Husqvarna TE-610 Owners Sign In Thread.

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by buffallodan, Aug 3, 2006.

  1. tlking6

    tlking6 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2008
    Oddometer:
    287
    Location:
    Lower Left Side
    Got in a little 4 day trip to Baja with my son after Christmas. The 610 is a worthy dual sport mount for Baja that I wouldnt trade for anything.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  2. Flashman1

    Flashman1 Long timer

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    May 30, 2006
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    5,361
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    Tucson
  3. duanew1

    duanew1 In my Pajama pants

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2008
    Oddometer:
    763
    Location:
    Huntsville, AL
    <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> Hello guys. I am joining the group. I just traded one of my street bikes for a 2006 TE610 with and extra set of sumo wheels, dirtbag setup, spare parts and almost an entire spare engine. Of course I have inherited the subframe issues.

    The exhaust mount seems to have been broken and repaired with a homemade metal bracket. The battery mount seems to have had metal added with screws to strengthen it. I will have to look at it closer later. The brake light did not work when I got it. I found a lot of dirt in the space behind the light. I cleaned the connections and put a thick layer of dielectric grease on them and got it working again. There is a chance I might change the whole light out in the future. The left mirror mount is broken. It should be an easy fix. One of the mounting points of the front left header cover is broken. I guess that I will have to have that welded. Is the exhaust pipe stainless?

    The main problem that I have found is that the subframe is broken on the left side on the extension that sticks out past the seat in the rear and holds the rear fender and rack. I guess that my only option is to take it apart and have it welded. Is that the best course of action? What should I have to tell the welder for the aluminum for the subframe?

    Thank you for any directions and ideas.
    <!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} </style> <![endif]-->
  4. Taranis

    Taranis Been here awhile

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    LBC, yo.
    It's a super-easy part to knock out if someone has access to a lathe. I did, so I did.
  5. 1 lunger

    1 lunger Long timer

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    Mar 27, 2011
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    1,380
    Location:
    Bloomfield CT
    [​IMG]
    I'm selling one!
  6. BiG DoM

    BiG DoM African Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2002
    Oddometer:
    2,501
    Location:
    South Africa
    Subframe failures with many enduro type bikes are common - this is a weight saving area and often they are only designed to hold the fender and maybe lights and plate. Many then fit a rack or extra gas tank and they FAIL. This is very common on the 610's and 630. When you have it repaired you must have it gusseted for extra strength. There is a very good thread on it on the Cafe Husky website (albeit for the 630) uit applies to 610 as well. This will also allow you to use a rack if you wish. If you simply weld the break the chances are good it will break again next to the existing break.
  7. BiG DoM

    BiG DoM African Adventurer

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    Oddometer:
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    Oh and check your battery cage while about it - also known to crack.
  8. duanew1

    duanew1 In my Pajama pants

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2008
    Oddometer:
    763
    Location:
    Huntsville, AL

    Thanks. Someone PM'ed me a link to the MotoIQ website where they did some repairs.

    http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/2363/pageid/4216/cad--cardboard-aided-design.aspx

    I am pretty much going to do something similar to what is on the above page. Below is where I am now. I hope the repair isn't too expensive.

    [​IMG]
  9. 1 lunger

    1 lunger Long timer

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    That should be an easy enough fix.
  10. motopreserve

    motopreserve Been here awhile

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    Jun 19, 2011
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    Brooklyn
    I just did the Moto IQ described fix for the clutch cable - making a collar for the ferrule. Great, easy fix. That couple with some cleaning and fresh dri-slide, and the clutch pull action is night and day.

    Very helpful tips.
  11. duanew1

    duanew1 In my Pajama pants

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    Dec 17, 2008
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    Huntsville, AL
    Yea that one place wouldn't be that bad to weld up, but i am planning on getting the area strengthened with some gussets. That is going to increase the price of repair by a large margin. It will be much better though when it is done.
  12. motopreserve

    motopreserve Been here awhile

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    If you buy the metal and cut the pieces yourself, the price really should not be that much more. It's not a ton more welding - based on what was on the Moto IQ site.
  13. duanew1

    duanew1 In my Pajama pants

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    Dec 17, 2008
    Oddometer:
    763
    Location:
    Huntsville, AL
    Yes that would help. I don't really have a workshop area or the access to the tools that I need where I live now. I might could do it but it would have to be done with hand tools.

    Does anyone happen to know what grade of aluminum I should be looking for or what the subframe is made of?
  14. xymotic

    xymotic Long timer

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    Federal Way, WA
    It's either low grade cheese or high end butter, not really sure :)
  15. BiG DoM

    BiG DoM African Adventurer

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    Looking at that fracture it may be worth bracing the break internally with rod or bar before the initial weld and the guzzeting. Always try and get the maximum span in the gusseting without it interferimg with plastic panels etc. The pic in the IQ link shows the lower gusset a bit short IMHO as was room to extend it some.
  16. Taranis

    Taranis Been here awhile

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    LBC, yo.
    The break above is through a solid forging, not a tube section.

    Go to an actual metal supply place or fleabay if you can't find one near you and get 6061-T6 or T-6511 (the latter is typical for extrusions). Most of them have a remnant section where you can get end cut pieces for a few bucks. Stay away from typical hardware store material, which is actually kinda like " low grade cheese or high end butter" in comparison. IMO, the 610's chassis isn't made from poor material, it just has lots of bad design details and some sloppy manufacturing here and there.

    You can make all those reinforcing bits with a bench vise, hack saw and some files. I've done a ton of that stuff that way. A power disc sander makes it go a lot faster. I guess a $10 Harbor Freight angle grinder and $4 of discs would speed things up, too.
  17. BiG DoM

    BiG DoM African Adventurer

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    Yeah looking at it again you right.
  18. duanew1

    duanew1 In my Pajama pants

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    Dec 17, 2008
    Oddometer:
    763
    Location:
    Huntsville, AL
    That is funny! You might be right. :lol3

    Yes. I think that the lower bracing section can be lengthened out much further into the tail fairly easily. I have not decided how I want to do the top section though. There is not much room with the plastics. I think that I will change the design from the MotoIQ site and make a thicker but shorter brace on top.

    Yes it is solid.

    I will probably go with onlinemetals.com. I have used them before and you can order exactly what you want. They have reasonable prices also. 6061-T6 is readily available but I have not seen T6511. I will probably end up cutting them some with a jigsaw and hand finishing. I am sure it will make the repair job cheaper.
  19. fatgut

    fatgut Been here awhile

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    Apr 8, 2010
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    706
    Location:
    Perth WA
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Did copy of this to my 610 after 10,000km of hard Aussie bush fully loaded no issues.
    Kev
  20. motopreserve

    motopreserve Been here awhile

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    Jun 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    128
    Location:
    Brooklyn
    We have ordered a ton of metals to the shop from these folks too, just as an option: http://www.mcmaster.com/#