it's wet and muddy) but will also put on road miles and spend time on the East side (where it's a lot drier) so something that's a decent all around tire would be good I suspect.
5. Battery... another thing I'll need to replace soon, suggestions on makes/models that seem to perform best?
Lastly, I can't thank the people who spend the time to read all this and respond enough.. forums like this are absolutely wonderful, and for a novice like me a real life saver... thank you thank you thank you!!!
I prefer the Oxford heated grips, as I've found them to be the warmest. Your 08 has plenty of juice-making capabilities so don't worry about excessive amp draw. I also have a heated vest/battery tender outlet. I have an on-board voltage meter and running either my Warm-n-Safe or my Gerbings jacket, and the heated grips, I've never been even close to taxing the bike's output.
Having and riding with heated gear doesn't mean you're a sissy, it means you're out riding when everyone else has parked their bikes
Is there a brand of on-board voltage meter recommended? I've also been told if I'm going to add these to absoltuely get one (and to shut whatever down in the event it gets close to under 14v)
Again, thank you!
There are two voltage monitors I recommend. A Battery Bug and a Single LED voltmeter. The Battery Bug is awesome because it's also a load tester and will give you warning when your cheapass Husqvarna battery starts to fail. The single LED voltmeter is quite accurate and takes no space. You simply drill a 1/4" hole in the instrument cluster bracket and you're off!
Sorry, I don't have any pics of any of it on my TE610 from here at work, but here's a pic of the Battery bug on my F800 (on the left) and the single LED voltmeter (the red dot on the upper right):
Back to the heated grips... The Oxfords will automatically shut off when the voltage goes below something like 11.9 volts. I've never tested it. I always connect my grips via a key-actuated relay so they turn off when I turn off the key. Oh wait, I have tested it! At idle, my old Ural hack wouldn't put out over 12v at idle and I couldn't keep the heated grips on
I just put on a Baja Designs Squadron Headlight with dimmer. I had my local shop install it and hook it up to the high/low beam switch so it sort of acts like a DOT legal headlight. This thing is pretty darn bright, almost too bright to use on full power in traffic at night. When dimmed it does alright, and I like how it can be dimmed in 5% increments with the key fob.
But an annoying problem has developed, and I think it actually existed before I put on the new headlight. Ever since I switched out the clutch cable for a Motion Pro, the high beams flash on then off very guickly when I am up shifting. This doens't happen when down shifting. So when I am accelerating and going through the gears, when in low beam mode, the high beams come on for a split second each time I pull in the clutch and upshift.
I did reroute the clutch cable when I installed the Motion Pro and I'm wondering If I unwittingly put some stress on some wire somewhere under the headlight.
By the way, I bought it used and the top left warning light has always been on. I don't even know what that light represents.
Hate to be the bearer of bad news but the cases are machined as matched pairs. You can't buy one. $1,600 + a LOT of labor.
Better to buy a used motor.
From the rules:
We take this stuff seriously.
Do not post copyrighted material. Links to service manuals, illegal .mp3 downloads, etc. will be deleted, and you will be banned."
CA Stu, Thumpers mod
Your clutch lever is hitting the "flash to pass" switch on the front of the switch assembly...loosen the screws and roll it appropriately to avoid contact with the lever
I just got my JD tuner for my TE610 and have noticed the settings as received are different from the instructions.
Could somebody help out with some TE610 settings?
The current settings are:
Green/ Blue 5
I have the P/U kit and the LV x3 muffler.
I did a 190 mile ride with me on the TE610 and buddy riding my DR650 and we traded back and forth several times. We both felt that the 610 should have smoked the DR but they seemed about equal, the DR had more low end and the Husky edged it on top but not by much.
It certainly doesn't feel like a 20 hp/50 lbs lighter difference! My TE has the P/U and the LV x3 muffler.
Maybe I have to look into iBeat to make sure my TPS is set correctly,,
Are you looking for the JD Tuner stock settings?
I just installed the JDTuner and EHS pre-filter on my 2009 TE610, and have been messing with the settings to figure out what works best for me. Sadly, I've been trapped in Brooklyn, so I'm only messing around a little, because I need some trails and open road to really understand what it's capable of.
I did email JD at the address on his web site, and he responded to a few questions I had. Very helpful. That might be the best bet to help with your specific needs. I have read all the treads too - and it's tough to hone in on what might work best for your particular set-up and needs, without a little help from the man himself.
If only there was a way to easily search the whole internet for specific content...
Alright I'll try that. I hope I can still keep my clutch lever adjusted downward after the adjustment though.
It's good to keep an eye on download links but not every download is illegal!
The parts list of some Husqvarna bikes for example can be downloaded from the Husqvarna Germany homepage:
This is definitely legal!